Tunawife got a p0740 code last night (2011 caravan). Based on what I read, I think the torque converter lockup solenoid has failed and is serviceable externally.
Can the hive confirm and figure figure out the part number for me? I can’t find it and feel ashamed.
IIR it should be in the valve body. Will check later today.
Dealer says 68376696AA, and it's not cheap.
I had thought it was a dangle coming from the pan, but this thing appears to be the solenoid pack about the valve body, can it even be done in the car?
In my recent experience, dealers don't like "fixing" broken automatic transmissions. They would rather R&R with a rebuilt or new unit. Fewer unknowns and less chances of it coming back under warranty.
It looks like from that video it can be done in the car. It all looks like a massive pain.
The eagle has landed. Two hours to get it out. We’ll see if the part arrives tomorrow.
I got in about 2-3 hours today before having to stop and shuttle the kids about (Tunawife won't drive the Honda). The solenoid pack is assembled to the valvebody, the valvebody is reassembled back into the car, the upper pan is on, the filter is on. The next stop is the bottom pan, the upper pan cover, the battery tray, the battery, the overflow tank and then it's all done. Probably.
Good work! Did you have to remove any crossmembers or subframes to gain access?
In reply to 2002maniac :
Nope. Just the pan cover, The expansion tank, the battery tray, and obviously the valve body. It took about 5-6 hours all in. They even gave me wholesale pricing at the dealer and saved me like $90.
Test drive to work this morning proved everything was OK. Hurray!
Thanks for the help.
So excellent! I’ve never touched the inside of an auto transmission. They seem like voodoo to me. Congrats on the successful repair of a magical device!
Good fix Tuna. Well done.
Thanks, guys. It was indeed a big job with more than a few unknowns. DId I screw up those tiny valve body electrical connectors? Did I put all of the balls back in the right places? Did I remember all of the bolts in all of the right places? How bad was the magnet debris? Etc...
Really, I also affirmed that the Honda is no longer serving in its intended role, that is to ferry Tuna to work and back. The seatbelt situation for hauling all four kids is double plus ungood, and Tunawife won't even ride in it. I doubt I'll be financially ready to replace it anytime soon, but it sure is a chink in the armor right now. The original plan was to get a car which would be able to be the DD for myself and whichever adult had the fewest number of kids. The bad deal is that painted and perfect, it might be worth two grand. As it sits it might be worth half that.
Though the kids' art teacher really digs it. Maybe I'll have the class paint it for me.
In reply to tuna55 :
you need my rav4 or another one with the 3rd row seat...
Ian F said:In my recent experience, dealers don't like "fixing" broken automatic transmissions. They would rather R&R with a rebuilt or new unit. Fewer unknowns and less chances of it coming back under warranty.
FYI you are correct. This is what TunaDad does for a living. He has a garage and a large portion of his business comes from dealers having him rebuild transmissions.
He makes a lot of money.
Fueled by Caffeine said:In reply to tuna55 :
you need my rav4 or another one with the 3rd row seat...
Even trade for the Honda?
In reply to tuna55 :
does it have a manual transmission?
Fueled by Caffeine said:In reply to tuna55 :
does it have a manual transmission?
Yes! You know the one.
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/2015-challenge-entry-88-accord-lxi/100071/page1/
I either have not cleared the code, because it is a permanent code, properly, or it came back again and continues to do so every other test drive, but not the one right after I clear it. This is weird. Ideas?
A lot of codes have to occur in two consecutive 'trips' to go from 'pending' to 'active' codes and light the CEL. Is the symptom recurring as well?
In reply to Vigo :
I have no way of knowing. It drives fine. I won’t be able to tell if the converter is not locking. It sounds like I am in line for a converter now.
So TunaDad thinks it's the torque converter. I can get one from a well-known rebuilder who he uses for cheap, but I need to get a core. I suppose a few hours at the JK is just practice for getting mine out. Total will be under $100, but lots of time.
It's either that or a car payment.
Shouldn't you be able to count shifts to see if it's locking? The last shift on the highway is typically the converter lockup.
2002maniac said:Shouldn't you be able to count shifts to see if it's locking? The last shift on the highway is typically the converter lockup.
It's about a 200 RPM difference, so not really.
I ordered one today from his other supplier, $125 once the core is returned. Should be a really fun project.
Apparently, the friction material becomes unadhered inside the converter. This explains the weird feeling like the drivetrain kept tugging you along after you lifted that the van has always had. I just chalked it up to weird programming until now.
of course, it could be something else and this is all a waste.
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