well, Griffin already beat me to the punch (MotoIq - Miatabusa...love that build), so I am just going to sit back and watch cuz the wiring bits of a swap always fascinate me...
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Dec. 5, 2011 8:43 a.m. 4cylndrfury SuperDork
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Dec. 5, 2011 9:07 a.m. alfadriver SuperDork
pres589 wrote:
In reply to erohslc:
He's not going to have the resources to make a wireboard possible; no engineers estimating routed length, no series production run to really make it a worthwhile endeavor. I would suggest the same thing he's talking about doing; terminate one side of each wire, run out and bundle each conductor together for the various branches of the engine compartment trunk, and only terminate the other end after everything else has been assembled and installed in the engine bay.
???
Why not?
Step 1- determine where you want all of the components.
Step 2- know how you want to run the wires- from a-b, in bundles.
Step 3- make a decent 2D drawing of it, and then take careful measurements.
Step 4- take sheet of plywood, lay out that on it, takeing note of the measurements. Can use either screws or nails as points to wrap around.
step 5 run wire.
Just did that for my race car, and it fit perfectly. You can put some kind of wire cover on after you run the wires on the board. But making a DIY plywood board is very, very easy. A sheet of plywood and some good measurements are all that is required.
BTW, Molex will send you samples if you ask. I got 100 male and female blade connectors that were used on my '74 car.
Get a good crimper, good connectors, and good wire, and you'll be all set.
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Dec. 5, 2011 9:18 a.m. Taiden Dork
What are our options for best cost/quality ratio crimpers and strippers?
Right now I use a Klein stripper/crimper. It seems to work very well, but it doesn't do any specialty crimping.
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Dec. 5, 2011 9:55 a.m. alfadriver SuperDork
In reply to Taiden:
A ratcheting crimper is light years better at crimping real pins than that.
I have one similar to that, and it's not very good at stripping wire, either.
