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  • chknhwk

    Oct. 30, 2010 7:09 p.m. chknhwk Reader

    I admit this is probably a pretty tame question for these boards but I'm having a small problem with breaking front sway bar brackets. I ordered some custom bars and the supplier is having a difficult time fabricating brackets to work for my application. The problem is the bracket arms have to extend past the bushing as the bushing sits on a small step:

    I've toyed with the idea of simply getting longer bolts and using spacers under the supplied aftermarket brackets but I'm a little concerned over getting proper clamping on the brackets - plus they look as if they may interfere with the steering arms. Thoughts?

  • chknhwk

    Oct. 30, 2010 7:10 p.m. chknhwk Reader

    Sorry, this is for my 04 X-Type.

  • MadScientistMatt

    Oct. 30, 2010 8:22 p.m. MadScientistMatt Dork

    Is trimming the bushing's lower edge an option?

  • chknhwk

    Oct. 30, 2010 9:09 p.m. chknhwk Reader

    Actually, probably. I'll take some measurements and find out.

  • oldtin

    Oct. 30, 2010 9:58 p.m. oldtin HalfDork

    Hole saw and a chunk of steel/aluminum. Drill the hole, add some attaching holes, slice the bracket in half. Tap one half of mounting holes and drill out the other half just a little larger to attach the halves together? It's worked for me with just a drill press and a portaband

  • novaderrik

    Oct. 30, 2010 10:20 p.m. novaderrik HalfDork

    get some 1/8" thick steel the proper width, bend it to the proper shape in your vice using leverage, heat, and a hammer, drill the mounting holes, and bolt it down.

  • Streetwiseguy

    Oct. 31, 2010 12:26 a.m. Streetwiseguy HalfDork

    They are failing at the bend. Your two options are to increase the thickness of the steel, or to gusset the corners. It appears access to the bolts is tight, but even if you weld in a triangle gusset on only one edge it will improve it a great deal.

  • chknhwk

    Oct. 31, 2010 4:07 a.m. chknhwk Reader

    I believe that reworking the stock brackets significantly weakened them which led to their failure. The new bushings are meant to work with the stock brackets but like I said, they don't do a good job of locating the bar, it keeps walking sideways and impacting the driveshaft.

  • 44Dwarf

    Oct. 31, 2010 7:35 a.m. 44Dwarf Dork

    why not just buy a block of poly and drill the hole for the bar then cut in half then drill and tap the top side? Use the bushing as its own strap? you could run a srap on the top with welded nuts on it too.

  • Oct. 31, 2010 9:29 a.m. Mikey52_1 HalfDork

    Both of the block solutions have merit. And they're pretty easy, even if you have to farm the machine work out. If you DO farm it out, try making a dummy block from a chunk of 2x4 to figure out where to carve the real blocks to fit the chassis. But by all means, go for it. At the very least, you'll get some experience. And that's ALWAYS fun!

  • Oct. 31, 2010 11:06 p.m. Flogger00 New Reader

    In reply to chknhwk:

    Access looks pretty tight for a big hunk of aluminum in there. I'd maybe see if the stock brackets could be stacked (maybe flatten the rolled edges of the bottom one if necessary, but that'll weaken it). I'd use as big a gusset as space allows on the top bracket (actually 4 gussets). Even use allen screws if that'll allow the gussets to be bigger. Also, you mentioned the bar is walking and hitting the driveshaft - try something like this: http://www.mcmaster.com/#shaft-collars/=9iu4o9

    HTH

  • Woody

    Nov. 1, 2010 7:37 a.m. Woody SuperDork

    Thanks, I always wondered what those were called.

  • chknhwk

    Nov. 1, 2010 11:30 a.m. chknhwk Reader

    Thanks for all the ideas, I truly appreciate it. Flogger, I have a set of those on the rear bar - it also walked while at VIR. It walked right into the rear spring, gave me a heck of a time with trailbraking and having the rear end of the car hop all over the track. LOL

  • turboswede

    Nov. 1, 2010 2:56 p.m. turboswede SuperDork

    chknhwk wrote:

    Thanks for all the ideas, I truly appreciate it. Flogger, I have a set of those on the rear bar - it also walked while at VIR. It walked right into the rear spring, gave me a heck of a time with trailbraking and having the rear end of the car hop all over the track. LOL

    Sounds like the linkage is binding at the ends of the sway bars and/or there is too much suspension movement for the linkage to work. Either way, with proper collars and brackets, the bar shouldn't move side to side unless your linkage is applying significant side load to the ends of the arms.

    If possible, removing the shocks and springs to allow movement of the suspension can help troubleshoot the problem by allowing you to watch movement to see if the issue can be replicated and resolved.

  • Nov. 1, 2010 3:14 p.m. triumph5 HalfDork

    Don't know the diameter of the bar, but almost all Triumph/British parts suppliers sell solid aluminum mounts for sway bars. Look up The Roadster Factory in PA, Triumph Spitfire catalog, and you'll find solid aluminum bolt on mounts for the front sway bar. I'd imagine they have them for other British Cars. Also try Moss Motors (bit pricey) or BP Northwest. IIRC they were around $50 for a pair. Although, The Roadster Factory does have their performance parts on sale now, so you might want to try them first.

  • Nov. 1, 2010 3:16 p.m. triumph5 HalfDork

    BTW, others may have run into this same problem, so what's the make and model, and someone on this board may know where to get better mounts.

  • chknhwk

    Nov. 1, 2010 6:11 p.m. chknhwk Reader

    Thanks for the tip on the solid mounts. They are one off custom sway bars, I doubt anyone else has had this same problem. It is an 04 X type, Jaguar. AWD.

  • Dwayne Elizondo Mountain Dew Herbert Camacho

    Nov. 1, 2010 6:32 p.m. Dwayne Elizondo Mountain Dew Herbert Camacho SuperDork

    Can I +1 carving a piece of 2x4 to get shape then taking that to the local welding/metal shop saying you need to form a rib reinforced piece of steel with the same shape. They should be able to press out a pair for $100.00 then you can test fit them and if they work job them out in bulk and sell them. The first ones will hurt though.

  • chknhwk

    Nov. 1, 2010 8:07 p.m. chknhwk Reader

    Ordered two 1" shaft collars, we'll see if that holds long enough until I can fund more work on it. Thanks everybody for their input! I feel much better about finding a permanent solution to this.

  • Zomby woof

    Nov. 1, 2010 8:15 p.m. Zomby woof Dork

    Stauff clamp?

  • Nov. 2, 2010 8:43 a.m. triumph5 HalfDork

    chknhwk wrote:

    Thanks for the tip on the solid mounts. They are one off custom sway bars, I doubt anyone else has had this same problem. It is an 04 X type, Jaguar. AWD.

    Get in touch with the people at Donovan Engineering, I think they're in MA. They know everything Jag. They have done some amazing things to improve/modify/restore Jags. And these boys do NOT treat jags as trailer queens.

  • chknhwk

    Nov. 2, 2010 6:49 p.m. chknhwk Reader

    Awesome! Thanks for the tip, I'll look them up now.

    Edit: It looks like you were referring to Donovan Motorcars which is located in Mass. In fact they even do events with our local Jaguar club along with racing vintage jags. Thanks for the tip!

    http://www.donovanmotorcars.com/DMDonovanMotorsport.htm

 
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