My MK11 MR2 got t-boned yesterday so I'm looking at other options and the older datsun 240/60/80z's have always interested me. How does the handling compare? Best years? Any good reasons to run away?
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Aug. 22, 2009 9:36 p.m. mr2peak New Reader
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Aug. 22, 2009 10:38 p.m. ddavidv SuperDork
Rust. In amounts rarely seen even on Italian cars. The front floorpans and unibody frame rails were notorious for rot on these along with nearly every outer body panel. If you can find a solid one, then they are definately worth a look.
Was it only the 280Z that had FI? I think the carbs on these could be a bit fickle.
The only one I ever drove was very peppy for a car of it's vintage. The handling is lost to memory, but I think I was a bit underwhelmed at the time. I do know I felt like the car was made of tinfoil when I shut the door. Dash pads always cracked, seat upholstery wasn't particularly durable. In spite of all this, I would still like to have one someday.
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Aug. 22, 2009 11:13 p.m. skruffy Dork
Rust indeed. Mine is rusty in every conceivable place. Anywhere that isn't rusty was repaired incorrectly at some point in time, and there's usually rust underneath the repair when I start to correct the shoddy bodywork.
When you go look at one, look for rust. When you're sure there's no rust, look some more. Also be on the lookout for crappy modifications, as these cars have undoubtedly changed hands a half dozen times by now. Otherwise they're very simple cars.
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Aug. 23, 2009 12:40 a.m. ww SuperDork
The 240Z from 1970 to 1972 has the best "round top" carbs. Most 1973's had "flat top/emissions" carbs and most have had their carbs replaced with those from a '70 to '72 by now.
The 260Z is interesting, but was only offered for one year, 1974 and there's nothing really notable or unusually desirable about them.
The 280Z was sold from 1975 to 1978 and all are fuel injected. It's very simple and very reliable.
Handling is only as good as the aftermarket parts you put on it. Stock was excellent for the day, but is equivalent to a Ford Crown Vic (non-P71) today.
Rust, when not everywhere, is found in very specific areas:
- Under Battery Tray
- In the spare tire well
- Rear fender "dog leg's"
- Front fender's on the bottom
- Front cowl
- Rear hatch deck lid
Front "Frame" rails are generally crunched by stupid auto repair shops lifting them incorrectly causing them to rust.
For all the "real" information about how the early Z car, check out: http://www.zhome.com and specifically: http://www2.zhome.com:81/ibuttons.html#Ownership for what/how to buy a Z car.
There is ABSOLUTELY NO first generation Z Car... ON THE PLANET that is "Rust Free". If you see one advertised like this, the seller is either ignorant or lying. Either way, be VERY thorough with your inspection.
Good luck.
P.S. Here's mine:
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Aug. 23, 2009 7:45 a.m. pete240z Dork
usually all you need is a good bucket of bondo.....
This is the Z you get for $300. Solid Wisconsin car.
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Aug. 23, 2009 8:10 a.m. cwh Dork
That silver car is incredible. Much more than a new 370z, probably considerably more money as well. Wonderful choice of power. I have enjoed 3 early Z cars. All were fun and spirited, not real fast. Easy to work on, tons of room under the hood. Actually 2 of them were rust free, Florida cars. Not as clean as a true Cali car, but close.
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Aug. 23, 2009 8:32 a.m. skruffy Dork
you may need to check on your web server ww
http://safebrowsing.clients.google.com/safebrowsing/diagnostic?client=Firefox&...
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Aug. 23, 2009 10:15 a.m. Jensenman SuperDork
Sorry your Mister Two got clobbered. I like those cars.
The FI'ed 280Z is probably the best of the bunch even though it's also the heaviest. The FI is caveman so it's easy to diag/repair/upgrade. The 280 ZX is porky and IMHO not a real great car (I'm sure someone out there with a ZX is now loading their shotgun!
) but a lot of their stuff (including the turbo motors etc) drops right in to earlier cars, Z cars are like old Chevys in that everything interchanges. Probably the best thing the ZX has going for it is the availability of rack and pinion steering. I think that's a reasonably easy retrofit but I've never done one.
It's going to handle a good bit differently from the 2, in no small part because you are sitting just ahead of the rear wheels and this makes for some interesting 'butt dyno' inputs. Like pretty much everything, in stock form it tends to understeer. There's a ton of information out there on how to make them handle, there's a blue one which shows up at SCR-SCCA AX events which is nicely sorted and can lay down some amazing times.
Rust, just like everyone said yes they do. Down here the main culprit is the 'front frame rails', for some reason they collect and hold water and mud and then rust from the inside out. You don't see much, if any, fender rust because there's no road salt. The battery box (like just about any car) is another favorite rot hole.
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Aug. 23, 2009 11:21 a.m. Datsun1500 Dork
The 78 280Z is the best in my opinion. Last year of the Z, not ZX, fuel injected and 5 speed. That is the only way to get fuel injected and 5 speed, the earlier cars were 4 speed, makes a big difference in day to day driving, they also happen to be the cheapest because of the big bumpers....
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Aug. 23, 2009 2:22 p.m. mr2peak New Reader
Cool thanks for the wealth of information! I'm pretty sure I'd get a pre-75 car so I don't have to worry about smog. Is there a large premium for earlier cars with later engines and 5 speed swaps? Do mods generally add to the value of Z's or take away from it? Any easy head swapping between cars or is it an "add a turbo" kinda car? Definitely sounds like a magnet is invaluable when checking the car out.
ww gorgeous car!
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Aug. 23, 2009 4:51 p.m. Datsun1500 Dork
If you are going to do a swap, get a 260 instead of a 240, they are cheaper. Mods don't usually add or detract value unless you are swapping an original, early, 240, then it hurts. If you are looking at a "driver" type car then swap away. Stock is 150HP, not too slow from the factory. A 74 260Z with a ZX turbo drivetrain dropped in would be a hot ride.
