Learn me: High mileage N/A E90s

I've been researching E90s as they've recently come down in price into the affordable range (6-9k with ~80-120k miles depending on luck of the draw)

Pros

• Good powertrain: N/A Port Injection, 328i around me are all N51 so can be tuned easily to close to 330i power. The 325i also can bolt the 3-stage manifold on and get a tune.
• SWMBO Likes the way they look
• Safe by modern standards
• Big enough for rear car seat if a minime appears

Known BMW Stuff to me

• Water pump + T-stat $400
• Bushings : I know this needs to be done but to what end? I see kits for $1100 (Cheapest for front and rear on ECS) Probably can piece it together cheaper on rock auto.
• Starter $220
• Clutch + Dual Mass Flywheel $600 (I'll probably farm this job out when it comes to it though)
• Tires $600
• Battery Registration +$100 tool

Are "new" BMWS that bad? Am I missing anything or being overly paranoid?

A friend recently bought an '06 330i 6 speed with 200k on the clock. It's a nice place to spend time, and so far has been very DIY friendly.

Add this to your list: Passenger side seat occupancy mat ~$500 - This estimates the weight in the passenger seat and turns on/off the airbag as needed. Apparently you can damage it by looking at it funny. Instead of repairing, we opted to disable it via coding.

We have one of that vintage. It eats $1-2k per year of dealer service. I like your service price list. Any chance you live in DistMarVa and will give me the name? Or more likely, that's a price list for the parts. If so, read the shop manual about the jobs and give it some thought. Starter replacement = set aside six hours to remove & replace the entire intake. Leaky oil pan gasket = suspend the engine and remove the front subframe. Replace the battery = get a dealer to re-code the computer.

But, it is one sweet ride. Chassis setup is dead. Solid. Perfect.

In reply to lnlds:

From my short time researching the N51/2 is that outside of the damned electronic water pump, they're one of the most "reliable" inline 6 BMW has put out. I'm not exactly sure about the sedans, but I know the tourings would have issues with water getting in to the battery compartment and what not.

Other than that, not a whole lot of "major" issues that I'm aware of.

Just went past 146,000 miles on our 2008 328xi Sedan.

Replaced shocks, struts, a front diff pinion seal and a rear wheel bearing in the last year -- not anything can really kick about at this mileage. Also replaced windshield as it was getting kind of tough to see through when driving into the sun.

Been running oil analysis as well, and the N52 is coming up clean!

Condition of the wheel bearing was kind of spectacular though. This is what the inner race looked like.

If you don't need the AWD, try to avoid it. No particular problems with it other than you have to go to the dealer for a reset after changing the transfer case fluid, and the AWD system is in the way of most other things you want to get to under the car.

I've maintained my daughter's 06 325i for about 120K miles now (it has about 150K on it) have done thrust arm bushings, water pump and thermostat (preventative), starter (that was a bitch), oil filter housing gasket (2 times), serp belt and tensioner (bolt sheared off) and the occupancy mat was done under warranty...and window regulators (they are pretty cheesy). Overall though, nice cars.

In reply to JBasham: Wow that oil pan gasket replacement looks like a nightmare. Way out of my comfort level. Yeah the estimated costs are all DIY. I plan on tackling everything except for the clutch if that needs to be done. I also plan on tackling all the preventative stuff (Suspension --> Water pump --> Starter) in that order.

In reply to nedc: I better practice push starting it then. Or I can beat up a seller on the price for a 325i vs 328/330 and bolt on the 3-stage intake manifold + starter as one big job. Unfortunately the tensioner bolt shearing is not exclusive the BMWs. Hopefully a c-clamp is a good alternative when the time comes.

In reply to Karacticus: That solidifies me sticking to the RWD version. I've heard steering is better in the RWD version and more diy friendly.

Regarding the tensioner, have done it, though not in the last year, it's nothing to be afraid of, and even OEM parts prices aren't totally outrageous. Twenty minutes tops to do it and the belt as long as you have the right torx (T65?) and a breaker bar -- that spring is stout!

Access was better in the 328 than it was in my Z4.

Oh, I forgot about the tensioner.

It's not just a matter of getting stranded if it fails.

I've seen postings by folks who wound up sucking belt fragments into the motor in places that don't agree well with friction, resulting promptly in blown engines.

In reply to JBasham:

It is a common occurrence. If the belt is hanging off the tensioner by even a hair, replace it. It shreds itself then gets sucked in to the front crank seal and makes it's way to the top end.

The starter job is actually gravy once you've done it once at least. The manifold doesn't have to be removed, just pulled back. Having a set of eTorx helps a lot. If you remove the intake studs from the head you can reach your arm down to slide the starter out without shredding your flesh.

The electric water pump and t-stat is a project, especially on the AWD models. Luckily they can bleed the cooling system automatically since it's electric.

Valve covers leak often (it's a BMW after all) and is a 4-5 hour (book time) job. Always check your crankcase pressure before replacing the gasket. The PCV is integral to the valve cover on most of them and also has a high failure rate.

Oil pan gaskets are also common failures (as mentioned). On a lift with an engine cradle and a pole jack they aren't a big deal. I couldn't imagine trying to DIY one in the garage.

Just like the M54, the profile gaskets (oil filter housing) leak. Luckily they are super easy to replace.

Proper batteries are not cheap and you absolutely need to program the DME afterwards, especially if you change the type (AGM/lead acid) or Amp Hour capacity.

Ignition coils. Buy them in bulk. Although the latest iteration of Delphis seem to be holding up.

Ack theres no room for a spare tire either? And I have to buy one separately. My estimated TCO keeps rising.