Sorry about the crappy phone pictures but you get the idea. This is the 1996 WRX wiring harness that I need to strip down to go into the 911. I just told my self that it was OBDI and it would be easy. Wow, I have great optimism.
Thanks for sharing my pain.
Bah, you'll be fine. Just take it a little at a time, go slow and don't cut anything too quickly.
You have a roll of duct tape, what's the problem?
I thought the 1996 Impreza was OBDII
The WRX wasn't sold in the US in 1996, so the wiring could still have been OBD1 overseas.
Whenever I get that deep into one, I use zip-ties to bundle the main trunks and branches when making the test fit, rather than tape. It seems there's always a couple of wires that need to be re-routed, and having to untape them a second time only adds to your grief. When you have the test fit just right, then tape and loom.
Take your time; you'll do fine.
Ansonvian is right. Go slow, check your work, only cut after you're really, really sure. You can do eet!
Tom Heath wrote:Ansonvian is right. Go slow, check your work, only cut after you're really, really sure. You can do eet!
x3!
I used to go nutty with zipties for this style project. Then I was introduced to velcro wraps. My local home depot has them for cheap (in the fasteners aisle, look for the long rollup, not the spendy 5 pack in the electrical section), they work great and they're reusable.
I'm using the same stuff now behind the computer desk, tv, to control the toaster cord. Its a sickness!
How much is that roll? I may need to get it, but don't venture to Home Depot Racing supply store that much.
CHEAP, I don't remember how many you get but, I bought em about 7 months ago and haven't gone through half the roll, I know we've got em for I know less than 5.00 I think it's closer to 4.
Spinout007 wrote:CHEAP, I don't remember how many you get but, I bought em about 7 months ago and haven't gone through half the roll, I know we've got em for I know less than 5.00 I think it's closer to 4.
I recall about the same. Which is funny , because they sell a 5 pack (5 straps, not 5 rolls) for the same $5 across the store. Those must be better at harnessing electrons or something.
that'll buff out
when the going gets really rough, these can help a whole lot:
I have a couple of pictures that look like that... one from when I completely rewired the Spitfire with an aftermarket harness... and then a similar shot from when I gutted the engine bay of the nice 1800ES during it's trans swap.
Go slow... mark everything... having a couple of copies of the wiring diagram to mark up/check off is key. It's a daunting task, no question... but just plug away a little bit at a time and it'll get there... If you get frustrated, don't be afraid to walk away for a bit...
Always cut the green wire, at least that's what they told us in anti terror class.
Don't cut the green wire ,it's a trick- they switched them knowing you would go for it- cut the red wire.
NO NO NO, it's the blue one, cut the blue one! hurry you only have 10 seconds left!
Thanks, I knew that class was useless. That's why i come here.
It's not hard as long as you have a wiring diagram for the donor car. Get that before you cut a single wire!
1995-1996 was a transitional period for OBD I and OBD II in imports, for instance a lot of California stuff was OBD II before OBD II was cool. There's even some 1994 stuff with a hybrid of OBD I and OBD II. Easy way to tell: OBD I has only the upstream O2 sensor. OBD II has upstream and downstream O2's, meaning one in front and one behind the catalytic converter. In most cases, OBD I did not have a cam position sensor but that's not always true.
If you can't find a wiring diagram, get the engine in the car, connect all the various sensors and start the engine. Anything that's not plugged in is of no real use and can be removed. BUT: be aware some stuff might be of use later. For instance, on the 13B NA in my car, there is a wire which gets +12V when the headlights are turned on, this tells the ECM to allow for extra electrical load at idle. In my case, I'm using that when the electric fan comes on for the same reason. Without that input, the idle fluctuates under load.
+1 for getting a wiring diagram!
For engine swaps, the first thing I buy are the manuals for the donor and the recipient. They are invaluable for not just wiring but they usually contain troubleshooting flowcharts.
My first engine swap was a 1991 TPI engine into a 1986 Fiero. Luckily the color codes were very very similar between the two vehicles, but I still spent a lot of time on the floor watching TV with both manuals open and the wiring harnesses from both vehicles spread out.
Also -- don't know if you can still get them, but raid a self service candy or bulk foods shop. They carry (or used to) twist ties with a big paper flag on the end -- very useful to wrap around the wire and label it. Once you have all the wires traced/pinned out, you'll still have to put it on the motor and see which wires will have to be shortened/lengthened to get around the engine compartment and to the ECU.
Good luck! I was only 1 wire off on my first project -- forgot to put 12V to the ECU. Only took about 20 mins to find that since I had one wire with the little paper tag on the end not going to anything (it got tucked into the corrugated loom and not connected).
hth,
-jeff d
There should be plenty of wiring resources at nasioc.com and rs25.com, but i'm guessing you already know about those places.
Do you have anymore pics of the build? I REALLY like 911s w/ wrx engines!
