Hey all, I'm working like a ninja to get my Samurai ready for a rally on Saturday (why move it from Sunday to Saturday? WHY!?)
So I drove the Samurai back from the meeting for this same rally. Worked fine, no problems as usual. The next morning it wouldn't crank. It seemed that the battery was drained (hah I wish). A cigarette lighter voltmeter shows less than 6v. Putting the voltmeter right on the battery terminals themselves shows over 10 volts. 
Cleaned up battery terminals, same thing. Now here's the funny part. If I put the voltmeter probes in the dome light, which goes straight to the battery (can be turned on even when ignition is set to OFF), I get over 10 volts. Seems like a bad ignition right? Could it possible be anything else?
I'm about ready to hot-wire this thing.
Edit: Just realized a hot-wire won't pass tech inspection. Crap. 
could you just hot-wire it through a simple high amp toggle switch? with a second for start?
They might let me through with that, but I'm going to see if there's any way I can clean it up. My dad could also pick it up for me tomorrow (can't get to the dealership myself due to work hours), but I shouldn't assume the dealership has any in stock.
Crap, just learned about shear bolts. Anyone know the wire combination to hot-wire this thing? Tryna find it now. I'm gonna have to drop it at the mechanic.
Well I hotwired it at the connector just after the ignition pigtail, I got 10+ volts right where I wired up the ON circuit, but when I connect the starter it's still barely moving, like it's not getting enough power. I'm stumped
Oh and for future reference: To hotwire a Samurai if you already have the key: remove the panel under the steering column, trace the ignition back to its nearest connector and pull it. Connect the two pins nearest the clip for ON, and the two to the right of the clip (if the clip is at the bottom) to crank. It helps to join two U-shaped bits of wire into a W to do this.
It might be the starter relay on top of the ignition...
carzan
HalfDork
4/15/11 5:57 a.m.
OK, I've read the original post about 5 times now and for the life of me, I can't figure out why you haven't replaced the battery.
10 VOLTS isn't enough. You should be at least 11.5V to 12.5. Sounds like you're battery is dead.
KATYB
Reader
4/15/11 7:29 a.m.
im gonna agree...11.8 to 12.8
I know the Swift wouldn't budge the starter on 10.5 volts.... even though it was "only" 1298cc's.
Looks like the battery + ignition might be it. I was using a digital voltmeter that would show 10 or 11 volts, but under 11.8 is considered dead. That's odd, the battery's fairly new. I wonder if I just shook it to death.
KATYB
Reader
4/15/11 7:59 a.m.
sometimes they just die.... or you let it sit too much. or you have a bad alt or something.
I just put a new starter on the RX-7. Since it cranked really slow, and the battery was very old, I figured battery. New battery did the same thing. Twenty plus year old starter was worn out. New starter spins der Wankelmotor like crazy.
Well the battery had a bad cell and the alternator might be bad too. I'll probably be able to get it fixed in the morning, I don't have to be at the event until 1pm.
Looks like it was just the battery, other electrical gremlins are on vacation for now...but I think I should replace the ignition switch. The voltage varies quite a bit if I jiggle the key.
carzan wrote:
OK, I've read the original post about 5 times now and for the life of me, I can't figure out why you haven't replaced the battery.
That was my very first thought. a fully charged battery should be around 12.5 volts.
Battery terminals are always a problem also.
Start from the source, the battery.
The terminals were the first thing I checked, but it turned out it was just a freak sudden failure of the battery.
The course was freakin' hard. Even the grizzled veterans were complaining about that. I had to drop out near the end because my navigator got sick. Still had a good time though. I was looking for some pics to post but none are up yet.
