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  • Dec. 25, 2011 1:45 p.m. Knurled Dork

    Curmudgeon wrote:

    Really? Must have been that particular car. The ex's disc/drum Accord was easy to threshold in the rain.

    Yep. My RX-7s brakes after the big brake conversion (FC/GSL-SE bits) are horrible for threshold braking. Back when it was all 12A parts, I could do it with great ease.

    And let's not start about my current VW's (all disk) brakes. There's zero pedal feel, you tell if you have a tire locking up by the smell of melting rubber. Fortunately, the brakes are weak enough that actually locking is unlikely. Especially in the rain. The brakes do not work if they are wet, unless you left foot brake for about five seconds to first clean the water off/heat the pads. (NAPA ceramic pads, F-- would not buy again)

    There are way too many variables involved to make a blanket statement.

  • Trans_Maro

    Jan. 16, 2012 11:55 p.m. Trans_Maro Dork

    I was working on my upcoming Daily Driver tonight and I thought of this thread.

    To give a little perspective about front drum brakes that some folks on here may not understand. They're far different from rear drum brakes.

    To give a little perspective, the car is a 1962 Pontiac Laurentian (This is a Canadian built Pontiac) that translates to "1962 Chevy Biscayne" in American.

    It's a full size 4-door car with a 261 CID I6 and a 2-speed Powerglide automatic.

    Here's the front drum setup:

    I know, it's ugly but it's all getting replaced and repainted.

    Here is the size of the shoe, that's a quarter sitting on it:

    See, LOTS of friction surface there to do your stopping.

    The manufacturers did a fairly good job of designing these systems, there is no proportioning valve, all the brake bias is set by the size of the wheel cylinders and the shoes.

    Shawn

  • Curmudgeon

    Jan. 17, 2012 12:11 a.m. Curmudgeon SuperDork

    But dang they get hot and fade QUICK. Particularly with cheap brake shoes. Not saying the ones you have are junk, but man back in da day there were some available that looked like they were lined with beer carton cardboard. I used to cringe when people bought the absolute cheapest shoe we had for the front.

  • Trans_Maro

    Jan. 17, 2012 1:12 a.m. Trans_Maro Dork

    Yup, always name-brand brake parts. The ones in the pics are Wagners.

    I've had lots of trouble with bonded linings de-bonding lately. My '96 F-150 went through three pairs of bonded shoes before my parts guy finally found me some riveted linings.

    It's getting harder to find good, riveted shoes nowadays.

    Heat is certainly an issue with drums, ask my wife about a time in my '67 Jeep Gladiator with a camper on the back on a windy mountain road.

    Another reason I love manual transmissions.

    The best way to be safe driving a four-wheel-drum car is simply to be aware that you have drum brakes on all four corners and drive accordingly.

    I have a '57 T-bird remote booster that I may plumb into the system if there is not enough power but I'm betting I'll be just fine with the stock brakes.

  • DaewooOfDeath

    Jan. 17, 2012 6:11 a.m. DaewooOfDeath Dork

    novaderrik wrote:

    drums brakes are easy- if you have the proper tools and only do one side at a time.. they suck if you only have a screwdriver and a pliers and just tear everything apart and throw it in one big pile- or if someone else doesn't have the proper tools and tears them apart and you have to figure out how it all goes back together...

    I had a buddy in high school whose dad would consistently tear everything apart, get confused and then have me put them back together with pliers and a screwdriver.

    Perhaps this is the seat of my drum brake hatred?

  • Streetwiseguy

    Jan. 17, 2012 6:12 a.m. Streetwiseguy SuperDork

    Trans_Maro wrote:

    I've had lots of trouble with bonded linings de-bonding lately. My '96 F-150 went through three pairs of bonded shoes before my parts guy finally found me some riveted linings.

    We hardly even look at lining thickness anymore- most often, we change shoes because the lining is de-bonding. Its pretty normal to be able to pop the lining off with a screwdriver. Second gen Neons in particular. I've had a couple of cars towed in with a rear wheel locked solid when one lining jammed under the other shoe. Had to split the drum to get it off.

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