MSPNP Just Installed, Looking For Pointers and Tweaks: Grassroots Motorsports forum: Grassroots Motorsports Magazine

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Aug. 6, 2011 5:59 p.m. bigbrainonbrad Reader

Picked up a used MSPNP for my more or less stock 91 miata. I finally got around to installing it this today, currently running the Air Flow Meter and the narrowband O2 sensor. The base map makes the car run and it feels a little peppier. Does anyone in the GRM community have a good NA VE, Spark, or AF target table. I have a tank of 92 octane and feel that there is some power left on the table.

Any good pointers for improving drivability or idle (particularly with a load on the alternator or ac). As it sits right now, I have a partial throttle hiccup at around 2500 RPMs. Ideally I would like to increase the resolution of the tables for running naturally aspirated. I have an LC-1 which will be installed later, but I am taking things one step at a time. I reach out to the GRM community for help!
Aug. 6, 2011 6:53 p.m. John Brown SuperDork

First thing I would do is remove the 92 octane and run some REAL power gas... 87 octane ;)
Aug. 6, 2011 10:01 p.m. BoxheadTim SuperDork

TBH I'd fit the LC-1 ASAP instead of farting about with other people's tunes, even with a mostly stock engine.
Aug. 6, 2011 10:51 p.m. Wonkothesane Reader

Listen to Tim. Install the LC-1 ASAP, and then go and pay the man for Tuner Studio (http://tunerstudio.com/index.php/tuner-studio). I think it costs $50, but it will auto correct your fuel map while you drive, saving you HOURS of time messing with things. All you have to do is get a good spark map in it, and you'll be golden.
Aug. 8, 2011 12:30 p.m. FoundSoul New Reader

Ditch the MAF and let it breathe - that'll be good for a couple hp everywhere, and several (as much as 10) ft/lbs of torque at low rpm WOT.

The ignition map is tuned on 93 to near perfection on a stock car, then detuned by pulling 3 degrees everywhere above 2900 RPM. If you're running similar fuel it should be safe to put that back in but you shouldn't need any more than that on a stock motor. If you want to push it beyond that, put it on a dyno.

As for the hiccup at 2500, probably just a fine tuning issue, you'll be able to see more when you have the wideband hooked up and datalogging.

+1 on Tim's post, don't mess with other peoples tunes, they're not going to be any better for your motor than that base tune is.
Aug. 8, 2011 12:56 p.m. bigbrainonbrad Reader

Thanks for the replies. Next step is the wide band then the afm. I've noticed that I could add some more advance without pinging good to know the numbers that were retarded.
Aug. 10, 2011 6:11 p.m. rmarkc Reader

Wonkothesane wrote:

Listen to Tim. Install the LC-1 ASAP, and then go and pay the man for Tuner Studio (http://tunerstudio.com/index.php/tuner-studio). I think it costs $50, but it will auto correct your fuel map while you drive, saving you HOURS of time messing with things. All you have to do is get a good spark map in it, and you'll be golden.

Eh...I'm very not impressed with beta 1.08.
I had my supercharged 1.6 w/ LC-1 running fairly well on an older version. I haven't tweaked it in over a year but I was "inspired" by the atuotune thread.

I installed the new version, auto detected the connection and set it for LC-1. Now my Miata is a piece of yard art until I decide to brave the heat further and undo the changes 1.08 made...odd thing is, I didn't really ask it to make any changes.

I went to the diagnostics tab and started diag. TS writes 56 bytes to the controller, the car dies with fuel pump relay and pump clicking on and off. TS pops up a message saying TS and the controller don't match. I reload from a restore point and get the car running again...lather, rinse repeat.

All I wanted to do was clear up some uneven-ness at part throttle and tune the idle so the car doesn't die when I use the AC.