MGB-GT: Engine choices, what to do?

Good MGA to Miata swap going on also and it would be relevant to your case. Pretty much a walk-through.

http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?40,3107418

The Zetec as used in the ZX2 is rear sump. I checked.

just to put it out there....

4AGE with T50??? Or if you want to keep the "1800" build a 7AGE.

Power for a mild built 4AGE around 140-150hp, for a 7AGE closer to 160, or 170

Hits the DOHC, and carb button (if you so choose), or can go with ITBs if you'd prefer. As far as a point based ignition, Id say you'll need something else so you can get the advance you want.

I would totally do a 1.8 or 1.6 Miata swap. It looks right, it's got enough power to make the GT interesting, it's already mated to a fantastic transmission, it's pretty cheap and it's been done a couple of times. Really, why make it more difficult?

But I'd keep the fuel injection. Carbs might be more mechanical than FI, but they suck - no pun intended. You're not driving the car now because it's not fun to drive and it's a pain in the ass. Make it easy to drive and you'll drive it. Going to carbs will be more expensive, use more fuel, mess up the drivability, involve extra tuning and will only fill you with warmth and happiness when you are admiring the view underhood after you've just twiddled with them. I am saying this as a guy who just put a wideband O2 sensor on his SU-equipped Mini and is now a bit scared to drive it after seeing the horror of carbureted air/fuel ratios.

I'd also keep the electronic ignition because it'll keep working without you touching it for 100,000 miles and the packaging is better without the dizzy sticking out of the back of the head into your heater box. Then you just drive the car.

All Miata transmissions have an overdrive top gear with the exception of the 2016 'box. They just don't have a goofy electrical switch to get there

I almost put a Miata engine/trans in my "spare" engineless GT after I was done with the LS swap. I didn't need another car, though, so I sold it and now it's running around Albuquerque with an MGB 1800 in it.

I think some magazine is also in the middle of doing a Miata > MGB swap right now...

I'd be all over the Miata engine. Its got to be easy to find a rustbucket to get all the bits you need, and it will look like it belongs there.

Keep the EFI.

Where is the site with the build thread from the guy who put the Neon twincam into the Midget? That guy had some stupid big fabrication skills.

Edit: And here it is on Neons.org. He sold the thing on page 10 of the thread. I guess he'd rather build than drive.

https://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=369388

A Miata swap would be much easier.

oldeskewltoy wrote: just to put it out there.... 4AGE with T50??? Or if you want to keep the "1800" build a 7AGE. Power for a mild built 4AGE around 140-150hp, for a 7AGE closer to 160, or 170 Hits the DOHC, and carb button (if you so choose), or can go with ITBs if you'd prefer. As far as a point based ignition, Id say you'll need something else so you can get the advance you want.

This was exactly my first thought. And adding boost is a tried and true upgrade.

I would pull it across with the oe efi wiring and ecu. Get it running and enjoy. Virtually bullet proof and there are many different directions you can then take it.

Ohya and 7400 redline in stock form.

I dropped a Rover 3.9 about 15 years ago The BOP bell-housing will fit right up to the T5. Stick a pair of off the shelf RV8 headers on it. Can't think of anything that would be much simpler than that. Tons of info online about the swap, and even a book devoted to the swap. Lots of Rover engine's for cheap money. The bigger question is what to do with the rear. The stock 3.9 is next to useless with the T5 first gear. Jag IRS, narrowed Ford, etc. What you do with the rear, will have a large impact on the swap. The B with the 3.9 was a lot of fun to drive.

iceracer wrote: The Zetec as used in the ZX2 is rear sump. I checked.

Nice, thanks!

There's a rusty TR8 in Va for $2500 and a rusty TR8 in Fl for $2100. There's your complete driveline. Picking up a Buick/Rover engine is the easy part. Then you need to go find a bell housing, flywheel, clutch, headers, oil pan, timing cover, distributor, 4 barrel intake, and a carb. Granted, whatever you purchase for an engine may one with some of those pieces. Unless you buy a rusty TR8 or Rover SD1, you will be looking for these parts, and there are more people trying to find and buy them than there are people willing to sell them. Last two TR8 drivelines I sold were posted on the MG forum for $1500. Both were gone in under an hour. Thats why when that go kart thingy with 4 Buick/Olds engines was for sale on here a few weeks ago for $1900, I jumped all over it. Rebuild your MGB engine and drive your car. Engine swaps take time, resources, and lots of money.

XLR99 wrote: I think some magazine is also in the middle of doing a Miata > MGB swap right now...

Haha yep. And I even ordered the back issues from when they covered it in 2007 or so (ordered last year at some time).

Can you guys tell ive been thinking about this for too long?

Keith and streetwise.

Yeah, I hear you on getting it running on efi. Especially to start.

Oldskewl and Dean,

What cars do the t50 trans come from? Celica supras? Looks like a neat alternative, but I have always felt it is not a single source swap, so finding parts can be tough.

In reply to wake74:

Thanks for the info. I really would rather stay away from reengineering the rear as well, and that does put a damper on v8 or big power options.

In reply to tr8todd:

I was very close to jumping on that deal too. Glad it went to a good home.

I didn't realize tr8s were available in that price range, and they would be a good single source donor. However, it is still pretty expensive for what it is. I agree.

tr8todd wrote: Rebuild your MGB engine and drive your car.

There is wisdom here. I keep coming back to this. About once every three days.

There is a once per year mg/triumph/jag swap meet in Chicago happening this Sunday.

I will be checking it out, just in case, you know. http://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/swapmeet/index.html

Robbie wrote: In reply to tr8todd: I was very close to jumping on that deal too. Glad it went to a good home. I didn't realize tr8s were available in that price range, and they would be a good single source donor. However, it is still pretty expensive for what it is. I agree.

it's funny.. as somebody who prefers the looks of the 124 spider over the X1/9.. I prefer the TR7/8 over the MGB. Especially since I still see the occasional MGB on the road.. but cannot remember the last time I saw a TR7/8

Robbie wrote:

tr8todd wrote: Rebuild your MGB engine and drive your car.

There is wisdom here. I keep coming back to this. About once every three days.

So, do you do a little work and end up with a car you don't really like that much, or do you do a bit more work and end up with a car you like a lot more?

It's pretty obvious where I fall on that particular spectrum (do a LOT more work and end up with a car that wants you dead), but it's something you have to decide. Rebuilding the MG engine doesn't make a lot of sense if you'll end up tearing it out again later because it bothers you. Luckily, you know what the car's like with an MG 1800, so you can make an educated decision in that regard. I barely drove mine with the original engine before it basically committed suicide.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_T_transmission#T50

Most of the TR8s have fallen into the hands of real enthusiasts. Many of us own more than 1. You just need to know where to look for them. Rusty ratty restore as you go models are just about a thing of the past. I'd bet that most of the ones left are either in great shape or are undergoing long term restorations. Most of the nice ones out there are modified. Finding a nice original one is rare. I'll be the first one to admit that stock ones are slow and a pain to work on. Clean up the engine bay with headers and a 4 barrel and do some suspension and wheel work, and you have a completely different car. They become much quicker, easier to work on and believe it or not, pretty darn reliable for a 35-40 year old car.

oldeskewltoy wrote: just to put it out there.... 4AGE with T50??? Or if you want to keep the "1800" build a 7AGE. Power for a mild built 4AGE around 140-150hp, for a 7AGE closer to 160, or 170 Hits the DOHC, and carb button (if you so choose), or can go with ITBs if you'd prefer. As far as a point based ignition, Id say you'll need something else so you can get the advance you want.

I thought about this, but then I thought about parts rarity (especially on a 16v). You can replace almost everything with aftermarket parts, but that's very expensive, and the few parts you can't replace could leave your engine dead while you scrounge around like a WW2 fighter plane owner.

Robbie wrote:

tr8todd wrote: Rebuild your MGB engine and drive your car.

There is wisdom here. I keep coming back to this. About once every three days.

I thought about this as well, but that's a real relic in there. Much better efficiency, power and reliability could be had.

mad_machine wrote:

Robbie wrote: In reply to tr8todd: I was very close to jumping on that deal too. Glad it went to a good home. I didn't realize tr8s were available in that price range, and they would be a good single source donor. However, it is still pretty expensive for what it is. I agree.

it's funny.. as somebody who prefers the looks of the 124 spider over the X1/9.. I prefer the TR7/8 over the MGB. Especially since I still see the occasional MGB on the road.. but cannot remember the last time I saw a TR7/8

Ha! I thought about this late last night too. I was like, geez, if Im gonna buy a TR8, I think I'd just drive that.

Keith Tanner wrote:

Robbie wrote:

tr8todd wrote: Rebuild your MGB engine and drive your car.

There is wisdom here. I keep coming back to this. About once every three days.

So, do you do a little work and end up with a car you don't really like that much, or do you do a bit more work and end up with a car you like a lot more? It's pretty obvious where I fall on that particular spectrum (do a LOT more work and end up with a car that wants you dead), but it's something you have to decide. Rebuilding the MG engine doesn't make a lot of sense if you'll end up tearing it out again later because it bothers you. Luckily, you know what the car's like with an MG 1800, so you can make an educated decision in that regard. I barely drove mine with the original engine before it basically committed suicide.

It doesn't help that I think I could do the whole miata swap just for the price I can get for selling my MGB OD transmission.