learn me TD04-15G turbochargers

And their cheap bolt in upgrades. How much boost can these put out? Looks like they top out around 400ish cfm if the interwebz are to be believed.

Thanks!

TD04 is the turbocharger design and housing. The 15g is a representation of the compressor size. I have seen these turbos range from a 13g up to a 20g (maybe bigger?)

From my experience a 16g will/can make about 350hp on a 2.0L engine.

What application are you considering?

What you are bolting it to and how it is going to be used is where you start and then match a turbo to those factors.

Or you can be like me and find a really cool turbo. Then you go looking for a car to bolt it to.

1.6 miata with the intercooler setup it seems to spike early then struggle to push 10psi after the initial spike. So I'm wondering if there is a cheap bolt on upgrade or do I need to suck it up and go get a different manifold and turbo. The power goal is 250-275 whp.

I've never seen a 16G on a td04 turbine thats a huge imbalance. Biggest I've seen is a 20t which is smaller than a 16G. And even then theres 3-4 different turbine sizes that fit in the td04 setup and the biggest of them belong with the biggest of the compressor wheels. Even then the 20t and the highest flowing turbine section is still really choked unless you are running one of the huge A/R volvo turbine housings. 16G and larger pretty much found on the td05 and td06 variants. I'd avoid the td04 unless your engine is 1.8 liters and under and your goal is less than 260hp, or if it came stock on the motor. Anything above either of those and you should go with a td05 and appropriately sized compressor wheel.

a small 16g is what you want for your desired power level. They're also super cheap and incredible plentiful.

On the miata any of the "performance" td04s would be fine for the 250 goal; 13t, 19t, 20t, 15g.

It sounds like you have a Greddy setup maybe on the 1.6. Your problem is 100% the E36 M3ty ass greddy waste gate actuator.

Leafy wrote: On the miata any of the "performance" td04s would be fine for the 250 goal; 13t, 19t, 20t, 15g. It sounds like you have a Greddy setup maybe on the 1.6. Your problem is 100% the E36 M3ty ass greddy waste gate actuator.

That or the small pipe coming out the back of the turbo to attach to the small stock exhaust that 1.6L originally shat exhaust gases out of .

What mods do you have? I used a Greddy for awhile. I still have the ETD manifold, hopeless exhaust pipe, and turbo from it.

He's got some nut-job SSM Miata using a Borg Warner EFR with the boost turned down enough that his 5spd survives.

E36 M3's dumb. (I really only say that because i enjoy giving Leafy E36 M3.)

Xceler8x wrote:

Leafy wrote: On the miata any of the "performance" td04s would be fine for the 250 goal; 13t, 19t, 20t, 15g. It sounds like you have a Greddy setup maybe on the 1.6. Your problem is 100% the E36 M3ty ass greddy waste gate actuator.

That or the small pipe coming out the back of the turbo to attach to the small stock exhaust that 1.6L originally shat exhaust gases out of . What mods do you have? I used a Greddy for awhile. I still have the ETD manifold, hopeless exhaust pipe, and turbo from it.

Yes the greddy setup, though the only thing left is the turbo and manifold, and the manifold has been modded. So yeah, from everything I've read the turbo should get us to our power goals, but it's falling flat on it's face.

As for mods, 550's, 255 walboro, aftermarket fpr, FMIC, squirt, dual feed rail. Looking at COP as the next step, but seems like I need to get that wastegate off and take a look first.

Pretty sure we fabbed a large by huge downpipe and dumped it between the driver/passenger seat.

Kinugawa should have a pimpy billet actuator for cheap that wouldn't take someone like you any time to get on your turbo.

This setup is already on the car. We are not trying to spec the ideal setup, we are trying to diagnose what we've got, and make changes in Challenge budget.

In reply to Spinout007:

You and I should talk.

I've had the watergate off and checked it out. It was not closing, which I fixed. It moves freely, and should now be sealing well (though I can certainly double check)

What else would you like to know?

I'd wager the wastegate isn't shutting fully or is opening early. Somethings up with the thing that controls your boost pressure.

..that or you have a boost leak somewhere. Maybe in the charge tubes? Here is how to build a boost leak check tool. Idea is you pressurize your charge tubes and check for leaks. Easiest way I can think of is once the tubes are pressurized I'd spray the joints with a soapy fluid of some kind. Look for bubbles. There's your leak.

I think that may be a good place to start, seeing as how there is no BOV or relief valve.

Already built a boost leak check tool, pressurized, and checked.

Will check again.

Gene, I still think the manual boost control valve is wonky.

When we completely blocked the reference hose to the wastegate we had 14 psi at 1/4 throttle and 20 psi (and raging nasty boost cut ) at anything more. When we adjust the bleeder valve we get 15psi spike and then the boost drops to 10-12 psi and holds steady until we shift. If this is just a crappy wastegate actuator and boost control system would controlling it with the megasquirt ebc/solenoid setup be enough or do we need a better wastegate actuator as well?

SVreX wrote: Already built a boost leak check tool, pressurized, and checked. Will check again. Gene, I still think the manual boost control valve is wonky.

I do think the combo isn't playing nice together. I think We get the boost we want until the wastegate actuator sees enough boost to open. Then it opens all the way and stays open even though our boost falls below our desired levels.

I'd try a new MBC first.

Is there any chance the wastegate's spring is a 10psi spring? I know I had to help the Raptor's PO change one to get more than 12psi even with the pimpy ams-1000 EBC on there.

MrJoshua wrote:

SVreX wrote: Already built a boost leak check tool, pressurized, and checked. Will check again. Gene, I still think the manual boost control valve is wonky.

I do think the combo isn't playing nice together. I think We get the boost we want until the wastegate actuator sees enough boost to open. Then it opens all the way and stays open even though our boost falls below our desired levels.

Double check on miataturbo.net, this sounds exactly like symptoms of owning a miata greddy wastegate actuator.

In reply to yamaha:

6psi spring.

In reply to Leafy:

Thanks, we will read up on it. That sounds like a fixable problem.

In reply to MrJoshua:

Hmm, any chance that could be your problem? My only experience with this is the turbo bike, which has all decade old pimpy turbonetics stuff.

MrJoshua wrote: In reply to yamaha: 6psi spring.

Yeah but that 20psi. spike!!!! OMG WTF DID I STRAP MYSELF INTO?!?!?!

When you stop it's like I WANT MOAR!!!!