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We hit the track with Flyin' Miata's latest power adder.
Hey, new to the forums over here at GRM, so if I'm in the wrong spot, or this has already been covered, let me know.
I've got a 97 Golf that has been my daily driver, and once-in-a-while autoXer. Long story short, it isn't very reliable as a daily driver anymore, so I'm thinking RallyX might me more fitting.
First step is running new brake lines (the originals are too rusty, no trusty), but since the underside of this car will be subject to RallyX and winter-beater duties from now on, I'm thinking of just running them inside the cabin, rather than below the floorpan.
It seems to me that it will be easier to run the lines (less laying on my back in the garage), easier to maintain the lines (no risk of rust, or debris), and I'll be able to throw in an easy-to-reach adjustable proportioning valve while I'm at it.
Aside from routing the lines tidy and out of the way, is there anything specific I should consider when running inside the car? Is this even worth the trouble, or should I just run them under the car?
I did the same on my race car. I also put the master cylinders inside (tilton overhung pedals), deleted the ABS, added pressure gauges, switch and a proportioning valve. I did the whole thing in AN-3 so its easy to make/break or replace a section or remove the masters to rebuild.
Isn't AN-3 flexible...and expensive? What are the advantages over standard flared steel lines?
AN-3 is simply a standardized size and fitting, can be solid or flexible.
I noticed a forrester chopped up in the junkyard and they ran the brake lines inside the cabin from the factory. I think its a great idea. The only downfall I could think of would be the section leaving the cab going outside, if it corrodes/breaks at that point and you don't have a junction, you need to remove the interior and re-do everything.
However, I think inside brake lines are a great idea especially in rust prone areas.
Be sure to route them is such a way as to be unlikely to get crushed from entry/exit or cargo. Personally if I were running them that way I'd fab some sort of a metal cover to protect them. Also don't think inside = less rust. I've had Subarus and ACVWs that disprove that theory. Otherwise I think its a great idea.
Thanks for all the help guys. I'll make some covers if/when they cross a high-traffic area, but I'm going to try to keep them close to walls or other raised features in the body. And I hear your point about rust inside the car, too. I'll be sure not to run them directly on the floor. I have had to bail out my spare tire well with a soda can before an event, so yeah, this car isn't exactly water-tight
MrMook wrote: Hey, new to the forums over here at GRM, so if I'm in the wrong spot, or this has already been covered, let me know.
Welcome to the forum -- we're a pretty friendly bunch here, and we don't mind revisiting subjects (search RX8s. Miatas, or E30s for lots of examples of how we like to re-hash the same topic many times).
Sounds like a cool project -- the rallycross article in the magazine has piqued my interest.
My '76 Scirocco had brake lines running through the cabin. This was fine until the car began to leak water when a new windshield was installed and the carpet held it there to rot out the lines. I bought all new lines from VW not thinking about the brake fluid that was still in the carpet and the water leak that apparently never was completely fixed, they rotted out again pretty quickly.
However, in a car that is dedicated to RallyX and the lines can be kept dry and out of the way of damage, this might be the way to go.
you can get bulkhead fittings for where the lines pass from inside to outside the cabin. this will make section replacement easier.
aside from that, just route them so you don't have big air traps between the MC and the wheel ends.
MrMook wrote: Isn't AN-3 flexible...and expensive? What are the advantages over standard flared steel lines?
daytonaer summed it up. AN is a spec for fittings. 37* single flare and SAE fine thread.
AN is ARMY-NAVY. They are designed to be assembled and disassembled over and over and still seal. Regular double flares don't seat after a few times. If you have to be constantly be taking things apart they are great. They are a little pricier than ordinary fittings and the flare tool is $$$ (you can rent them from Aircraft Spruce IIRC).
In addition to the maintenance, they are typically used on fuel systems anyway and its nice to have the whole car conform to one standard so you can keep just one drawer full of nuts/fittings/elbows.
Can't say I really know anything about these folks, but:
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