In reply to kazoospec :
I've always had trouble with yellow. The best one I finished was with Tamiya spray cans I extremely light dustings until everything was pretty well covered then a couple normal fairly wet coats to even it out.
In reply to kazoospec :
I've always had trouble with yellow. The best one I finished was with Tamiya spray cans I extremely light dustings until everything was pretty well covered then a couple normal fairly wet coats to even it out.
In reply to kazoospec:
In reply to Wally :
In the past, I've had pretty good results airbrushing yellow over Tamiya white primer on my airliner models. Next, I'm going to be trying Zero Paints Turner Motorsports yellow on a M6 GT3, if the kit will ever get here from Japan. I've never used their paint before, but I've heard good things about it.
The secret to painting yellow is to paint white first. Not just white primer, but white glossy paint. Then lay your yellow down. The Superbird Dayclona is Tamiya Camel Yellow over White and the SAAB is Tamiya Bright Yellow over White.
In reply to Javelin :
Definitely give it a run. I am going to get another one for sure.
Been struggling to complete this Focus SVT for awhile, lost and then found some of the parts, painted it once and it was crap so I sanded it down and let it sit for a couple years. Trying again with this nice aqua color, but didn't get it to lay down perfectly so I still have some more sanding and painting ahead of me.
In the meantime, I picked up this 1/32 scale Thunderbird for 9 bucks intending to convert it to a slot car. I think I might build up the snap-together chassis anyway just for display, and make it easy to swap the body between this chassis and a slot car chassis. It's a nice diversion from more complicated kits.
And here she is, all put together and with the mediocre stickers (not decals) in place. Despite a few fitment issues, it's a neat little kit. I would have loved it as a kid, and I think it makes a solid base for 1/32 slot car scratchbuilding.
I've discovered a new trick for getting rid of bad paint- and it's cheap:
91% Isopropyl Alcohol (rubbing alcohol). I had some stubborn paint I couldn't strip off of the '70 Cuda I'm building, even soaked it in Purple Power and the paint didn't budge. Tossed it in a plastic bag and covered it with alcohol and the paint nearly washed off after only a few minutes. The plastic is somewhat stained, but I should be able to cover it with a fresh coat of primer. I was warned not to let it sit too long because it can harm the plastic if you leave it too long. Also, be careful because it is extremely flammable.
I'm hoping it works on the '68 Charger that's been sitting on the shelf for a year because I couldn't get the bad paint off. I'd like to finally finish these two MoPars, I realized last year that my model shelf is Chrysler-free, which is a shame.
In reply to TheRX7Project :
Have you tried Westley's Bleche-White?
In reply to Javelin :
No, I've never heard of that, I'll have to check it out.
I've never successfully stripped paint with Purple Power but a lot of guys swear by it. Brake fluid only sort of works. I'm hoping the alcohol can do the trick on that Charger, otherwise I'm going to try mineral spirits. At this point I've spent more trying to strip the paint than I think I spent on the kit itself...
In reply to TheRX7Project :
Westley's is better than brake fluid. I've also never gotten purple power to work. Watch:
I recently discovered using 91% alcohol as a stripper, too, and it works a lot better than Purple Power. It's my new go-to paint stripper. I tried Wesley's, but it didn't work any better than Purple Power.
@Javelin, great video!
In reply to BenB :
Interesting, I have plenty of built-up models to strip, I'll have to try the 91%. Thanks!
In reply to Javelin :
Cool video, thank you for sharing.
Looping back to the Miata kit conversation, I see where Tamiya has announced a 1/24 ND RF for 2020. Now if only someone would do an MSM!
It lives!
I bought a chassis kit with an adjustable wheelbase and almost all the parts needed to put it together. I got wheels and tires separately and a soldering iron to connect the wires. This is the first thing I've ever soldered and it's not very pretty, but at least it seems to work OK for now. I can redo it later if I need to.
Back to static models for a bit...trying to remove the side windows from a Ford Probe window pod.
berkeley.
Double berkeley.
I think my options are to either buy another fairly rare Ford Probe kit from ebay, or invest in a vacuum forming machine and make my own dang windows.
In reply to slowbird :
Clear plastic clamshell packaging is great for windows.
Or I suppose I could you my Probe kit.
In reply to Javelin :
I think I could bend something into shape for the windshield, but the wraparound rear-side piece is going to be tougher.
I looked into buying a vacuformer but I'm not ready to commit to that.
In reply to slowbird :
Clamshell plus hair dryer = formed windows.
slowbird said:In reply to Javelin :
I think I could bend something into shape for the windshield, but the wraparound rear-side piece is going to be tougher.
I looked into buying a vacuformer but I'm not ready to commit to that.
You could make a vacuformer.
I like the idea of some plastic packaging and a hair drier or heat gun. You could also build a simple set-up to vac a new windshield and rear hatch. I once made one for ~5 bucks in parts. The only problem with it was when my wife discovered me using her oven to heat the plastic. Plunge molding might work, too, but it's usually better for smaller stuff, like airplane canopies. Here are a couple of links that might help:
I use a JLC razor saw and it does a good job on clear plastic: LINK 3. For me, scoring brittle clear plastic to cut it just leads to lots of swearing.
In reply to Javelin :
Hmm, wouldn't hurt to try it. I think there's a hair dryer somewhere in the house.
In reply to noddaz :
Yeah, true. I actually watched a video on that last night. I'm pretty lazy, but maybe.
In reply to slowbird :
Never built the Bobby Hamilton car but had the Davey Allison and three for Earnhardts kits as a kid.
While I'm searching for solutions on the other build, I'm trying to wrap up this IMSA Mustang that has been 90% done for years. I was missing the Motorcraft decals, so I bought a new sheet from Indycals and put them on. I was worried because I couldn't find my decal setting solution, but it turns out the Indycals are so thin and nice to work with that I didn't need it.
I think I'm going to remove some of the old decals and do most/all of it over again with these new ones, because the red areas look a bit messed up and some of the small decals are not as nice as the new sheet. Gotta go backwards to go forwards sometimes...big shout-out to Indycals though, they make good stuff. I'll buy more from them in the future.
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