mith612 Opel Ascona 1900 »
I'm looking for a small, cheap trailer for the shifter kart. Harbor Freight has some cool options for not much cash. Unfortunately, the local store does not stock the ones I'm interested in so I can't just go check them out.
Does anyone have any opinions on Harbor Freight trailers?
Thanks!
David
I have a 4 x 8 HF folder that I tow the MX bike around with. Make sure you go for the larger wheel option. They're pretty decent overall. I've had a few over the years and it seems like you get what you pay for if not a little extra. Tows great behind the minivan and stores easily.
jg
I'm having a hard time imagining how I'd use a trailer as a hammer....
Run_Away wrote:I'm having a hard time imagining how I'd use a trailer as a hammer....
Well, imagine what you are trying to hit is your bumper, and your receiver ball fails just as you initiate a panic stop.
One of my friends tows tires behind his [Miata/Outback Sport] and claims that he doesn't even notice that it's there at any speed he cares to drive. I'm somewhat dubious, since I've seen him drive, but I'll take his word as the truth.
He did say to get the bigger wheels, too.
I like my little 4'x4' model, I towed tires and such behind my Miata. Its true, you hardly feel it. So much so, that I got on it turning a corner, and while I did, the rear end stepped out a bit, and the trailer didnt seem to even make a difference! Drifting with trailers FTW.
My only complaint was I tore a bearing seal and now cant seem to find a replacement. Any ideas?
I want to use the larger model as a chassis for my tear drop camper I will make eventually.
Joey
I have the 4'x4' model and use it for many projects. I agree to get the larger tire model.
I have built junk wooden sides and pickup a yard of mulch and fire wood.
I like the trailer but I find the short wheelbase doesn't allow me to back up with it. it always jack knifes. Maybe I don't know the secret?
The larger wheel model the tires will make less revolutions so there is less stress on the bearings and tires.
I was planning on getting one next year as a couple guys in the club have them and makes packing up easier.
Yeah, the larger wheel is better,but only for the ride quality of the trailer with regard to bumps. The smaller wheels are fine, but the larger would provide a smoother ride.
I've owned the smaller wheeled HF trailer for over 12 years, no issues, never repacked the bearings, and it's been run at 85+ for hours on end. Bearings aren't even breathing hard until they are spinning at speeds far higher than a trailer wheel provides.
I'd buy the larger wheeled trailer, but only because it will provide a better ride for whatever is on it. They both fold up and stack nicely. Great for us suburban warriors, that occassionally need a trailer, or have no place to store one. Keeping it in the garage means that my 12+ year old trailer looks almost new too.
Jack
+whatever. Have the 4'x4' w/ larger wheels. Don't really notice it's back there. Works fine for what it is.
Trailer is great for work stuff and old Datsun Roadster Frames.
I vote larger wheels because those little ones look like they would be ripped off by a decent-sized pothole.
Otherwise, the trailers are made out of the same cheap Chinese/Mexican components as every other small trailer out there. And they work fine.
I have a Nissan Frontier and a 98 Accord with a trailer hitch. I often use the Accord and a 5x8 trailer for hauling stuff, just because it is comfy and seats 3.
The Ridgeline vs. "Real" Pickup Truck post was interesting to me. I find that an average sedan and a utility trailer is a viable and economical alternative to either for any task short of hauling a car.
If you have room to store it, I reccommend getting a trailer that is big enough to do some real hauling....at least as big as a pickup truck bed. The cost:capacity ratio is pretty high for trailers under 4x6.
I bought a brand new 5x8 trailer with 'real' 14" wheels and tires and a 1500lb leaf-spring axle for $500. This includes upgrades to a lumber (versus steel mesh) floor, spare wheel and dump bed. Easy to load compared to a pickup truck. Trailers do not depreciate, either. I could sell it any day for what I paid for it.
Tyler H wrote: I find that an average sedan and a utility trailer is a viable and economical alternative to either.
I'd add that with a roofrack and a trailer it might be even more useful. Since both of my pickups have toppers on them when I had to fetch a couple 20' 2x4s yeaterday I took the old Opel to the store instead of either pickup. Strapping the boards to the roof is tons easier than taking a topper on and off.
If you have access to a welder, I'd recommend welding the HF trailer together after it's all bolted and squared up. Seems in order for me to get the bolts tight enough to not vibrate out I usually end up breaking half of them off because they aren't the greatest bolts.
Of course if you have a welder you could just build your own from scratch. You probably couldn't do it for the price of the little HF trailer, though it might end up nicer over-all.
Oh, and if you use it a lot you'll break tail lights off with regularity because it's hard to see when you're backing, especially empty. Two solutions I find that help:
-A pair of fiberglass driveway markers, each sticking out each side just enough to see them in the side mirrors helps keep an eye on what the trailer's doing while going down the road and while backing it up.
-Consider swapping out the tail lights with something indestructable when you need to replace them. My favorite is to bolt on a pair of those rubber utility lights and replace the sealed beam flood light bulb with one of those 4" sealed dual filiment truck light assemblies. They pop right in, the bulbs last longer than regular bulbs (forever if you get the LED ones) and if you smack a pole or something all you have to do is pop it back together.
Thanks everyone for your comments!
Yesterday I bought a 4'X8' Harbor Freight trailer with the larger 12" tires. It was on sale for $300, came in three boxes, and obviously is "some assembly required." The rear axle of the shifter kart won't fit between the fenders but the front axle will; I'll have maybe 1/3 of the kart behind the fenders or so. Given the very light weights involved I'm not too worried about tongue weight. I'll be towing with a Tacoma.
I'm stoked because of two features. Firstly, the trailer folds in half and then rolls around on casters for easy storage inside a garage. Since I've had two car trailers stolen, inside storage is a plus. Also, it puts fewer demands on space as I start to shop for houses.
Second, the trailer bed tilts for easy loading. Well, we'll see. But hopefully I can get the kart on it without ramps. Rolling the kart onto the car trailer by myself when I didn't have an extra set of hands was a major PITA.
Good idea about welding the trailer together. I do have a little welder although my skill level is "burns metal well." It's kindofa shame to ruin the paint but I don't like the idea of the trailer vibrating apart.
Anyway, once I get it assembled and the kart on it I will post pictures. I like the overall utility this offers. The Tacoma might one day be replaced by a wagon (Mazda 3 or Outback, etc.) and this little trailer would make that viable.
David
Here's a question:
What are everyone's thoughts about decking? I was thinking expanded metal mesh would be neat, durable and light. What benefits do you see of plywood? Wouldn't it be heavier and less durable? I suppose it would keep the load more dry when towing in the rain...
David
You can skip the weld it together bit by either using a solid 4x8 sheet of plywood, or bolting a bit of angle iron to the sides, or both. No need to weld.
I use the tilt function a whole lot more than I expected. It's a darn handy feature.
Haven't owned a HF trailer but I have stood on more than one wood deck trailer in the rain and they are deadly slick. 
That's why my M/C trailer has expanded mesh. Not to mention it's lighter.
I have 2x6 pressure treated boards for a floor. It was about $40 more than a mesh floor, but it makes it much eaiser to push stubborn loads (like an engine on a wooden pallet) around on the trailer. Mesh is like a cheese grater, and the stuff they were offering where I bought my trailer was pretty flexy.
Wood floors are slick in the wet, especially if they have been "treated" with motor oil.
When we moved from TX to AR, I borrowed a HF trailer built by a friend. He used diamond plate for the floor and real mil-spec tie down points. I pulled it behind one of my Toyota Trucks. The bike weighs around 900 lbs. It was great.
Now, I'm looking for a trailer to pull behind my bike. I really want something that's about 3 ft wide, which is as wide as my bike. Maybe 3'6" outside to outside. I don't like to have to think about the extra width when I'm cruising. I'd like to have one of those one-wheel trailers, but they want way too much for them. I'm starting to think HF and a car topper thing. I could buy the HF trailer and narrow it down to 3'-ish. It would be cheaper than scratch building. For one thing, it would cost me two hundred and several months work to get a title on a scratch built trailer, and the HF trailers come with a MSO.
And I think you can about build one yourself cheaper than buying someone else's pre-built HF bike trailer.
4 X 8 enclosed; lockable. New wiring, new paint & non-skid inside, recently greased bearings. $800. Receiver & ball included.
^^^ How tall is the blue trailer?
Not tall enough for Dan's bike.....
ZING!!
Ouch...! 
Actually, I'm looking for a lawn tractor trailer and have been looking at the HF ones. As someone mentioned though, they are relatively expensive for their size.
Anyone know of any cheaper solutions for a yard work trailer?
Sonofa... WTB Miata; Ugly Is Perfect!
