I blame those F2T guys for this mess.

I'm going to check out a 91 Probe GT tomorrow or Monday with (supposedly) 120k+ on the odo. It's not local so I'm trying to get my ducks in a row before heading out. It's a manual of course. Do any of you have any tips or things I should check for while I'm there? Any noises I should listen for when taking the test drive?

Thanks for any info you can give. I know there are a couple of F2t gurus (I'm looking at SwankForceOne specifically) on the board. I'm researching on Probe Talk and the Performance Probe board as well. Any other places I should check?

I'm also open to any thoughts on how to hop this up on the cheap and maybe, just maybe, make it a contender.

sub'd

I'm not braining at the moment, so I really can't help a ton. I know that 120k is NOTHING on these engines. Look at the usual stuff, worn bushings etc. Check for a grind between 1-2, a little is normal, a lot is bad. These aren't the best feeling shifters in the world, so if it feels "ok" it's probably fine. 120k, it may well be on the original clutch.

As far as forums, mx6 something- ( think it's mx6forums.com, that's where I got mine for the princely sum of 400$) is a good place to look, though it's not updated regularly. The only real difference is- the probe is heavier and gets the space man interior.

As far as hopping it up- the stock turbo is probably worn out. Nearest I can tell, get a zombie chip if you can find one, throw a turbo and some injectors at it, and boost the E36 M3 out of it. They hold stupid amounts of boost. Also, the 1991 is the better of that gen to have anyhow.....so there is that.

mx6.com is the site of all knowledge. its pretty dead, but everything you've ever wanted to know is on there. As long as the compression is good, the bottom end is pretty rock solid. I personally would avoid any f2t with a manual boost controller or BOV, but thats more of a preference. The clutch and turbo as mndsm said are probably near their end, but maybe not. Swank talks of 200k on a clutch, but mine went out at 120.

Thanks for the info mndsm. Clutch and turbo lifetime's are noted. $400 for an MX6 GT? Hmm. Good to know what the cars are going for. Also, the space man interior? I like that E36 M3. I love that kitschy style 80's stuff.

What's a zombie chip? Can I source a replacement turbo via Ebay. One of those cheap as dirt chinese rip-offs? I'll have to research this.

$400 is an anomaly. If I could ever get my f2t running right, I'd be asking 2500, and its 120k as well.

Xceler8x wrote: Thanks for the info mndsm. Clutch and turbo lifetime's are noted. $400 for an MX6 GT? Hmm. Good to know what the cars are going for. Also, the space man interior? I like that E36 M3. I love that kitschy style 80's stuff. What's a zombie chip? Can I source a replacement turbo via Ebay. One of those cheap as dirt chinese rip-offs? I'll have to research this.

mx6.com, thanks. That was the site I was thinking of. A zombie chip is something SF1 can explain better than I can, but it's from the days where chipping an ECU was a thing.

lnlogauge wrote: mx6.com is the site of all knowledge. its pretty dead, but everything you've ever wanted to know is on there. As long as the compression is good, the bottom end is pretty rock solid. I personally would avoid any f2t with a manual boost controller or BOV, but thats more of a preference. The clutch and turbo as mndsm said are probably near their end, but maybe not. Swank talks of 200k on a clutch, but mine went out at 120.

Thanks for the info Inlogauge. I cut my turbo teeth on boosting an NA Miata years back. That experience made me think twice about getting a turbo'ed car with a BOV and a manual boost controller. I always wondered if someone had turned the knob until the engine cried uncle, then wanted to sell it.

The clutch thing is something to look out for. If it's original, like you said, it's most likely on it's last legs. Does anyone know what the max boost level is for a stock clutch? What amount of boost will cause it to start slipping?

Turbos are known to last 200k, if it ain't smoking, don't sweat it.

Look for rust. Bushings are probably shot in the front, but that's a cheap and easy fix.

It will probably leak oil. Almost all gaskets are easy to get to, so no big deal.

I would only shy away from a boost controller car IF it has a chipped ecu. The ecu won't allow enough boost to hurt anything. For that matter, the turbo isn't capable of hurting anything but itself, period, so.... meh?

Healthy stock clutch should hold anything the stock turbo can throw at it. Stock fuel as well.

This is pretty simple. If it runs well, looks good, and isnt rusty, it's good.

As for the chips... they're just old school tuning. Removes boost cut, some mildly tweak timing and fuel. ZombieSS, JayB, Probinator, EL Prototype, AdamTurbo, etc. They're all pretty much the same. You can still get them from forum members for cheap.

Thanks for the info. I'll have more data tomorrow after I check it out. Brb!

I assume this car has a manual trans. Accelerate hard in each gear and see if the trans wants to jump out of gear. I had problems with this in mine, but apparently not everyone else has, and a really good rebuild shop should be able to do something about it if it happens with yours down the road should you pick this up.

That's really about it beyond obvious wear and rust in the usual places.

I think my turbo is original with 220k miles. No smoke.

I will just leave this right here.

Man I want one...

Yeah, I bought mine with 208k on it for 400 bucks. Had a bit of a coolant issue (bubble that was easily ferreted out). It doesn't have a straight panel on it (I bought it for the drivetrain, was previously owned by a Mazda tech who knew his E36 M3) and it's got some rust- but when it runs, it runs like a champ. I need to take a door switch out of it and get a new alternator- it has a bit of an electrical drain... other than that- it's fine and I'd drive it to the moon tomorrow. Interior's mint, too. Even the center vents still work!

It was an LX car with a 3.0L V6. Argh.

On the plus side..it ran well. AC even worked. The suspension was a bit floaty but that's easily remedied. Rust free. No sh!t. I couldn't find a rust spot on it. The paint is dull but that's also easily fixed. Clutch felt good. The trans shifted well and the shop had already changed out the shifter bushings.

It is a great deal at sub $1k. I'm just not interested. Here's the link for anyone who wants to get their probe (HA!) on.

https://richmond.craigslist.org/cto/4426022351.html

mndsm wrote: Yeah, I bought mine with 208k on it for 400 bucks. Had a bit of a coolant issue (bubble that was easily ferreted out). It doesn't have a straight panel on it (I bought it for the drivetrain, was previously owned by a Mazda tech who knew his E36 M3) and it's got some rust- but when it runs, it runs like a champ. I need to take a door switch out of it and get a new alternator- it has a bit of an electrical drain... other than that- it's fine and I'd drive it to the moon tomorrow. Interior's mint, too. Even the center vents still work!

Don't sink any money into that car that doesn't need to be unless it's keeping you from driving it out here. I'm just going to crush it anyways.

In reply to Xceler8x:

Go back and steal the transmission out of that for me, will ya?

In reply to Swank Force One:

Don't crush it! Sell it to me! I NEED an MX-6!!!!

This one is pretty crusty.... I don't know that you want it.

1989 2.2 turbo MX6 - $1000 No word on transmission. This car will turn your world upside down.

In reply to T.J.:

I've already e-mailed that guy, no word back yet. The ad says it's a manual trans (on the side under the map), and it's only 3 hours from me! I want it bad! I kinda want to just drive down there and show up at the guy's place!

In reply to sethmeister4: That might be a bad idea knowing most craigslist sellers leave ads up after their crap has sold.

In reply to clutchsmoke:

I know. He just posted it the other day though, so it's a new ad. Maybe I should flag it and he'll repost it?