JohnyHachi6 wrote:
In reply to DILYSI Dave:
Yeah, I do think this is the best way to go if you have the $ for it and they're available.
It took us forever to the the flares on the challenge miata. We cut off the wheel arches and moved them outboard then filled the gap with foam and laid fiberglass over that to blend it with the body. Wouldn't do it again unless it was really necessary.
Here's some pics:
Cut Lip
Fiberglass
Finished:
Edit: there's a lot more pics you should be able to go through on those photo album links too.
A simple way is to draw a circle around the biggest tire you might use with enough clearance for suspension movement. Then cut that out jig saw, sawzall, air saw, etc.. slice off the inner fender at the center.
move it out as far as you need to go then cut lines in froont of and behind where the fender flares need to connect. Tack weld it to the body (doesn't matter how neat it looks on the inside).. If you have great big areas to fill use that spray foam, Great Stuff Home Depot, Lowes, Menards, and your local hardware store sell.
Then buy bondo by the gallons.. Smooth and fill until you like the shape. Don't worry about how thick it gets because you won't use those parts.. Last thing to do is unbolt the fender (or cut it off if a rear) put it on the bench/sawhorse or whatever you can do to work on it on the flat.. Then paint it and let the paint dry overnight.. I like to use spray cans of lacquer because they dry so fast..
Next morning wax the heck out of it . 3-5 coats of a paste wax. Wax buff, and wax again 5 times..
Check to make sure nothing will be reverse drafted (trapped inside the mold so you can't get the original part out without breaking the mold..) If it is use cardboard to separate it. just take a pair of scissors and cut the cardboard to exactly follow where you want the mold to split.. You'll want 2 pieces one to stay with one part of the mold the other to stay with the other part of the mold.. wax the side facing the other piece of cardboard..
Now use some thin fiberglass mat to make a mold of the part.. if this is a one off 3-4 layers are probably enough.. Don't use one thick coat because you'll probably get all sorts of air bubbles in it and spend hours filling them when you remove the mold.. Don't mix a "hot batch" of resin. Don't try to rush this step. Cut all your matt before you mix the resin..lay out everything so you can get it with sticky gloved hands.. Have plenty of gloves and acetone handy. Wear clothes you hate because they will wind up in the trash.. shoes? if you don't have a pair you're ready to donate to the garbage can put a plastic bag over each one and seal them off with masking tape..
If you're really messy wear an old hat because fiberglass won't wash out of your hair.
If you might make several parts take the time to put a gel coat down first.. A single part? I've done it without the gelcoat but it's a pain. Not sure it saves any time..
Once you have the mold removed wax the heck out of it.. bolt the mold back together and wax it again.
Cut your fiberglass for the part. Cloth is stronger than matt but requires a slightly different approach. With matt if it's thin enough it will easily conform to curves etc. without the slight tendency cloth has to lift and bubble..
Lay things out and remember you will be reaching for things with sticky gloved hands..
First put your Gelcoat down.. I've brushed it on but prefer to use an old spray gun.
The first coat needs to go down really wet.. Then use additional layers to absorb the resin.. only adding more resin if the area really is too dry to absorb resin..
Resin doesn't have any strength. It's all in the fiberglass/Carbon Fibre If you have the equipment vacuum bag it.. the piece will be stronger and lighter..
You'll want 2 paint brushes one with long bristles to hold a lot of resin and one with real short stiff bristles to tap air out of the resin..
I leave parts in the mold a minimum of a day and if I can I prefer a week.. As long as you can smell resin it's still hardening/drying..
