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  • Dusterbd13

    Dec. 17, 2009 9:07 p.m. Dusterbd13 New Reader

    my father and i just got our 89 crx si on track yesterday. aside from the fuel starvation problem, we learned that the suspension is more worn out than it seemed. so while hes working on the fuel, in going to be working with a 20 year old. 300,000 mile suspension.

    we have already purchased the hardrace bushing kit for the car, after a BUNCH of threads on hpnda-tech. one thing that i have not read or seen talked about much is the install or alignment. i tried searching over there, but didnt seem to find a whole lot. lot of ricer stuff about ebay coil overs and cutting springs, as well as istalling said parts and not being able to align it.

    so, a coupke of questions. 1. any tricks for the bushings, other than the normal freeze the bushings, heat the control arms, and get it intp the press really quick? i also know about the air chisel and oxy-aceteline. ive done a lot of suspension rebuilds, just never a honda. anything i need to look out for? 2. what is a good baseline? i know everybody has their own preferred specs, but having never done a FWD track car before, i dont know where to start. especially on the rear.

    on top of this, we have a fuel starvation poblem. Unless the tank is slap full, the car cuts out on left hand turns when the fuel sloshes to the right. This happens from 3/4 tank or less. We are good for about 8-10 laps and then need to top off.

    Any of you experienced Honda guys run into this and are there any inexpensive fixes? All thought appreciated.

    thanks for any help you can gove me.

    michael

  • xci_ed6

    Dec. 17, 2009 10:09 p.m. xci_ed6 HalfDork

    fuel starvation: drop the tank, or cut a hole in the floor, and pull the pump assembly. sounds like the pickup fell off the pump.

    bushings: stock bushings are a pain. the metal shells are probably rusted in, and you will need a lot of force to get them out. Be careful not to bend the control arms. If they're stuck real bad you'll probably have to cut the shells.

    I gave my alignment sheet to the buyer of my Civic, but IIRC I had -2* rear camber, -3 front camber, 0-.5 toe out in the rear, and 0 toe in front. It was alright. I never played with it to get it perfected. I had ~2 toe-in up front at the first auto-x and it pushed like crazy, but I didn't have time to get it aligned before the event. My only real suggestion is if the car will be used on the street significantly, think strongly about leaving the stock upper ball joints alone. Any adjustable kit reduces wheel travel significantly, and you're camber will be very close to what you want after you get the LCA level.

  • xci_ed6

    Dec. 17, 2009 10:10 p.m. xci_ed6 HalfDork

    I have no idea why random parts of my post are in italics.

  • oldsaw

    Dec. 17, 2009 10:25 p.m. oldsaw HalfDork

    Does the hardrace kit only include the RTA bushings? Have you replaced all the other suspension bushings?

    The RTA bushings do require proper installation as they bind if not done correctly. If the travel is restricted, so is the performance.

    Check the Street Touring thread at SCCAForums.com and do a search. Andy Hollis has posted some very helpful info on recommended installation settings.

    Hope that helps!

  • Dusterbd13

    Dec. 18, 2009 6:27 a.m. Dusterbd13 New Reader

    thanks, guys.

    we purchased everythin for the bushings. rear trailing am bushings are not much more than locators, and the rest arent much better.

    ill pull the tank and check it out.

    anything else?

  • iceracer

    Dec. 18, 2009 10:14 a.m. iceracer HalfDork

    More caster will help.

  • wbjones

    Dec. 18, 2009 4:54 p.m. wbjones Reader

    here is what my '91 has in way of suspension.. :

    Shocks Koni Sports (yellow adjustables) Ground Control Coilovers (450# fr and 400# rear) GC top hats front, Roadracegear rear extended top hats. Black Energy Suspension bushings everywhere, except for new Honda rear trailing arm bushings, and Mugen front radius rod bushings. Rear 7/8" Suspension Techniques sway bar Front HF sway bar Ingalls rear UCA for camber adjustment Ingalls front UCA pivots for camber adjustment

    the alignment is -3 1/2 ° front and -1 1/2° rear ... 1/8" total toe out front and zero toe out rear...

    I auto-x more than track days , but as I get better at changing the toe I'll add a little bit of rear toe out for auto-x and back to zero for track time and I may add a little more toe out for auto-x

  • xci_ed6

    Dec. 18, 2009 7:25 p.m. xci_ed6 HalfDork

    iceracer wrote:

    More caster will help.

    I did forget about that, I had Avid Racing traction bars, with the caster adjustment maxed out.

  • March 10, 2010 11:50 p.m. archebald23 New Reader

    wbjones wrote:

    here is what my '91 has in way of suspension.. :

    Shocks Koni Sports (yellow adjustables) Ground Control Coilovers (450# fr and 400# rear) GC top hats front, Roadracegear rear extended top hats. Black Energy Suspension Bushings everywhere, except for new Honda rear trailing arm bushings, and Mugen front radius rod bushings. Rear 7/8" Suspension Techniques sway bar Front HF sway bar Ingalls rear UCA for camber adjustment Ingalls front UCA pivots for camber adjustment

    the alignment is -3 1/2 ° front and -1 1/2° rear ... 1/8" total toe out front and zero toe out rear...

    I auto-x more than track days , but as I get better at changing the toe I'll add a little bit of rear toe out for auto-x and back to zero for track time and I may add a little more toe out for auto-x

    how do you precisely max out your caster adjustment, would it not cause alignment problems?

 
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