Anyone know if there is some kind of list of sensor models or types known to work with Megasquirt? An MS3X specifically, in this case.
What I want to check most are the JDM 4AGE MAP, IAT, 1-wire O2 and coolant temp sensor; and any modern Toyota stepper-type IAC valves.
Isn't the MAP built into the MS3 units? It was on the MS1 and MS2 units.
Any CTS/IAT sensor can be made to work as they all work essentially the same and if they don't follow the same voltage to temperature curve as the GM sensors do, you can adjust this in the code loaded on the ECU.
Stepper motors are stepper motors, nothing magic there really.
One thing to think about, you don't have to implement all of the systems at once. Start with just the basic pieces to get the engine running and a base tune configured, then you can add things like stepper motor driven idle control (once warmed up it isn't really necessary), etc.
There is a built-in MAP but I want to use that one for barometric reference. I'd rather not have to mod it with a mapdaddy kit.
This engine will be running ITBs so it requires a working IAC and will probably have a good bit of flow going through it when idling at full operating temperature.
I'm running ITB's and I don't have an IAC on the car. Works just fine, idle is a little low at first, but once it warms up all is well, runs just fine.
MegaSquirt will understand the OEM MAP, you may have to tweak some of the settings to get the range correct, but it will work just fine.
I also hope you're planning on using a Wideband to tune with before switching to a 3 or 4 wire narrow band oxygen sensor. 1 wire sensors aren't worth the effort. But MS will read the 1 wire sensor just fine.
If you're using a MAP for barometric correction, then why do you need another MAP? Blended mode?
If you're doing blended mode, then your baro correction will be built in anyways. No real use for two MAPs as far as i can tell on an ITB setup.
<--- Also running ITBs with no IAC, and only using MAP for barometric correction. (But not Megasquirt)
Yeah blended mode (although I'll probably be running alpha-N at first), but for blended mode with barometric correction do I not need a second, "ambient" MAP sensor?
I wouldn't think so... If you think about it, all the baro MAP would be doing is passing information to compensate for density. Which, you'll already have if you're using a MAP in blended, inherently.
At least, i would ASSume.
Found out that the MS can work with any 5v linear MAP sensor, and the one the 4AGE 20Vs use at least meet those specs. Good enough for me, that means I won't have trouble finding parts. The MS uses a lot of GM sensors and those are hard to find here.
Edit: Also been thinking about a 14point7 Spartan Wideband. The price difference between the MS3X and the AEM EMS-4 a mechanic's been pushing me towards would leave room for lots of goodies. He's warned me that setup can be a huge PITA, which yes is an issue, so I'd want to use the MS DIYBOB and put non-stock sensors on a separate connector so I can take my time to get it running and plug the stock ECU back in any time before I take the plunge by switching to ITBs and doing other things the stock ECU can't handle.
Just tallied it up, I can get a built MS3X, BOB, hall effect sensor and the 14point7 Spartan Lambda for less than the cost of an AEM EMS-4 alone...
How much are you getting the AEM for? (I still vote MS anyways, just curious.)
Retail price on their site is $885 but now that I shop around I see some as low as $750 - putting it in the same range as the MS3X + BOB.
ITB's and MAP sensors don't mix. Better to use throttle position and RPM. I've put about 80K miles on a megasquirted 4age20v, so, yeah, I'm calling myself an expert on that.
So I should use alpha-N mode, with or without barometric correction?
WITH barometric correction.
And if you're using Megasquirt, you should think about using "blended" mode for tuning, instead of just straight Alpha-N.
That said, the Escort runs Alpha-N with the onboard MAP on the Haltech tasked with barometric correction.
(Edit: I see i have already pretty much posted this. )
Yeah looks like I'm going with an MS2 now (upgrade to MS2/Extra later). It'll save me a little money and I like to use open stuff, and the mechanic built this one himself so I get local warranty support