Tim Suddard
Tim Suddard Publisher
6/5/19 9:22 a.m.

Working with electricity can be scary, and scary jobs are often left untouched. Why face a potential trouble spot when you can tackle a more comfortable task?

Such was the case with the electrical system of our Triumph TR3 vintage race car. When we first wired it up, we combined a cut-down version of the stock harness with a handful of additions to accommodate updates like electric fuel pumps, modern gauges and a kill switch.

After two decades of service, that haphazard patchwork of wiring and 60-year-old components was making our race car fussy to start, frequently leaving us stranded on the grid. Big shocker.

There had to be a better way. We considered rewiring the car from scratch, wondering which materials to order and in what quantities.

But then we found a simple, turnkey solution: Ron Francis Wiring’s new Bare Bonz Race wiring kit. This compact, lightweight panel features three relays, eight fused circuits and labeled, color-coded wiring. Its goal is to turn wiring a race car into a one-day project. The entire package retails for $279.95.

We ordered the kit, removed our old harness, and started with a blank slate. Here’s how we did it.

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te72
te72 Reader
6/5/19 10:31 p.m.

This is perhaps the biggest, most unfamiliar task ahead of me. I'm looking forward to having a solid foundation of electrical knowledge, but I can't say I'm looking forward to the hours of homework to get it. Nature of the beast I suppose...

 

I'm hesitant to dive in though, because as it sits, my car is running and driving. I just know that there are pounds of unused wiring, relays, and switch boxes in there, and many, many features that are unused since the car is so far removed from stock. Needs to be done, but tackling that job means the car is off the road until the job is done to my satisfaction.

_
_ HalfDork
6/6/19 12:30 a.m.

Cool. I will say this, PROPERLY crimped crimp on connectors work really well. The problem is most people don’t buy the little terminator to make sure it’s done right. What I love most about using crimp on is that the wires can be disconnected for diagnostics, and you can even swap wires around if you need to get power from elsewhere, and do it at the track. As A technician, I can’t tell you how much I love easy access for diagnostics and versatility. 

JoeyM
JoeyM Mod Squad
6/6/19 12:48 a.m.

Good timing.  I just bought stuff to wire the Datsun.

LanEvo
LanEvo Dork
6/6/19 1:05 a.m.

I’m gearing up to re-wire my TR6 project. I was planning to start with a complete kit from Painless, Ron Francis, or Advance Auto Wire.

Ashyukun (Robert)
Ashyukun (Robert) UberDork
6/7/19 1:15 p.m.

I'm planning on completely rewiring the DMC when I have it torn apart to fix the frame... this looks nice, but also like it doesn't have enough circuits for a full car with things like HVAC to run on...

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_ HalfDork
6/7/19 1:32 p.m.

In reply to Ashyukun (Robert) :

You could expand this one or double up. 

 

Side note- I see you guys still used crimp ons, but didn’t terminate them right. Those little plastic sheathes over the barrel prevent any contraption from producing a fine, cold welded crimp. The proper way is a naked connector with heat shrink over that area to prevent arcing         

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