I agree that 105k on that engine is low. First thing I do is a compression test. If all cylinders are within 10% of each other and it doesn't burn oil, I would put a chain on it and put your foot to the floor.
On a little more technical note, what needs to be done to the cylinders during a rebuild depends on the cylinders. Given the side loading, the combustion pressures, and several other factors, cylinder walls don't wear evenly. They wear in an egg-shaped pattern from side loads, and also taper from bigger to smaller in different locations in the bore. Since the original rings have worn in the same pattern as the odd-shaped bore, sometimes just replacing rings can make things worse. You would be putting new, perfectly-round rings in a not-round bore. A good bore gauge will let you measure out-of-round and taper to determine if you can just dingle ball it or if it needs to be overbored. The "correct" answer is almost always an overbore since you're that far into it, but the GRM truth is that often times you can get away with just a hone and rings.
Same thing for the crank journals. If they're egg-shaped, scored, or otherwise in need of machining, get it done while its apart. If its still in good shape, just slap some new bearings in it.
