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Hi, all! Long time lurker first time poster here.
I'm building an 89, 20s,manual Prelude for asphalt, short track enduros and was wondering if any of you have any ideas or experience with these cars or races ya' might want to pass on to me. The cars have to remain stock with the exception of saftey equipment, removal of glass, trim and interior so no mods other than removal of the cat and muffler. This is my first trip into light(er) faster, fragile race cars as I previously ran a 91 Grand prix, 3.1 auto that was heavy, slow but very durrable. Push rod GM,V6s are the bee's knees. I would post in the circle track/stock car forums but I this crowd seems to be more fun. Not to mention that I am willing to bet that one or more of you did something way stupid with one of these cars and have some valuable info to share.
The only advice I have is change the timing belt if there is any question of mileage or age, unless you consider it a disposable car (even your time is worth something)is that a DOHC with the interference design (pistons hit open valves if belt breaks...) ??
Post pictures of modded 'Lude ! Is it the blue 'Lude in your avatar?
Hey, I know these cars.
They have good torque for a Honda, and don't like to rev high. They have a very long stroke, makes for some really high piston speeds. 6500rpm is about as high as you need to go, taking it to the 6750 redline/7200rpm limiter is just making noise. Lots of weight to be removed, power steering, ac and sunroof would be first on my list. Also the flip up headlights seeing as you probably don't need them now.
Chebbie_SB wrote: The only advice I have is change the timing belt if there is any question of mileage or age, unless you consider it a disposable car (even your time is worth something)is that a DOHC with the interference design (pistons hit open valves if belt breaks...) ?? Post pictures of modded 'Lude ! Is it the blue 'Lude in your avatar?
Hey, yeah it is the one in the avatar. Handsome fella. huh? I'll check the belt out for sure. Can't win if you can't finnish. It's not the DOHC si motor. (B20A5)? It's the SOHC with the dual carbs (B20A3). Thanks for the tips Run away. I was planing on dumping the PS anyway cause it leaks real bad. I'm new to these cars so any info helps. So in being new to these cars, I just discovered that the fuel lines are routed inside of the car on the drivers side door sill. Scary. Gota move those.
I'll post some pictures soon, probably this weekend when i'm building it's roll cage.
Where will you race that? I am outside of Rochester NY. Good Luck!
The track is Motordrome. It's about 30mi. South of Pittsburgh, PA.
I had a '88 2.0S that I sold late last year. I just resurrected from dead and drove mine, I didn't do anything performance-wise. you might have some luck sending a message to this guy: http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/reader-rides/625/
Also, Miata daisies look really good on these cars.
I need to ask: Any non-stock bolts showing through the rear bumper cover? I'm curious if I may have spent some time in this car in the past.
What is your tire rule?
I'lll check it out Carson. Thanks for the contact.
Nothing out of the ordinary on the bumper Woody. BTW the paint ont the car is a hack job, orange peel wonderland. It's original color was a silver metalic. Also, the car is form WVA. I'll have some pics up by the weekend. Theres some repairs ect. that were performed that I need you guys to see.
The tire rule is this; Tires and wheels must be stock for make and model of car, maximum of 6 width. Maximum width 60 series street legal DOT tires only. No racing tires. No truck or light truck tires.
They leave a lot open huh? You can stagger sizes as long as they fit in the "stock" requirements. The "maximum of 6"width" refers to rims.
What would you do?
Here are the rest of the rules for ya'.
Open to any 4 or 6-cylinder FWD hardtop passenger car. No trucks, 4-wheel drives, or convertibles. Station wagons are allowed. Engine must be stock for make, model and year with no alterations. No turbo or supercharged engines allowed
All lights, moldings, plastics, etc. must be removed. Interior must be completely gutted with the exception of the drivers seat. Removal of dash assembly is optional. All mirrors and windows must be removed completely. Windshield removal is optional. If removed, a screen, or a piece of lexan must be in place to protect the driver.
Tires and wheels must be stock for make and model of car, maximum of 6 width. Maximum width 60 series street legal DOT tires only. No racing tires. No truck or light truck tires.
All cars must maintain lap belt and shoulder harness and be worn by driver at all times. 5 point racing harness is allowed and recommended. Driver must wear a 1990 or newer Snell approved helmet. Driver must wear leather shoes, gloves, and flame retardant driving suit.
No alteration or reinforcement of frame or body. No cutting or gutting of any panels. No bracing in front of front firewall. Cars must have full body. Absolutely no reinforcing of front or rear bumpers.
Trunks, hatchbacks and doors must be fastened shut by chaining or welding.
All cars must be numbered on both sides. Numbers must be at least 16 Height.
Batteries must be located in the engine compartment or may be on the passenger side floor, securely fastened down and covered with rubber mats.
Seat must be fastened solid to the floor.
Gas tank must remain in original position under the floor in front of rear axle. A 1/8 steel skid pan is required under the gas tank. As an option a fuel cell may be mounted in the spare tire well of the trunk and secured by four 1 steel straps. A firewall must remain between driver compartment and trunk.
Roll cages are optional. All cars are required to run a min 1 inch round or square steel tube from the left b-pillar across the back of the drivers seat to the right b-pillar at a height just below the drivers shoulder. A roll over hoop is also recommended. Window nets are mandatory!
Each car must supply one person to score.
Cars found to be illegal will not receive entry fee back and will be disqualified
Race distance is 100 laps or 1 hour, whichever comes first.
Around here, alot of guys run Falken Azenis. They are available in a 60 series. Yokohama AVS100 are a good choice as well. You can get atleast 1" of stagger in the tires and stay within the rules with different sizes. Enduro racing is fun as hell.
You're not going to have a lot of tire options for your stock 13" steelies. When they say stock for make and model, does that include sub-model? Or can you run 14" wheels off of the Si?
I talked to the tech guys at the last race and they are basicly trying to keep everyone from running an aftermarket wheel. In my last race I ran the stock 16" aluminum Pontiac cross lace wheels W/225/60s on the right and aluminum Cadillac 15"s on the left W/205/60s. They didn't look twice. With that said, I have a set of old school Accord/Prelude turbine wheels i'm gona run. On tires I'm gona run a hodge podge of 195/60/14s that i've collected. All of em' are 4ply tires. 2 tread 2 sidewall in the 300 TW range. The tires have to be tough and cheap. I get a near fatal gouge or a bubble in damn near every race.
Yeah, Larry. Enduros are great! I love the problem solving and prep time with the car/s. Oh, and the carnage of it all. Only 9 days away.....can't wait!
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