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it's a live rear axle so it will be really straight forward to swap a drive axle in
the driveshaft would be set up like a legends car with it going to the sprocket on the transmission
I know the front suspension is a little weird on the first gen CRX, but I'm not too worried about it
they are super cheap and hardly weigh anything, a 180hp 1700lb car would be a lot of fun
all we can say is " DO IT DO IT DO IT"!!!
Might be fun until you needed to back up :)
Might need a lighter car, the busa has 90(?) Ft lb of torque at 10k, probably nothing at 1k.
Kj
^One way to help would be gear it to top out around 130-140 vs 200.
But I still think an engine with that little TQ in a car, not a locost, would be a bit of bear.
Sounds cool, and you could likely get the weight under 1700 lbs no? You're getting rid of a heavy (relatively) motor/trans, the bike engine will be much lighter. You'd likely get pretty good and changing clutches... No reverse would suck.
I know the front suspension is a little weird on the first gen CRX, but I'm not too worried about it
If by "weird" you mean "incredibly simple," yes.
terrible idea. do it.
Been thinking of this myself. Should be doable, especially with some significant gutting (dash and all the crap behind it, door glass and regulators, stock engine and tranny).
Oh, and you should very, very, very easily be able to get it under 1500lbs.
grimmelshanks wrote:poopshovel said:terrible idea. do it.
Oh, and you should very, very, very easily be able to get it under 1500lbs
And then, boy...oh yeah, the fun begins! But bring earplugs....unless you LIKE the ringing in your ears.
Twin 'Busas may be an adjunct to the idea, just to get the insanity factor 'up there'
Search the internet, I read somewhere of someone who made a 2nd Gen CRX into a 4WD using the drivetrain from a 80's 4wd Civic wagon.
It looked cool, you couldn't tell it was 4WD, and it was fast.
4WD is so much easier than that. Busa motor in the front, busa motor in the back. Boom. Done.
thatsnowinnebago wrote:THAT'S what I'm talkin' 'bout, hey!4WD is so much easier than that. Busa motor in the front, busa motor in the back. Boom. Done.
Graft a Miata subframe into the rear. Fab a diff mount and axles in the front to the factory hubs. Use 2 bike motors with sprocket to driveshaft adapters 1 motor aiming forwards, 1 motor aiming backwards. With this plan you can use dirt cheap 600cc motors and still have more power than the Busa. Twin transmissions and 4wd will allow the bike trans to last longer as well.
not going to do twin engines, trying to do it on a budget lol 
I'm thinking it should be possible to do it for under $5k 
$500ish for the car
$100-200 for the rear axle
$2-3000 for the engine and wiring harness, ecu, etc.
$300 or so to get the driveshaft made at a local shop
and then whatever is left for random things that pop up along the way
z31maniac wrote:^One way to help would be gear it to top out around 130-140 vs 200.
But I still think an engine with that little TQ in a car, not a locost, would be a bit of bear.
that's the plan, I was going to use a foxbody rear end so there would be lots of final drive options to play around with as well as being cheap and readily available
Here is the solution to the gearing and the reverse gear This is brilliant: how to make Hayabusa move a car
vazbmw wrote: how to make Hayabusa move a car
SWEET HOLY JESUS
Words cannot adequately express the EPICWINSAUCE thats happening there
vazbmw wrote:yeah I've been watching their progress on that, really impressiveHere is the solution to the gearing and the reverse gear This is brilliant: how to make Hayabusa move a car
sadly I don't have a CNC machine lol
Is it weird I don't see the point to that build? Or am I just so messed up that I think a Miata is too large?
unevolved wrote:Is it weird I don't see the point to that build? Or am I just so messed up that I think a Miata is too large?
the door is over there...please see your way out. There will be someone at the front gate to collect your credentials. Please have a nice life.
Maybe it's because I'm going in the opposite direction with ours. 
no no no dont get me wrong the VQ route is plenty entertaining as well...would be fun to see which one does better - bulk'd up displacement or adding lightness? on the 1320 Id think the VQ wins hands down, but as soon as you have to use the steering wheel, Id say nimble may have an edge...
Tom F wrote:it's a live rear axle so it will be really straight forward to swap a drive axle in
It's the trans tunnel that will kill you. That, and the rear suspension is 100% useless for locating a live axle, so you're going to be cutting floor and such no matter what.
I know the front suspension is a little weird on the first gen CRX, but I'm not too worried about it
Where's the rack?
they are super cheap
Where are you at? I'm bringing a car hauler.
if you can find CRXs, you can find Starlets. Those meet your criteria with a higher chance of not sucking.
