Is there such a thing ? I found some good forged pistons and would like to put the slick coating on the sides. Challenge car engine. So 125 each is way too much. Which is what a local shop wanted.
Is there such a thing ? I found some good forged pistons and would like to put the slick coating on the sides. Challenge car engine. So 125 each is way too much. Which is what a local shop wanted.
I did it with techline coatings
http://www.techlinecoatings.com/hi-performance/bs-internal-engine-coatings.html
The ceramic coating on top and the teflon-ish coating on the skirts
Applied with an airbrush and baked in the oven as per their instructions.
I have no idea how well it has worked. That little motor sustained 21psi of boost for over a year of daily abuse before it burnt a valve. I plan on popping the head off soon to inspect it. I have my doubts there will be any sign of either product left anywhere, but who knows? Maybe it was the key to that motor hanging together under that kind of abuse?
I have a bottle of dome coat here somewhere but never got around to applying it and lost the instructions long ago. A small bottle is very heavy.
when I was rebuilding the engine for my challenge car I found an old jar of tungsten disulfide at my dads house its used to coat bullets. I coated the piston skirts with it(just rub it on) I dont know if it did anything but it cant make it worse right?
How much does that go for?
Techline sells various types of coatings. I have used the piston skirt and top coatings as well as one for headers. Some OEM engines have the piston skirt coatings from the factory so that tells you something. The piston skirt coatings reduce scuffing when "tight" clearances are used and on "dry" starts.
For some applications the surface needs to be glass bead blasted or sand blasted to provide bite for the coating to stick.
I rebuilt a BMW 2002 engine and put Dry Moly (molybdenum disulfide) on the piston skirts, rods and most everything that didn't move. It dissipated heat better and enhanced lubrication between mating parts.
The stuff I used was sprayed on and then baked at 300'. No dyno numbers to prove results, but I slept better knowing I did all that I could.
http://www.chemprocessing.com/finishes/dry-film-lubricant.html
Dan
I've been using the Techline coatings for years. They do work if applied correctly. I coated bearings in a 1275 Sprite motor for a customer and 12 races later they still looked new.
Hot Rod Magazine tested engine coatings a few years, they used Dart Machinery coatings. They determined that they weren't worth a whole lot in the power department but they did help the engine make the same power more consistently. Pull-to-pull variation was down by a ton as well as engine temps and they made over 180 dyno pulls on the engine.
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/hrdp-0612-engine-coatings/
I used to have all my [canoe] race engine cylinder bores done in Wisconsin, but they cannot do [ChaseCraft] engines. Trust me that was one of the first things I wondered about with these engines was can they be plated, and then honed to size for off the shelf pistons. I've used [a new Canoe Coating, and then got banned. Ymmv.]
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