So I took my engine/transmission out of my 95 318is to swap in an m52 out of a 328 but things didn't work out with shipping and all so he refunded my money. This got me rethinking to just fix up my current 225,000 mile engine and get it all done to save some money. The engine ran well except for when I checked the compression and it was kind of low and somewhat uneven. What should I do to get this engine going for a while longer? Any recommendations?
Thanks Karl
I just did this in my MGB. Didn't want to spend a ton, but wanted to hit the critical stuff.
I did valve job plus pistons/rings and rod bearings.
My B has 1000 miles since I did this....runs a lot nicer.
If the oil pressure was OK before, you can probably just replace rod bearings and leave main bearings alone. Be sure to measure rod bearing journals to see if they are within spec.If they're not, you'll need to pull the crank, at which point you may as well renew the mains (plus lots of other stuff).
I'd have the valves ground.
I'd replace pistons and rings (if you're really on a budget and the pistons look OK, you might get away with just rings....that's your call.
New timing chain. Not sure how timing chain sprockets hold up on these (at least inspect).
All new gaskets, of course.
Not sure about water pump and oil pump on these....with that mileage, maybe. Ditto clutch.
If saving money is the goal, rebuilding is not going to save you anything IMO. A set of gaskets, rings, and bearings alone will cost you more than a junkyard engine usually. The junkyard engine comes with a warranty, while your own rebuild may turn out horribly and you only have yourself to blame. Of course, if you're in it for the long haul you're better off spending more and doing a quality rebuild, but if you are looking for a short term fix for little money then in my experience a junkyard engine is your best value.
Bryce
I agree on the junkyard engine, but can I really find a 318 engine for a couple hundred in a junkyard?
Have you got a leak down tester? Cheap and quick way to see if its ring or valves. With that kind od milage it's likely both but it it was not using more than 1 quart between oil changes just do a valve job and slap it back on and go. If it was leaking oil and burning some close your eyes to tapper and out of round and stuff new rings and bearing plus valve job and call it good. just hone the cyl and wash everything untill it rust up as you rinse it off the cleaner then and only then do you know its clean hose it off with WD40 to protect and assemble with white lubra-plate grease.
44
You broke my #1 rule when it comes to engines: "If it runs and you already own it, never do a compression test."
If the old engine is pretty dirty or you can see it's been leaking, R&R all related gaskets and seals, quickie check to see that there isn't sludge stuck to it's guts, then back in the car.
Of course now that you've seen the results of that compression test, your conscience won't let you do that.
Things that typically should be changed on high mileage engines are:
So I'd suggest looking at the rebuild kits and see if you want to do it or not. If learning is the object here and it's within your means I'd do it in a heart-beat. If money is an issue then you decide how long you'll keep the car and how much money you want to spend (if any) and go from there.
Hmmm... How much does a valve job on a 24v engine run? I'm not experienced in this at all, but I'd love to learn and could kind of afford to screw up. 
I have seen running 318is engines, and even M50s all for $150 in the junkyard. lol
If the engine is already out, you're halfway there. Unless it has really been flogged hard, all you should need is a thorough cleaning, rings, send the head out for a valve job, and bearings. Of course it goes with saying to replace timing belt/chain(I forget which you have) water pump, and oil pump while the motor is apart., as RussellH pointed out. With parts being more than reasonable @ online sources, It should be good for another 200K. A junkyard motor is just that- a junkyard motor. Unless you can hear it and see the mileage before it's pulled, I would run away. A 30 day warranty is great, but I wouldn't want to have to pull it out again and then get another to reinstall if something goes wrong.
where are there $150 M50s? Everything looks to be about $700ish when I have looked?
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