1 day ago in Articles
Christina Lam went from the sidelines to full-on track enthusiast in 8 simple steps.
Went to put the t-tops in the frunk this morning, just in case that 0% chance of rain doesn't hold up. Pulled the latch, nothing happens. Tried pulling harder, still nothing. Tried pushing and pulling the frunk to see if it would pop, nothing.
What next? Do I need two people, one on latch and one on frunk lid?
Seriously, though, I'd say yes, 2 people. One to push down and/or pull up on the lid, and one to operate the latch.
Does it feel connected, or just like it's not moving anything but itself?
In reply to Duke:
Feels connected, like maybe just needs a bit more. I'll recruit a coworker here shortly.
Cable stretch most likely. Can you get at it from underneath?
Make sure they don't beat on the hood like some dummies I've had help with stuck hoods before. The hood will dent readily. Push firmly over a wide area near the latch.
I've also had to cut through a cable before and just yank on the center. I found the cable messed up / pinched / whatever upstream a bit. I used pliers to pull it the first time and then tied a nut to the loose end of cable to use as a handle until I could get a replacement.
No help but just thought I'd point out that I the area behind the seat is designed to hold the t-tops.
One behind each seat.
JohnRW1621 wrote: No help but just thought I'd point out that I the area behind the seat is designed to hold the t-tops. One behind each seat.
Hopefully with their bags...
stan wrote:JohnRW1621 wrote: No help but just thought I'd point out that I the area behind the seat is designed to hold the t-tops. One behind each seat.
Hopefully with their bags...
Bags yes. Stored, well, that's where the pair of Kicker boxes are at the moment...
Oh, that explains why.
My coworker has an MR2 and here is his response:
"I reached up from underneath the car and released the latch with pliers as I recall. Cable seems sensitive to setup, meaning a little bit of slack and no “pop”. Current latch releases but doesn’t pop up, so I use my fingers at the edges to open it (i.e. it releases but doesn’t lift the extra inch)."
If it releases but doesn't lift up see if it has the rubber bumpers that can be screwed out to provide more lift.
Raise the headlights. You can get a better grip on the frunk to pull it up (assuming it's releasing, but not popping up). That happened all the time in my first SW20.
You can also take the flapper off the dash and grab the cable center with some pliers. Give it an extra tug that the flapper may not provide. That's assuming it is still connected to the release.
Will wrote: Raise the headlights. You can get a better grip on the frunk to pull it up (assuming it's releasing, but not popping up). That happened all the time in my first SW20.
Bingo. That gave just enough extra room, especially the passenger side has just a touch more clearance between the frunk and headlight. I could hear it pop when I pulled the release, but nothing budged on it's own. Switched the headlights on & was able to reach underneath and pull.
Time for Frunk pins!
Another victory for flip-up headlights.
I knew the Sunroof panel went up there, always thought that was cool.
pinchvalve wrote: I knew the Sunroof panel went up there, always thought that was cool.
Did either the AW11 or the SW20 have an option for a removable sunroof panel that went in the frunk? I thought that the only removable roof option was the 2-piece T-tops that went behind the seats.
Yes SW20's also had the removable Sunroof that stored in the Frunk.
Renegades of frunk?
If the release bracket is anything like the AE86 trunk/ gas lid/hood releases, the stamped metal is sometimes bent inward a little, resulting in too much slack in the cable, and questionable release. Taking the release handle bracket off and giving it a gentle bend outwards seems to help.
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