GameboyRMH wrote:
Haha shipping would kill you 
and I'm trying to stick to Japanese stuff since American cars aren't too common here and junkyard/parts store support is poor. I'll go for 1ZZ, I only considered something else because I noticed a sweet deal.
Where are you? Seriously DHL is not bad, I have shipped things from Aus using DHL and it was quite reasonable AND even there standard shipping is faster than the USPS from Florida to Massachusetts. Bet it would be $20-30 to ship you one or two. I just got a kokeshi doll shipped from Japan for a Xmas present for my wife and it was only $7. A coil is about the same size and weight.
Maybe a dumb question, but why?
Why do you need an LS1 coil, or any other coil for that matter?
Nashco wrote:
DILYSI Dave wrote:
The truck stuff is actually hotter.
LS Truck coils, stacked into a coil pack, on a Honda D16A6 -
Dave...hate to hijack the thread, but can you tell (or link to) more about this setup on the D16? Curious what engine management is being used and with what timing sensor(s).
Bryce
MS2, and a 36-1 crank wheel.
carguy123 wrote:
Maybe a dumb question, but why?
Why do you need an LS1 coil, or any other coil for that matter?
In my case, 2 reasons - The LS coils were hotter, which given the 14:1 compression seemed worthwhile, and more importantly, the OE distributor couldn't deliver a solid spark past 8200 RPM, and I wanted to spin it to 9000.
What about keeping the plug wires but upgrading to a stronger coil pack, like from a 4G63? Is something like that possible?
For E36 M3s and giggles I did some looking up on COP conversions for the 4G63 and the general consensus is the stock setup is plenty powerful unless you are boosting the engine to within a millimeter of its life. IIRC, the N/A and turbo 4G63s in the DSMs use the same coil packs. Maybe it's the same way for overseas 4G6x-powered cars? So even if there's no Evos in the Barbados junkyards, a coil pack from a 4G6x-powered Hyundai or Mirage might work as well.
The reasons for going to CoP are:
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Allowing the ECU to control ignition timing - I have to install a crank and/or cam sensor to get a fixed timing input anyway. This allows for a spark-retard rev limiter, flex fuel compensation, and better idle control.
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The distributor is the reliability weakpoint of 4A-series engines, and one of the harder parts to find in a junkyard. I've had the car down for over 6 months before due to a failed dizzy, I had to pull one off a car in another country that I'm still using today (although to be fair, one guy did want to sell one locally, for about the value of the whole engine it came off of.) Also with a CoP setup you don't have to worry about a dead distributor, plug wire problems (for 1ZZ-like modules), single-point-of-failure ignition coil, or bad plug wire. Carrying one spare CoP module will greatly reduce the chance of needing a tow.
Nashco wrote:
In the case of a typical pushrod Vx engine, coil near plug (CNP) makes plenty of sense. Reliability, packaging, cost, etc. Try getting a set of coil packs to survive hanging off a Vsomething while cantilevered above the exhaust manifold and you'll get it.
In a DOHC I4 a coil ON plug makes much more sense, which is why it's so common. In the case of retrofits and aftermarket stuff, there's a TON of CNP stuff you can get for cheap that performs great, has good documentation, and packages easily, so you see a lot of them even in retrofits on DOHC I4s (as shown above).
Bryce
Another factor: A lot of the coils that are used on plugs are physically smaller than LS1 coils and unable to store as much energy. The fact that LSx coils are under fewer packaging constraints lets them design a hotter coil.
