I refuse...

I refuse to put 5w-20 oil in my wifes 2007 Accord 4 cyl. I must be old. I will put in 5w-30. I can barely do that. Damn the gas mileage, I want 200,000 miles out of this engine.

Ive been running the specified 5w20 in my 03 Civic since new. 180k+ miles, several track days, rallycrosses and autocrosses with no issues.

It's not just gas mileage- it's also about oil circulation. Thick oil has a tough time getting through small spots, so it's possible that the thicker oil will not reach remote spots. Especially when it's cold.

Oil isn't just about pressure- it's also about flow. Flow into tight little bearing clearances.

For you- it should be ok. But the next step up is 10w40, which is much thicker than 20.

Meh, plenty of guys on the BRZ forums using an oil cooler on 0w-20 maintaining good psi and temps even at the track.

I suspect you know more than the Honda engineers who put probably millions of miles in testing the engine in the real world and the dyno.

I run 0W20 Mobil One synthetic as recommended in my 103,000 Accord 2011.

I refuse to go 10,000 miles on an oil change because those injuneers have no idea what they are doing.

Kind of ironic or I'm moronic.

0w20 in civic hybrid. 270K KMS, no oil related issues so far. Doesnt even lose a drop between changes (14k kms). 3 seasons of autox, and probably more time over 5k rpm than any civic ever (thanks cvt)

I change the oil in my mom's Civic since new. 5w20 on an '06 with 200k miles, no problems.

Like I said, I must be old. I am using Mobil 1. And I work at an Acura dealership. I must get this from the TSXs that have a bit more than 100k and need a timing chain replaced. I suspect that those are abused engines, and the techs at work agree that opinion. At least I don't want to use 20w-50...

If it's recommended for the engine and you get good UOA results out of it, I don't see the issue with the 20 weights. Same goes on the heavier stuff. I run M1 0w40 in the Prizm on a 8000 mile interval because it does spec a 40 weight outside of the US (both in passenger cars and the Lotus spec version) and I get good test results.

noddaz wrote: Like I said, I must be old. I am using Mobil 1. And I work at an Acura dealership. I must get this from the TSXs that have a bit more than 100k and need a timing chain replaced. I suspect that those are abused engines, and the techs at work agree that opinion. At least I don't want to use 20w-50...

So how do you guys figure that thicker oil helps the chain, or that thin oil contributed to the failure of the chain? Finally, of the TSX's out there, how many of those failures compared to all of Honda's engines that are spec'ing 5w20?

One of my Honda instructors told us that the K motor chain issues were caused by dirty oil from overdue oil changes and low oil. He said that combo would increase the wear on the links. At least that's the story I was given 6 years ago.

I run 10w30 in my rx8, even though Mazda specs call for 5w20 in the US.. My understanding is that they call for 10w30 everywhere else.

I should probably look into that again and see if it's been debunked.

In reply to WonkoTheSane:

Pretty easy, just go to the Castrol (or whoever you prefer) UK webpage and use their oil look up.

I learned from this thread that I don't put a lot if miles on my cars. I have a 2005 car that I bought new with something like 78k miles on it. That is the highest mileage car I currently own. I think lately I maybe put 5-6k per year on it. Probally less. Makes my head spin that newer cars have over 200k miles. Some people do a lot of driving.

More of what everyone else has said. 0w-20 in our Civic hybrid since new and its closing in on 300,000 miles.

Kenny_McCormic wrote: In reply to WonkoTheSane: Pretty easy, just go to the Castrol (or whoever you prefer) UK webpage and use their oil look up.

Brilliant! I just checked Shell (I'm a Rotella fan), and they recommend 5w30 in Luxembourg, and.. err, 75w90 in the UK.. So, I'm going with the intarwebs rumor mill being correct back in 2006/7 when I bought mine.

noddaz wrote: Like I said, I must be old. I am using Mobil 1. And I work at an Acura dealership. I must get this from the TSXs that have a bit more than 100k and need a timing chain replaced. I suspect that those are abused engines, and the techs at work agree that opinion. At least I don't want to use 20w-50...

what is it that you think 100k timing belt changes have to do with the weight of oil you're using ?

and just an aside, 100k timing belt changes don't seem that outrageous to me … actually pretty normal … some will go longer, plenty will call for shorter interval changes

edit: I see several posts that are referring to timing chains as opposed to timing belts … sure, a chain should last a bit longer … though my F150's chain is being recommended for change sometime in the next 50k (would be approaching 200k then)

but again, does the chain run through an oil bath ? does it have a drip system of some kind ? (serious question, as all my Honda's have had belts, which run dry)

In reply to noddaz:

I'm pretty sure Honda cares more about engine longevity than fuel economy to keep their warranty costs down.

noddaz wrote: I refuse to put 5w-20 oil in my wifes 2007 Accord 4 cyl. I must be old. I will put in 5w-30. I can barely do that. Damn the gas mileage, I want 200,000 miles out of this engine.

A modern engine requires a modern oil. If you want 200k use the manufacturer's recommended oil.

I think I read a while back (no time to look it up now) that manufacturers are looking to go to 0W-0 motor oil for even more extended engine life. Less drag on the motor when starting, especially in colder climates. It will poor like water.

Feedyurhed wrote: I think I read a while back (no time to look it up now) that manufacturers are looking to go to 0W-0 motor oil for even more extended engine life. Less drag on the motor when starting, especially in colder climates. It will poor like water.

On top of the longevity- there's also requirements to not burn oil. Not requirements in documentation, but emissions lifespans mean that oil can not be burnt faster than about 10k miles/qt. So even that thin, it's not going to go away.

And as such, that also means more possibilities of long oil change intervals (which consumers love, but dealers/oil change outlets hate).

Feedyurhed wrote: I think I read a while back (no time to look it up now) that manufacturers are looking to go to 0W-0 motor oil for even more extended engine life. Less drag on the motor when starting, especially in colder climates. It will poor like water.

Having poured both 15w40 Rotella and 0w20 Mobil1 on the same -10C day (about 15°F) I will concur that one pours like molasses and the other pours like water.

An oil thread. I love these.

OP, You should definitely put the wrong oil in your engine because of a feeling you have.

Dirty oil will absolutely wear chains. Steel chains do not "stretch." They get longer because abrasives remove material from the roller pins.

Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote: An oil thread. I love these. OP, You should definitely put the wrong oil in your engine because of a feeling you have.

I love this response! It sums up the attitude I use in all aspects of my life.

Back on topic: I really don't think the manufacturers are trying to screw or mislead owners by recommending a specific oil weight or change interval.