malibuguy New Reader
Dec. 21, 2016 10:53 p.m.

I cannot think of a better place then here to ask this.

I want to build custom lower control arms for my Yaris, which supposively use the same arms as last gen MR2/S.

I hate the goofy rear bushing that has to deflect for travel. I have Whiteline bushings in the arms. I want to make custom arms with rod-ends for better, real caster & camber adjustment. The Whiteline method(solution??)for caster adjustment is stupid and not consistant.

Now the fab work wont be nothing for me...however I am not sure how to address the balljoint. I'd like to be able to restore the geometry by making it taller.

I see arms for cars built with a rod end as the BJ and what appears to be one big-ass bolt with spacers to adjust the roll-center.

Is it a big bolt thru a hogged out hole in the spindle, or does the taper have to be there?? This is my biggest question, I just do not know whats an acceptable way of addressing this.

I'd have no problem using domestic tall BJs but I doubt any would be the same taper.

Thanks in advance!

stafford1500 Reader
Dec. 21, 2016 11:04 p.m.

There are only two typical tapers 10deg and 7deg. Just about everything now is 7deg. There are several weldable sockets for building your own a-arms using the weldable sockets and the matching ball joints. Making a tapered sleeve that allows a bolt is an option for rod end type outer ball joints.

malibuguy New Reader
Dec. 21, 2016 11:29 p.m.
stafford1500 wrote: There are only two typical tapers 10deg and 7deg. Just about everything now is 7deg. There are several weldable sockets for building your own a-arms using the weldable sockets and the matching ball joints. Making a tapered sleeve that allows a bolt is an option for rod end type outer ball joints.

Sounds like I need to find a common, domestic based tall BJ with a 7* taper and see if it will work then. My end result when I build these arms is fast service. The car is a daily, but I have 3 other cars that I can drive for a day or 2 if I need a replacement BJ, or rod end.

sesto elemento SuperDork
Dec. 22, 2016 7:58 a.m.

Why not just buy some hollywood adjustable ones from che or cusco or whoever?

patgizz UltimaDork
Dec. 22, 2016 8:10 a.m.
sesto elemento wrote: Why not just buy some hollywood adjustable ones from che or cusco or whoever?

Because GRM

jfryjfry Reader
Dec. 22, 2016 8:11 a.m.

To answer your original question, yes guys will drill out the spindle to use a large bolt.

I did it with my car but have not taken it to the track since doing it.

jimbbski Dork
Dec. 22, 2016 11:49 a.m.

I made my own ball joints for my race car. The OEM joint was not tapered but straight with a machined notch in it. When slipped into place a pitch bolt is installed that filled part of the notch and retaining the ball joint stud. On cars with a taper there are some alternatives.

I did a mod for a guy a few years ago that had the last gen. MR2 Spider. I reamed the taper to fit what I could buy off the shelf using race car parts. I used something very similar to what's pictured on this link: https://www.lefthanderchassis.com/v2a/14_viewproduct_product.asp?idproduct=049835500

I can't say how it worked out for the guy but what I made for my race car was similar except that I made the stud myself. I just used some high strength steel, machined it to size, made the notch, and a snap ring groove to retain the stud in the spherical bearing. The stud was retained in the knuckle in OEM fashion. The stud was also taller then OEM by a 1/2 inch. I plan on making a set of taller ones to test next year, and also bump steer the front suspension to see what changes this mod imparts to that. Go to tall and you mess up that whole curve and then have to relocate your steering rack or the tie rod ends.

malibuguy New Reader
Dec. 22, 2016 12:22 p.m.

Thanks for the replies guys.

Ill hit up my local roundy round shop one day and see what they stock.

sesto elemento SuperDork
Dec. 22, 2016 9:02 p.m.
patgizz wrote:
sesto elemento wrote: Why not just buy some hollywood adjustable ones from che or cusco or whoever?

Because GRM

Can't argue with that, I was thinking that op was unaware of availability of aftermarket options.

Knurled MegaDork
Dec. 22, 2016 10:38 p.m.

You can also buy the reamers for 7 and 10 degree taper, if you need to open the hole up for some reason, or if it's juuust not the right taper.

malibuguy New Reader
Dec. 22, 2016 10:43 p.m.

In reply to sesto elemento:

The only stuff I know of is some JDM stuff from MoonFace that for the price of their ball joints I rather build full control arms to the way I like.

Please share this 'hollywood' stuff. Never heard of it.

mainlandboy Reader
Dec. 22, 2016 11:05 p.m.

Would a screw-in style ball joint with a threaded sleeve work for you, like this:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Chrysler-Type-Screw-In-Ball-Joint-w-Sleeve,47344.html

sesto elemento SuperDork
Dec. 23, 2016 8:09 a.m.

Iirc che sells heim jointed control arms. Check out Monkeywrench.com.

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