So I am guessing this question will be less than intelligent but I am good at asking dumb questions!
Which is easier to work on, ODB1 or 2 or does it even matter?
I am thinking of buying something from the 90's and I want to know if this is a decision point.
Much thanks. Rick
Neither is "easier" to work on than the other but OBD2 is easier to "reprogram" with off the shelf re-programmers like the HyperTech, SuperChips or others. OBD1 is often used for modifying non-domestic applications.
Both are just as easy to change the oil, change the spark plugs and wires, install a cold air intake, headers or exhaust.
I like the fact that I can legally pass emissions testing with a CEL on with my pre-95 vehicles as long as the sniffer reads good.
I also like being able to check my codes without having to buy a reader.
newest car I have is a 91 
impulsive wrote:I also like being able to check my codes without having to buy a reader.
So can I, but only because ChryCo was nice and let the early OBD II talk with the key dance.
Back to the original Q, Local emisions requirements can help determine what is better. Where I am, pre OBD II cars only need cats, nothing else. OBD II cars also need too also have no CELs.
Also I would look into models specific issues.
I knew he died a while back, but there's a new one?
OBD2 can make it easier to diagnose things. OBD1 often is easy enough.
OBD2 requires more finesse to pass inspection. OBD1 rarely can screw you on an inspection.
Some OBD2 systems are flashable. Many OBD1 systems can be "chipped"
I personally greatly prefer OBD1 cars, because in my state I can drop any motor into an OBD1 car and still pass inspection. This is not true with OBD2.
My BMW is OBD0 and it's the worst. Fuel injection but no codes to help with diagnosis. All the complexity of fuel injection with none of the electrical magical code throwing helps.
Rick, I looked at your profile, and other than the fact that we share the same birthday, didn't learn much, like where do you live (ie, how tough are the emissions you have to deal with). As others have commented, the emissions standards were less strict before OBD2. But the hardware, software, and systems also got better with ODB2. Some of the pre-ODB2 solutions tried to implement controls with hardware, and were klunky and 'tempramental'. Some of those specific parts might be harder to find. Can always go with an aftermarket or open source solution (Megasquirt). What 'kind' of car is it?
impulsive wrote:I like the fact that I can legally pass emissions testing with a CEL on with my pre-95 vehicles as long as the sniffer reads good.
different strokes... I prefer the OBD2 here in TX since there is no sniffer on 96-up. They plug in, and as long as there isn't a CEL they're happy. I can remove my cats, use O2 sims, and build a 600 hp small block for my 96 Impala SS if I want. Getting that to pass OBD1 would be impossible.
Back in CA, it was kinda the other way around. They sniffed everything.
Do some research on programming. Sometimes the OBD1 is massively cheaper, like in the case of my LT1. There are multiple cheap OBD1 flashers, but only one real player in the OBD2 game and its expensive.
I live in the Seattle area but far enough out that we don't have inspections. I have a Miata that is about to become a project/fun car. I have been looking at early 90's small SUVs like an Isuzu Rodeo to drive on the crappy weather days. In looking into Isuzus they switched from ODB1 to 2 mid '95. On one forum some people made a big deal about the difference. So I turned to GRM because you folks are great input.
Thx!
OBD I is a bit more user friendly for the home tech with limited options, OBD II is more complex and while this is not necessarily a bad thing it does make it a bit more difficult when beating on the thing in your home garage. That's mostly due to things like the MIL coming on due to evap system faults, in a 'sniffer' state it can be a real PITA to get a car through the test because of that.
We just had to hang a $475.00 charcoal adsorption canister on a 2006 C280 because it kept setting a MIL for the purge valve and that's the only way you can get the damn purge valve, with the whole canister. Somebody in the Fatherland is cackling over that one. OBD I doesn't concern itself with evap faults at all.
neon4891 wrote:Back to the original Q, Local emisions requirements can help determine what is better. Where I am, pre OBD II cars only need cats, nothing else. OBD II cars also need too also have no CELs.
Agree. Here in SE PA, pre-OBD II cars have to pass a sniffer test under load on a dyno. Which since buying my E30 I've discovered is a real PITA. From now on, I'll take a much longer look at any pre-OBD II car that has to pass emissions. This is one reason why my latest acquisition is from 1972.
