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  • Helterskelter

    May 3, 2009 9:56 a.m. Helterskelter Reader

    So, well within the capacity of my limitless kindness and generosity I've offered to help a friend get their car running (All while my poor miata sits neglected because I've been driving an E28 and haven't felt the urge to put the new clutch in, that will change this week, however, can't wait to have it back). Anyhow, this is so far what I've gotten from her:

    -Problem started when the car would have trouble starting itself and would need to be jumped (intermittent)

    -Then car would have trouble holding an idle at a stoplight (put it in neutral to keep the revs up would work)

    -If the car was allowed to die when idling at the stop, it would have to cool down for ~10-15 minutes before it would start again (no hot starts).

    -Now the car will not start at all, turns over but no start.

    So far I haven't done anything with the car except verified that I could hear the fuel pump priming when the key was turned. It was dead when I went to look at it, so I did not bother trying jump it, but I take her word it doesn't start (I'll try to start it when I get back on Monday). They've replaced the plugs, but nothing else. This is a college student's car, so obviously we want to do this as cheaply as possible, and not buy unnecessary parts.

    Everything leads me to believe it's not getting a good spark? What does everyone else think? It's not a miata or a E28, so I'm not super comfortable working on it. Gonna try to scour the Hyundai forums, which ones are the good ones? Was this motor used in other vehicles? All help would be greatly appreciated.

  • fifty

    May 3, 2009 10:07 a.m. fifty New Reader

    Can you take it to Autozone and pull the OBDII codes? My folks had a 2000 Hyundai with a smiliar problem - the IACV (idle air control valve) was at fault. Try unplugging it's electrical harness from the throttle body and see if it makes any difference.

  • May 3, 2009 10:17 a.m. warpedredneck New Reader

    check your main relay's they are known to get water (moisture) intrusion, also check for obd2 codes if you have a whole lot of codes that dont make any sence its prob the main relay, also you can sign up to the hyundai website for free info, repair procedures etc keep me posted i may be able to help

  • iceracer

    May 3, 2009 11:42 a.m. iceracer Reader

    Having to jump indicates a battery and or connections problem. One thing to check. as fifty said the IAC contols the idle speed. Getting any codes helps to point you in the right direction.

  • Helterskelter

    May 3, 2009 7:57 p.m. Helterskelter Reader

    Sorry, I forgot to mention in my original post that the car did not throw any codes. That's part of the problem. I do have a code reader, so that would have helped if it threw one... Any ideas what would cause this problem without throwing a code?

  • Jrodsvt

    May 4, 2009 8:27 p.m. Jrodsvt New Reader

    alright this is per the Hyundai Manual so bear with me. from the symptoms you describe they line out a few things that you should check in a certain order.

    1. ect/coolant sensor
    2. fuel quality
    3. idle speed control actuator
    4. intake air temp sensor
    5. fuel pressure regulator
    6. fuel pump
    7. fuel lines
    8. injectors
    9. PCM

    sorry if this is elementary but I did look through Hyundai's TSBs and there was nothing that even closely matched your problem.

    Was the car running rich/getting poor fuel mileage?

  • G_Stock

    May 4, 2009 10:12 p.m. G_Stock New Reader

    fifty wrote:

    Can you take it to Autozone and pull the OBDII codes? My folks had a 2000 Hyundai with a smiliar problem - the IACV (idle air control valve) was at fault. Try unplugging it's electrical harness from the throttle body and see if it makes any difference.

    I'm gonna put my money on this answer, since i had a friend with a 2G Eclipse with the exact same symptoms, IACV tested good at cold temp, we had to remove the unit and heat it up with a hair dryer to test the resistance at operating temperature and verified it was out of spec once it got hot. I would see if you can get the resistance values on the IACV and test there first, cold and hot.

 
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