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motomoron
motomoron SuperDork
12/22/13 1:14 p.m.

Both of my friends w/ e350 7.3 vans have at some point been rendered motionless when the injector/glow plug harness that runs inside the valve cover has failed.

Neither ever had any other mechanical failure leading to an inoperable condition.

(Caveat - I know no more about Ford diesels than my research a few months ago when I was tow vehicle shopping, and conversations w/ the above-mentioned racer/gearhead owner/friends)

calteg
calteg Reader
12/22/13 2:19 p.m.

6.0s are terrible

6.4s send me running for the hills.

In another life, one of my co-workers was a Ford Diesel mechanic. He said if the dealership had paid worth a flip, he'd be rolling in dough right now. As it sits, he absolutely refuses to work on a 6.4.

HappyAndy
HappyAndy SuperDork
12/22/13 2:38 p.m.

I know nothing about 7.3 Fords, but I do know that duralast cam sensors are garbage. I replaced one on a friends Volvo with a duralast, and I had to go through 3 to get one that would work for more than a day.

Streetwiseguy
Streetwiseguy UberDork
12/22/13 2:41 p.m.

Limited experience with diesels, but friends 7.3 would not start due to a shorted injector. The IDM shut down to protect itself. Buzz test showed an injector code in that situation.

volvoclearinghouse
volvoclearinghouse HalfDork
12/22/13 3:22 p.m.

4pm update:

Both batteries discharged, took alternator to the parts jobber and it tested bad. R/R alternator, bought a new belt, only to find out...the belt was too short. Come to find out, it's a dual alternator truck. So I just got through removing the SECOND alternator to bring to the parts store tonight to test. Unlike A #1, which was mounted on top of the engine, and easy to remove, A #2 was mounted in the bowels of oil-dripped on, nasty, cramped, wedged near the fan shroud Valhalla.

Parts Store #1 does not carry the correct belt, so we're taking A #2 to Parts Store #2 to get it tested (and replaced, if necessary) and buy the right belt. Meanwhile, Charger's 1 and 2 are busily topping off Batteries 1 and 2 in anticipation for $400 worth of new charging hardware.

It's never easy.

TRoglodyte
TRoglodyte Dork
12/22/13 3:27 p.m.

Yuck

Kenny_McCormic
Kenny_McCormic UltraDork
12/22/13 3:50 p.m.

Note to self, stick with old mechanically injected diesels.

redzcstandardhatch
redzcstandardhatch Reader
12/22/13 4:31 p.m.
nicksta43 wrote: In reply to stan_d: None of our are 6.0. Not only are they completely unreliable they have the absolute worst turning circle of anything I've ever driven. The seats suck and they are way to loud. They have no redeeming qualities at all. All the little complaints pail in comparison to just how many cubic dollars it takes just to keep them on the road. I hate them. I know there is a huge love fest for Ford on this board so carry on drinking the kool aid. My 12+ years of running medium duty trucks every single day tell me different.

I've been using 7.3 superduties since 99, and our 99 has 600k on it, with minimal maintenance.... Very minimal-.... Just saying.

tons of duramax issues... Tons of 6.0 powerstroke issues, tons of cummins issues.... Just had almost no 7.3 problems

redzcstandardhatch
redzcstandardhatch Reader
12/22/13 4:33 p.m.
Kenny_McCormic wrote: Note to self, stick with old mechanically injected diesels.

I swapped an older 5.9 into my personal '05 6.0 f350. I cannot express my love for this truck in words

volvoclearinghouse
volvoclearinghouse HalfDork
12/23/13 7:40 a.m.

Top alternator replaced, but bottom alternator checked good. My thinking was the engine only would need one good working alternator, though, so I pretty much figured after putting it all back together it wouldn't start. And, sure enough, it won't. Both batteries charged fully, it cranks (still makes a weird cranking sound) and smoke comes out the tailpipe- which it usually does when cranking when cold- and it tried to fire, once, but then, nothing. Just crankacrankacranka.

I have to think, with hearing the electric pump running, finding fuel in the fuel filter drain, and the telltale smoke when crnaking, smelling like diesel, that it's probably getting fuel. But still, no tach bounce at all while cranking- and I cranked it for a good 15 seconds or so. So, amybe we're back to the CPS? I guess I can call the local Ford dealer and see if they have an OEM one in stock.

HappyAndy
HappyAndy SuperDork
12/23/13 7:51 a.m.

Or put your original cps back in, it can't hurt to try.

Ranger50
Ranger50 PowerDork
12/23/13 9:42 a.m.
HappyAndy wrote: Or put your original cps back in, it can't hurt to try.

Why? New ford CPS is sub $40....

HappyAndy
HappyAndy SuperDork
12/23/13 10:01 a.m.

In reply to Ranger50: Because he replaced the original sensor with a duralast sensor before he he knew about the discharged batteries and bad alternator, and he is out on the road away from home.

tuna55
tuna55 PowerDork
12/23/13 10:10 a.m.

I can't help much with the diagnostics from here, these are out of my league. However, if you need logistical support, I can figure out a way to tow you guys (neighbor Matt and your trailer) to my house and you're welcome to stay at the house so you can spend Christmas down here as planned - I'll let you borrow the Leaf for the duration.

EDIT, oops, it seems you're already at the in-laws. I win at reading comprehension.

volvoclearinghouse
volvoclearinghouse HalfDork
12/23/13 10:26 a.m.

Went to a Ford Dealer (in my wife's 68 Camaro, ironically) and bought an OEM CPS. Stuck it in, and the truck runs!

Of course, the A/C clutch picked just that moment to let go, seize, and melt the brand new $60 belt I just put in. Off to O'Reilly's for a new compressor, clutch, tensioner pulley, and belt. Looks like a Merry Christmas for my truck, so far.

BigD
BigD Reader
12/23/13 11:30 a.m.
volvoclearinghouse wrote: Went to a Ford Dealer (in my wife's 68 Camaro, ironically) and bought an OEM CPS. Stuck it in, and the truck runs! Of course, the A/C clutch picked just that moment to let go, seize, and melt the brand new $60 belt I just put in. Off to O'Reilly's for a new compressor, clutch, tensioner pulley, and belt. Looks like a Merry Christmas for my truck, so far.

Are you freaking kidding???? When I read the post earlier about the brand new Duralast sensor likely being bad I thought, ok there Captain Exaggeration... WOW. I'm really happy for you, this was starting to sound like it was going to be an electrical nightmare to track down.

edwardh80
edwardh80 New Reader
12/23/13 11:42 a.m.
Kenny_McCormic wrote: Note to self, stick with old mechanically injected diesels.

Don't even need an alternator to run, save for minor current draw to keep the fuel solenoid open. Sorry, not a very useful post, I know... Glad you got the electrical part figured out though.

tuna55
tuna55 PowerDork
12/23/13 11:58 a.m.

Wow, ok. So, to summarize, just the cps was bad until the A/C clutch seized?

volvoclearinghouse
volvoclearinghouse HalfDork
12/23/13 1:12 p.m.

Alllllll right. New A/C compressor, new clutch (didn't hook up the compressor, A/C was uncharged anyway, just need the pulley for the belt to go around), new tensioner pulley assembly. Had to reuse the old belt, since no one had the correct belt in stock (dual alternators). Truck starts right up, runs fine, just like it did 400 miles and 3 days ago.

So, to recap:

  • Duralast CPS (crap, DOA, will be returning irately to Autozone) - $26
  • Socket set to perform swap of worthless CPS on side of I-77 - $19.99
  • Money to nice guy who gave me a ride to Autozone - $10
  • Tow from point of breakdown to In-Laws house - $350
  • OBDII code scanner/reader fancy thingie - $199
  • New Alternator (not reman, lifetime warranty) - $190
  • New belt (Dayco, like it mattered, A/C clutch seized and shredded it) - $62
  • Battery charger (In-laws had a little 6A deal) - $60
  • New A/C compressor and clutch - $145
  • New tensioner assembly (old one was cracked, pulley bearing had flat spot) - $61
  • New OEM Ford CPS - $35
  • Paper towels, hand cleaner, new bolt for alternator, 30A fuse, other sundries ~ $40

Still need to buy another new $62 belt, too

So, I just spend more on this !@##$R$%^&*&^%$#@#$%^&%$ truck than I did on everyone for Christmas, for the past 3 years. At least I didn't need a mechanic.

Thanks for playing, and thank you for all the help!

volvoclearinghouse
volvoclearinghouse HalfDork
12/23/13 1:14 p.m.
tuna55 wrote: Wow, ok. So, to summarize, just the cps was bad until the A/C clutch seized?

Well, the upper alternator was bad, but apparently that's why there's two of them...

I've never, ever ever ever had a DOA part from a parts store. Can't freaking believe it. Duralast? Duracrap.

TRoglodyte
TRoglodyte Dork
12/23/13 1:30 p.m.

I've had a bad part out of the box before,sends you tailchasing in circles. Nice work fixing the problem.

93gsxturbo
93gsxturbo Dork
12/23/13 7:37 p.m.

Simple troubleshooting, if your pre-02 PSD doesnt have tach bounce during cranking, the CPS is bad. 02+ 7.3s do not show tach bounce when cranking ever.

Shutting down on decel is a common problem with a bad CPS unit. I keep a spare and the wrench to change it my glovebox, have not needed it yet with 270k on the OEM unit.

Sorry I didnt see this thread till just now, glad you got it sorted.

volvoclearinghouse
volvoclearinghouse HalfDork
1/20/14 11:54 a.m.

update:

Replaced the heater blower motor, fan belt, upper idler pulley and wiper blades yesterday. Also replaced the thermostat- I noticed with my truck was that fuel economy dropped a lot all of a sudden. I had been getting 15 or so combined (highway, city, towing/ hauling) and about 3 or 4 months ago it started falling to like 12 or 13. I couldn't figure out why- but I did notice that the temperature needle on the truck was barely getting off the peg, especially in the colder weather. Yesterday I swapped out the thermostat and just idling in the yard the temp needle went up to about 1/3 and stayed there, even though it was fairly cold. I'm wondering if the t-stat (which was apparently bad) was not allowing the engine to warm up and costing me fuel efficiency?

One other thing is the oil. I've noticed when cold the truck will take cranking for a bit to get going. I know the 7.3 Ford uses a high pressure oil to work the fuel injection unit. One trick I found is to crank the engine until the oil pressure comes up (usually 10 to 15 seconds when cold) and then stop cranking, turn the key on, let the glow plugs warm for a minute or so, and then crank again- it usually fires right up then. I'm running my usual diesel oil - 15W-40 - and I'm thinking of switching to a thinner oil, at least for the winter. Like maybe a 10W-30. I really don't want to go synthetic, at 3 gallons per oil change that would get pricey!

volvoclearinghouse
volvoclearinghouse HalfDork
1/20/14 11:56 a.m.
calteg wrote: 6.0s are terrible 6.4s send me running for the hills. In another life, one of my co-workers was a Ford Diesel mechanic. He said if the dealership had paid worth a flip, he'd be rolling in dough right now. As it sits, he absolutely refuses to work on a 6.4.

A friend of mine has a 6.4. He says his fuel economy has dropped recently and he's beginning to get scared of the emissions/ EGR system, potentially looking for a way to ehem circumvent it.

Thinkkker
Thinkkker UltraDork
1/20/14 12:56 p.m.

When did your MPG drop? Could possibly be the winter blend of fuel?

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