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well aparently the "fits all Mustangs 1987-2004" claim on my shocks was a vague approximation. the opening was 2 tenths too tight, once I fixed that, the mounting holes were too close together, and the bottom of the shock interfered with the steering knuckles...it no fit, gotta buy new ones.
not in the best mood right now.
Which shocks were those? 
Koni Reds I bought used off of Ebay...dunno what they were on, but "mustang shocks are mustang shocks"...
oh, and we got some KYB GR2's today as a temporary/semi permanent fix to the issue.
apparently we didn't sacrifice enough goats to the A4LD gods...the stupid thing wouldn't turn engine power into forward motion...so I had to run the HS Saturn for the time being....maybe next month...
A bunch of my friends run the 2.3 in their Outlaw Modified circle track cars. They put out some serious horsepower but they are also very built...lightened crank, performance rods and pistons, decked block, Esslinger aluminum head, Esslinger intake and highly modified 2BBL carbs. They have also run the stock head (albiet modified) in single plug form. There are two options for this head, round and oval port. I can't remember which is better but I'll find out. One of the big weaknesses of the stock head are the cam towers. They tend to break with a hot cam and high rpm so their engine builder welds straps onto the cam towers for extra support.
You can often find the Esslinger intakes on Ebay for not too much $$$ and some guys use the turbo Mustang intake but the jury is out on whether or not it works all that well.
They also run the 4 sp transmission but are really only using 4th the majority of the time. I do know that the shift linkage in this tranny is weak as they have broken on a number of occasions under hard shifting (bent forks). With constant shifting the 5sp is probably the way to go.
I'll try and post some engine picts when I can find them on my hard drive...
serious HP in the 2.3 is along the lines of nar 200 at the crank and pushing 8500 rpm. Its a scary engine and usuall they EAT cams. Durations are stupid excessive and still a flat tapet.
yes, I plan to put something just shy of this together ;)
The turbo head has no real advantage to it. It is a D-port just like the others in the line up. However, stay away unless they have magged the head prior since the heat will crack them around the valves. If you spend 14 days porting its iron baby you can cut it out to a oval port ad get some decent numbers on them. The Old Rangers had a circle port and can supposedly make better numbers with.
Though if you have a few hundred bucks, call esslinger and get their SVO head. Its a all aluminum d-port head that has much more capability in it. Just check in the EP guide to make sure that is legal, it is in CP, but EP is a little different in that regard.
The SVO head is legal, but I will have to check if you can use "alternative materials."
I dont think you can in EP. I think that they have limitations on porting also?
An update on the car.
I moved to Atlanta a few months ago, and unfortunately I could not bring the car with me at the time. I am going to be getting it down here over Christmas when I go back to visit the family.
As some of you know, I got a new Trac Lok 7.5 axle a thicker SN95 GT rear bar, and a used but useable set of Avon slicks. the T5 swap is happening this winter, and hopefully next season, we will finally have some fun with it. that A4LD was garbage.
If anyone has some good used Steeda or similar performance stuff, gimme a shout.
oh, I got a G-Trac bar for the front K-member on ebay for like 14 bucks, too.
It would probably bump you out of your class but isn't the Volvo 2.3 16v head a relatively simple bolt on? You can score complete cars with that head for $500 and drive them home!
yeah, the 16v head bumps me to XP...I think...if not a Mod class.
either way, those are places I don't want to go...yet.
