tbh
tbh
1/17/13 11:23 p.m.

My 2000 Miata SE just won't start. It's getting gas to the cylinders (pulled plugs). Cranks but won't fire.

Coincidentally, I found this video on YouTube that sounds just like mine: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8htMGKsDVhg

I'm thinking either coil pack or cam sensor. Any ideas?

AverageH
AverageH New Reader
1/18/13 1:15 a.m.

So will it never start, as in once it's cold or has been sitting a while? M2's are notorious for coils going bad. This would be my first angle. I had my Cam Angle Sensor die on my '97, and it would only start when cold, but then it would die once it was warm. I'm not talking the Crank Angle Sensor either, which is the $80 part down at the crank on my '97 (I think they were moved on the M2's). Anyway, I had major difficulty tracking down my problem, and since I have an Hydra ecu, there were no codes to diagnose the problem. Everyone told me it was a bad ground, and that the CAS rarely ever go bad. Well, after checking all of my grounds, it turns out that it was the CAS, which unfortunately was a $400 part. I'm not an expert on M2's, so I'm sure there are some peeps on the forum that may be more helpful, but if I were to guess, it'd be your coils or something ignition related. I'm I being a little too vague ? Good luck!

-Hamid

Warren v
Warren v New Reader
1/18/13 3:50 a.m.

Like AverageH said, the NB had issues with coil packs before going to the coil-on-plug design in the 2001 update. I suspect the chronic plug wire cracking and grounded out sparks exacerbate the problem. Have you pulled a plug to see if you're getting a solid spark? Make sure to leave the threads touching a metal part of the engine unless you want some cool sparks. Don't turn the car over without a sparkplug attached to the coils, you'll fry the coils pretty quickly.

Do you have a CEL? Friend with a scanner?

Does your tach move at all when you turn it over? If no, your ECU isn't getting a trigger and your coils are not the (only) problem. That could mean cam or crank. I had a crank sensor go out on a 00 SE that caused this. That was my first car trouble in California; I quickly learned that it's actually illegal to diagnose/fix your car in a parking lot in that crazy state! That crank sensor needs a small gap from the sensor wheel (business card is the standby hall effect gap gauge). Check all your wiring to the crank and cam sensors, it could be something that simple. Also, I had an Exocet die on me on I-285 once when the cam position sensor bolt backed out, so look for that. The engine had been rebuilt and the CPS wasn't locked down after setting the timing.

M030
M030 HalfDork
1/18/13 5:50 a.m.

Check for fuel then for spark, report back with your findings for further diagnosis

wbjones
wbjones UberDork
1/18/13 5:57 a.m.
Warren v wrote: That was my first car trouble in California; I quickly learned that it's actually illegal to diagnose/fix your car in a parking lot in that crazy state!

I've always known that PRC was berkeleyed up ... but this ???????

Autolex
Autolex Dork
4/21/13 5:21 p.m.

My Miata (99 NB, 65k miles) is STILL not starting (it stopped starting in october, and i haven't been able to get it running at all this winter)... I've Replaced CAS (cam), made sure the gap on the CPS (crank) sensor was correct, recharged a (completely dead) battery. When I crank it, nothing happens on the tachometer (doesn't move up at all)... any ideas? it's acting like it's not getting fuel. I'd really like to get this thing running in the next week. I've missed driving it over the winter.

Autolex
Autolex Dork
4/21/13 5:36 p.m.

Also, the Relay/Fusable Link under the hood marked "MAIN" (80A) seems to be frozen in it's socket (either that or it's REALLY hard to remove?). I'm not sure what this controls. I AM getting spark, I am getting Air, guessing fuel isn't getting delivered (either FP or Injectors not firing?) I've reseated the "MAIN" relay in the box under the hood too, to no avail (the green one).

Autolex
Autolex Dork
4/21/13 5:52 p.m.

I will probably have time to run through THIS procedure on wednesday afternoon, I think it may provide me some insight. Any other ideas?

unk577
unk577 Reader
4/21/13 5:54 p.m.

The " main 80" is screwed in underneath the box

Autolex
Autolex Dork
4/21/13 6:00 p.m.

ah! that makes a lot of sense then! Thank you

peter
peter HalfDork
4/21/13 6:18 p.m.

did you do a timing belt or replace the harmonic balancer/crank pulley recently? if you got the orientation wrong on the 4-tooth wheel behind that balancer/pulley, it will not start.

Autolex
Autolex Dork
4/21/13 6:32 p.m.

nope. original timing belt/water pump/harmonic damper. and I pulled the oil cap and watched the exhaust side cam lobes rotate as my buddy cranked it.

Autolex
Autolex Dork
5/1/13 8:47 p.m.

ran the diagnostics, getting spark in all 4 cylinders, air in the tb, voltage to the FP, but it's not running (even pulled it and hooked up the connector with the diag in fp jumper mode, still didn't turn on)... sounding like a Fuel Pump! Is OEM the best route here? if I go FM Voodoo in the future will OEM support ~175-200 hp?

iceracer
iceracer UberDork
5/2/13 9:37 a.m.

It takes four (4) things for an engine to run.

Fuel

Ignition (spark)

Compression

and all at the right time.

find out which one is missing.

Also, cranking speed can be a factor. fully charged battery.

Keith Tanner
Keith Tanner MegaDork
5/2/13 9:50 a.m.

Factory fuel pump will handle as much power as the stock engine internals can, no worry there. OE ones do have an excellent reliability record and they won't overwhelm your stock FPR like an aftermarket one can.

Autolex
Autolex Dork
5/2/13 3:37 p.m.
Keith Tanner wrote: Factory fuel pump will handle as much power as the stock engine internals can, no worry there. OE ones do have an excellent reliability record and they won't overwhelm your stock FPR like an aftermarket one can.

sounds good. Any GRM Friendly OEM Mazda Parts reseller? I'd like a plug-and-play version.

Keith Tanner
Keith Tanner MegaDork
5/2/13 3:57 p.m.

Most GRM friendly? Mazda Motorsports Very easy to become a member, all you have to do is race 3 times a year IIRC.

Otherwise, try Med Center Mazda with the obvious URL.

Swank Force One
Swank Force One MegaDork
5/2/13 4:00 p.m.

Rosenthal Arlington/Finishline is pretty good otherwise.

I really need to get on the Mazda Motorsports thing. Would have been helpful for the Escort but they won't accept that car. Turns out i'm real dumb and should have just raced the MX6 at another event besides GRM to get my membership.

Autolex
Autolex Dork
5/2/13 9:23 p.m.

Whole Shebang for $325? that way I know no connection issues inside the tank?

link's not working. but try searching part BP4W-13-35ZG at http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/

Autolex
Autolex Dork
5/6/13 11:29 a.m.

Ordered the parts above. Also ordered new tension cables, gonna pay a local upholstry shop to install my new Robbins Top (they do a lot of them, evidently $400 and 6h later it'll be done). Glad i'm moving towards having this baby back on the road again!

Also renewed my Yearly SCCA Membership!

codrus
codrus Reader
5/6/13 6:47 p.m.
Keith Tanner wrote: Most GRM friendly? Mazda Motorsports Very easy to become a member, all you have to do is race 3 times a year IIRC.

Easier than that -- it's only 2!

Autolex
Autolex Dork
5/13/13 11:51 a.m.

Car is Running again! Can't wait to get current plates on her so I can drive her a few days a week! (and I believe i'm going to tackle the new soft top installation myself... the frame's already pulled and the old top is off of it. I believe I can do it in two "phases" (installing top on frame, then whole assembly on car) to make it easier on myself (since I have a hardtop, this lets me still drive it and not worry about it being open for someone to steal stuff/vandalize)

Grassroots Motorsports Magazine

Subscribe Today

Also get your instant access to the digital edition of Grassroots Motorsports Magazine!

Learn More
ZY0C55zgPQLjolbXblnit126bqQJuouc