BobOfTheFuture
BobOfTheFuture HalfDork
3/12/12 2:55 a.m.

Okay, I was picking FriedGreenCorrado's brain the other night about these, but I am still treading in unknown territory.

To have a quick-disconnect wheel, do you need a hub, a wheel and a QD unit, seperately, then bolt them together?

Or is the hub part of the QD?

Im trying to set myself up a QD on a Volvo 240, if anyone is interested in what for...

Giant Purple Snorklewacker
Giant Purple Snorklewacker SuperDork
3/12/12 6:12 a.m.

You need a disconnect with splines to match the column (or have a weld-on end if you are using 3/4 tubing for a column) and a hole pattern to match the aftermarket wheel.

There are dirt cheap ones that use a pin to lock the wheel on the shaft - of these there are two kinds of "mounting" - hex and spline. Get the spline as the hex has too much play for anything other than dirt racing. These run from $25 to $65 and are made for US 3 screw wheels. 5 min with some aluminum and a drill press will make it fit a Sparco.

The more expensive ones do not use a pin - they have ball bearings and a ring or paddle to release it. These are slick, come ready for 5 or 6 hole wheels and there are ebay knock-offs that are cheap. LTB Motorsports has good ones for most applications.

I still use and old fashioned one with a pin and weld on splines because I and cheap and like to know the steering wheel is 100% locked in place when I hit the track.

Grassroots Motorsports Magazine

Subscribe Today

Also get your instant access to the digital edition of Grassroots Motorsports Magazine!

Learn More
1AfWwY4N3ACIHszM7ivRho1dOuhqN0AT