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Woody wrote:ignorant wrote:And the 35 can take some abuse... If I remember correctly DilysiDave runs one in his lifted wheeling rig.
You can build the 35 into a much stronger unit, but, after the expense, it's better to have just started with a 44 to begin with.
I concur.
I had a 2001 TJ 4cyl 5-speed for about 8 months. I sold it last December for $3500. It had about 63,000 miles on it. I bought it for $750 and put about $1500 in it to make it functional. The year before I bought it it spent sitting on the top parking deck of a condo overlooking the beach. It had no top and a dead battery. It lived by the ocean most its life so it was rusty to begin with.
Cosmetically I replaced the seats, top, radio, painted the dash, and POR 15'd some of the underside. Mechanically all it needed was brake job, shocks and a tune up. The blower would work randomly (never when I wanted it to) and the easy fix ended up not being the problem. I sold it to fund an engagement ring and I wanted to be rid of it before any major issues popped up.
It was stock aside from the 31 BFG AT's on some Centerline Rims. It had plenty of power (read tq and gearing) around town but was horrible on the highway. I beat a 4cyl 2000 ish manual transmission Accord in a little stop light race. We were almost breaking 45mph by the end of the run. I enjoyed driving it but the worry of breaking something expensive kept me from really wheeling it. It handled light mud, soft sand and curbs just fine though. In the end it was worth more to me as cash than as a driver.
Yeah, I'm running a D35 in the back of mine. It's stock, but I'm pretty gentle on it. If you can find one with the 44, it's worth it.
Ok, I've owned 12 jeeps in my 20 years of driving, everything from a "flattie" (46 CJ2A) to WJ's and lots in between. I'll echo what's been said here with a few additions. If you are looking at a YJ, avoid the '87 model years. Those are the ones with the Peugot trans, the BA-10. You can spot these my looking at the trans case itself. If there's a seam that runs from the bell-housing to the output shaft, it's a BA-10 and makes a GREAT boat anchor. Other than that, here are my pics for each generation and why: CJ: Get an 86 CJ-7. Most of these came with the galvanized body, Dana 44 rear and can be had with the T-176 4-speed. These transmissions can take 426 hemi power all day long! Drop the carter carb and get a Motorcraft or Holly or better yet, sway the FI system from a 4.0L and enjoy the extra torque of the 4.2L with the drivability of the 4.0L YJ: They are all the same. Buy a 4 banger. If you want to run big tires pull the 4 banger and drop in a 4.0L and 8.8" from a explorer. Read my comment above about the BA-10, and the 87's also came with the NP205 t-case, TURD. TJ: One word: Rubicon!
Now, about the engine. Buy a 4.0L and get the crank and rods from a 4.2L. Put them together and you come up with a 4.6L stroker. Depending on what crank you get and the year of the 4.2L you can get 4.6L (about) with NO machining. It'll bolt together. I've seen these "bolt together strokers" get 240 hp (up from 220 on the 4.0L H.O.) and 275 lbs. ft.
Fun comparison. I like the closing comment too. 
http://www.jeepnewsnow.com/modules/news/article.php?storyid=3103
I just bought a TJ for $3300. Now to find a place around here to wheel it.
EvanB wrote:I just bought a TJ for $3300. Now to find a place around here to wheel it.
Looks like ya got a good deal there. Nice score.
EvanB wrote:I just bought a TJ for $3300. Now to find a place around here to wheel it.
good deal.
Good deal indeed. This is the time to be buying toys. They are cheap! Where are you located?
Looks like you scored on that one. If you plan on wheeling it much I wouldn't worry about the paint and body. How many miles are on it?
I'm in Ohio. It has around 165k on it but the speedometer gearing was never changed for the 33s so it shows about 198k. Runs good though, no issues.
For the paint I am just planning on fixing the rust on the fenders and doing a rustoleum paint job.
EvanB wrote:I'm in Ohio. It has around 165k on it but the speedometer gearing was never changed for the 33s so it shows about 198k. Runs good though, no issues.
For the paint I am just planning on fixing the rust on the fenders and doing a rustoleum paint job.
The larger tires makes the speedo run slow, not fast. If it shows 198K, and it had 33's from the start, then it is actually ~232K.
Really? When I was going 65 on the freeway bringing it home ( measured by my friend who was driving behind me) the speedo was reading 85. 
