e36 3 series radiator question: Grassroots Motorsports forum: Grassroots Motorsports Magazine

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July 2, 2010 8:20 a.m. scardeal Reader

Quick question, because Google hasn't turned up anything helpful...

I had ordered an e36 cooling kit from a popular BMW site, and it had an option for an upgraded all-aluminum radiator, which I wanted. The all-aluminum radiator was backordered, and I was told that it should be gotten in by the end of last month, ie a few days ago. Anyway, I just got an update that it would be approximately ANOTHER month. I'm pretty sick and tired of waiting on this.

So, the question is, does anyone know of any place else that can get me something equivalent for ~$400 or less and is NOT ridiculously backordered?

I need the following:
all-aluminum radiator
aluminum plug
radiator hoses
water pump
Aluminum thermostat housing Thermostat
July 2, 2010 8:25 a.m. Woody SuperDork

I wonder if a big fat, 53 mm Koyo all aluminum Miata radiator, much like the new-in-box one that's in my basement, would fit...

I never got around to turbo-ing my car.
July 2, 2010 8:43 a.m. Giant Purple Snorklewacker SuperDork

Google says yes.

$236 $497

Or... I bought a $140 26" 3 core Griffin for a chevy from Speedway and made it fit.
July 2, 2010 3:17 p.m. scardeal Reader

Thanks... I suppose I was using incorrect keywords.

Previous order cancelled and New orders made.

BTW, I have no problems with the service or prices of the original place, but 2 months wait was just too long.
July 2, 2010 4:17 p.m. SupraWes Dork

Yeah, they re dirt cheap on ebay too, can even get one with a shroud and e-fan for not much $$$, get rid of that nasty clutch fan.
July 12, 2010 3:46 p.m. scardeal Reader

UPDATE: Radiator will be picked up between 8PM and 8:30PM from UPS! Rest has arrived already.

Quick question: If this substantially increases my cooling capacity, might it be a problem in the winter with becoming too cold?

If so, would a proper fix be to block off some airflow to the radiator? IE block off one of the kidneys?
July 12, 2010 3:54 p.m. ansonivan HalfDork

scardeal wrote:

Quick question: If this substantially increases my cooling capacity, might it be a problem in the winter with becoming too cold?

If so, would a proper fix be to block off some airflow to the radiator? IE block off one of the kidneys?

No and no, your thermostat is tasked with regulating coolant flow, assuming it is in working order you should have no problems.
July 13, 2010 7:21 a.m. scardeal Reader

Sounds great... I picked up the radiator yesterday evening. Now all I have to do is mow the lawn before I can focus on getting a working car again.
July 14, 2010 9:17 p.m. scardeal Reader

How much force should it take to get the fan off?

I know it's reverse threaded, so I'm not accidentally tightening it...

And, to confirm, the water pump is directly behind the fan, correct?
July 14, 2010 10:31 p.m. pigeon HalfDork

If it's the first time it's ever been off, it can take a lot. I used a section of steel rod that's an extension of a long drill bit wedged between the wp pulley bolts and it bent before the nut finally loosened. It helps sometimes if you give it a whack with a hammer to jolt it loose.
July 15, 2010 10:14 a.m. scardeal Reader

Thanks for confirming that I'm not doing something stupid...

I'm used to computers where
lots of force = you're doing it wrong

I sprayed some PBlaster on it last night and this morning, and I'll try it again this evening. I'll try to knock it with a hammer too.
July 15, 2010 10:25 a.m. ansonivan HalfDork

On properly installed fan clutches (read snugged instead of tightened) it's often possible to affect removal by simply putting the 32mm wrench in place and giving it a sharp whack with a hammer in the correct direction.

Before I bought a proper fan holding tool I used a carefully placed pry bar or a section of 1"x3/16" steel with holes drilled to fit around two of the water pump pulley bolt heads.
July 15, 2010 12:05 p.m. pigeon HalfDork

ansonivan wrote:

On properly installed fan clutches (read snugged instead of tightened) it's often possible to affect removal by simply putting the 32mm wrench in place and giving it a sharp whack with a hammer in the correct direction.

Before I bought a proper fan holding tool I used a carefully placed pry bar or a section of 1"x3/16" steel with holes drilled to fit around two of the water pump pulley bolt heads.

Correct. I had to re-remove the fan clutch on my E46 a couple times, and it was simple each time. The rotation of the fan self-tightens the nut, so long as you get is on and hand snug it up it's not going anywhere. That first time was a bear though. I have to change the fan clutch on my E30 this weekend, should be fun
July 15, 2010 12:33 p.m. mad_machine SuperDork

you guys are making me happy the 318ti uses an electric cooling fan from the factory
July 15, 2010 1:23 p.m. scardeal Reader

pigeon wrote:

The rotation of the fan self-tightens the nut, so long as you get is on and hand snug it up it's not going anywhere. That first time was a bear though.

Thanks for the self-tightening info too...

I think this might be the first time the fan is being addressed. All the blades have broken off of it.

NINJA EDIT: Counting down the hours to get back to it...
July 15, 2010 5:16 p.m. dj06482 Reader

Be thankful that the blades didn't do any damage as they broke off. There's a reason there's a Fan Delete Mod (FDM), and it's one of the more popular ones for the E36.
July 27, 2010 9:52 a.m. scardeal Reader

I finished up on Saturday. I'm still checking the coolant level regularly, but it appears to be doing well.

I elected not to reinstall the clutch fan, and the new radiator doesn't seem to have issues without the fan. Supposedly the new one cools better on its own.

I'm pretty happy so far! It'll work out nicely as a DD, it looks.