dyintorace
dyintorace PowerDork
2/23/17 8:01 p.m.

As chronicled in another thread (Went to an auto-x, bought a car instead)), I bought another NB Miata this past weekend (a 2000 model year). I bought it specifically so I could harvest the top shelf components and move them to my 1999. The 2000 had an FMII turbo set up, a MSPNP and some other nice items that will end up on on the 1999 (parts list below). And the intake, header and exhaust from the 1999 will go on the 2000.

Now to most folks here, this would be an afternoon of work. But, for me, it is a daunting undertaking. On a scale of 1-10 (with Andrew Nelson as a 10), I would be around a 3. Installing pads and rotors is as much wrenching as I've ever done. Lots of new ground to be covered here.

My goal is to get this done in a fairly short period of time, as I want to get the parts I need from the 2000 and then sell it as a normally aspirated car ASAP, recouping some of my investment in the forced induction set up. I will document my progress along the way and most likely have a LOT of questions for the hive!

Megasquirt PNP 2 with ECU extension harness and IAT
Genuine Garage Vary front lip
RX8 Yellow Injectors purchased new from Five O Motorsports
Catch can and upgraded PCV
Autometer water and mechanical oil pressure gauge
AEM Wideband 02 gauge. One of the LED is out on the display. Functions properly
Oil sandwich plate (used for oil feed for turbo setup and oil pressure gauge)
2.375" resonated midpipe
Muffler delete 2.5"
Gauge plate

FMII Turbo Kit with roughly 5k miles, which includes:
• GT2554r
• Intercooler and silicon piping
• FM cast Manifold and Incolonel studs with stage 8 locking hardware
• Downpipe
• Intake and turbo heat shields
• All hose clamps and hardware
• Greddy rep BOV
• Autometer boost gauge
• Stainless steel coolant and oil lines
• Silicon lower radiator hose

CSF Aluminum Radiator from 949 racing - http://949racing.com/CSF-radiator-miata.aspx
Stance coilovers 30k miles and one of the dampener adjusters feels stuck (rides great)
FM clutch with 2500 miles on it
Lightweight flywheel
Singular motorsport hood vents with template
Carbotech Xp10 (fronts) Xp8 (rear) with rotors. 3k miles and 3 track days
Stainless steel brake lines
4.3 LSD

A picture of the destination:

And pictures of the source:

dyintorace
dyintorace PowerDork
2/23/17 8:24 p.m.

To add: thoughts on the best order to go in for removal and re-installation are welcomed!

Rodan
Rodan Reader
2/23/17 10:31 p.m.

Looks like it also has a coolant re-route... are the engine internals stock?

codrus
codrus SuperDork
2/24/17 2:39 a.m.

Grab the instructions from FM's web site, run them backwards on one car, forwards on the other. If the ducting/etc was modified well, then you're probably better off just transferring it and putting the unmodified parts back on the other car.

What kind of injectors are in there? Depending on miles you might want to send them out to be cleaned.

Are you going to return the green/red car back to naturally aspirated power and sell it? If so you'll need a plug for the turbo oil drain hole in the oil pan.

KyAllroad
KyAllroad UberDork
2/24/17 8:06 a.m.

If you're doing that much work on the outside of the motor AND swapping the flywheel, I'd look real hard at just pulling the motor and trans complete from the 2000 and dumping them into the '99.

Rodan
Rodan Reader
2/24/17 8:14 a.m.
KyAllroad wrote: If you're doing that much work on the outside of the motor AND swapping the flywheel, I'd look real hard at just pulling the motor and trans complete from the 2000 and dumping them into the '99.

That's kind of what I was thinking, depending upon the relative conditions/mileage of the two power trains.

dyintorace
dyintorace PowerDork
2/24/17 9:44 a.m.
Rodan wrote:
KyAllroad wrote: If you're doing that much work on the outside of the motor AND swapping the flywheel, I'd look real hard at just pulling the motor and trans complete from the 2000 and dumping them into the '99.

That's kind of what I was thinking, depending upon the relative conditions/mileage of the two power trains.

That has crossed my (semi-educated) mind. Interestingly, both cars have 117,xxx miles on them. And I do want the FM Happy Meal combo on the silver car. Would it be simpler to just unbolt everything on both cars and swap them?

dyintorace
dyintorace PowerDork
2/24/17 9:45 a.m.
Rodan wrote: Looks like it also has a coolant re-route... are the engine internals stock?

I believe it does have a coolant re-route and stock internals AFAIK.

dyintorace
dyintorace PowerDork
2/24/17 9:47 a.m.
codrus wrote: Grab the instructions from FM's web site, run them backwards on one car, forwards on the other. If the ducting/etc was modified well, then you're probably better off just transferring it and putting the unmodified parts back on the other car. What kind of injectors are in there? Depending on miles you might want to send them out to be cleaned. Are you going to return the green/red car back to naturally aspirated power and sell it? If so you'll need a plug for the turbo oil drain hole in the oil pan.

According to the seller, RX8 Yellow Injectors purchased new from Five O Motorsports. I'm not familiar with those. Are they a typical injector for a turbo build?

Yes, I plan to sell the red/green Miata as a normally aspirated car. Assuming I don't swap engines/transmissions, can one plug the oil plan adequately?

EvanB
EvanB UltimaDork
2/24/17 10:52 a.m.

I would just pull the drivetrains complete out of each one and swap them. It would probably go faster than swapping individual parts. Get some local GRMers together for a work day and it could be mostly done in a day.

codrus
codrus SuperDork
2/24/17 11:19 a.m.
dyintorace wrote:
codrus wrote: Grab the instructions from FM's web site, run them backwards on one car, forwards on the other. If the ducting/etc was modified well, then you're probably better off just transferring it and putting the unmodified parts back on the other car. What kind of injectors are in there? Depending on miles you might want to send them out to be cleaned. Are you going to return the green/red car back to naturally aspirated power and sell it? If so you'll need a plug for the turbo oil drain hole in the oil pan.

According to the seller, RX8 Yellow Injectors purchased new from Five O Motorsports. I'm not familiar with those. Are they a typical injector for a turbo build?

Yes, I plan to sell the red/green Miata as a normally aspirated car. Assuming I don't swap engines/transmissions, can one plug the oil plan adequately?

They seem to be fairly popular these days, yes. IIRC, the yellows are 425cc/min, which should get you to the mid/low 200s in horsepower. I've never used them myself, though.

When installing an FM turbo kit, one typically drills the oil pan, threads it with 3/8 NPT, and then JB-welds a hose barb into it. I haven taken one out when it was installed like this, all it took was a socket and a foot or so of leverage, but I did it when the pan was outside of the car. You might wind up breaking off chunks of epoxy and dropping them into the pan.

Once you get it out, assuming the threads are still intact, installing a plug in place of the barb is easy.

Swapping the motors sounds faster on the surface, although there's still a bunch of steps in the FM instructions that it won't cover. It would solve the oil drain and coolant reroute issues. Before I did that, though, I'd want to thoroughly assess the health of the red/green car's engine. Compression test, leakdown test, USB borescope inspection, etc. The miles on the motors may be the same, but track miles count for more, and turbo track miles count for a LOT more.

The VIN is on the oil pan, so if you swap that then you've got mismatching VINs on the car. The car seems unlikely to become a collector vehicle where numbers-matching is important, though.

Neither car has ABS, do both have Torsens? Are both 5-speeds? (They were from Mazda, but...) I would think carefully before swapping the transmission, that's one of the weaker points in the car once you add turbo power.

MrJoshua
MrJoshua UltimaDork
2/24/17 11:21 a.m.

How are the suspension bushings on each? Differentials? Etc.

If the donor had new bushings, has a better diff, suspension, or some other compelling reason maybe you could rollerskate them both and body swap?

wlkelley3
wlkelley3 UltraDork
2/24/17 11:32 a.m.

Personally, I think it would be easier to swap the paint from car to car. Done!

Hal
Hal UltraDork
2/24/17 12:04 p.m.
wlkelley3 wrote: Personally, I think it would be easier to swap the paint from car to car. Done!

As long as body condition is similar, I agree.

dyintorace
dyintorace PowerDork
2/24/17 12:55 p.m.

The red/green car has a tiny bit of rust, and the reason it has green fenders and a green nose is due to a low speed bump by the PO. The 1999 (silver) car is cleaner and straighter, so my goal is to end up with the turbo bits on that car.

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