So on our chump car Accord (1994) we still have the headlight stalk/switch and it's kind of in the way with drivers changes and so on. I'm horrible with wiring and just wondering if anyone has insight for putting a headlight on a toggle switch. I know to get a good quality toggle switch that can hold the proper amperage; but, for a Honda do I need a 3, 5, or 7 pin toggle/rocker switch? Same for high beams? Thanks
Can you keep the switch itself and just mount it somewhere less in the way?
Use a relay insread of just wiring thru a rocker. Most relay kits have the simple wiring diagram right on the package, or instead simply google it.
Why don't you grab a panel mount switch from something in a junkyard? I've always liked the pontiac switches.
Like these from a '97-'03 Grand Prix
Or these third Gen Firebird Switches.
einy is right - get a cheap/junkyard relay and use the switch on that instead. Don't pull a Porsche 944 and run all the headlight current through the switch.
einy wrote: Use a relay insread of just wiring thru a rocker. Most relay kits have the simple wiring diagram right on the package, or instead simply google it.
Googled it and got a lot of hot rodding forums dealing with cars from the 60s and stuff and nothing at what i was looking at. I've got a few relay kits from the retrofit source. Might just use those.
Knurled: We've moved it out of the way but it's still in the way if that makes sense. Trying to clean up the dash, get rid of excess, and odd things. The windshield wiper and headlight/turn signal stalks are in awkward spots.
E36 M3 I removed about 15lbs of weight off the car this weekend in sound deadening, unneeded wiring in the back of the car, and plastic clips
fiat 124s used a toggle for their headlights. It was a fairly beefy switch. You can still get them new from specialty online stores catering to them
I'd be surprised if a 94 accord headlight circuit doesn't already have use a relay from the factory.
The headlights should already be on a relay. Id go an on/off/on 3 position toggle or panel switch, number of poles will depend on how the existing switch is wired.
O/f/o will allow one way for low beam, one for high.
Otherwise consider a standard on off switch and an old school foot switch to go from low to high beam. Doing that will probably require a changeover relay though.
Do you have dash and park lights to worry about? How about Indicators/hazards?
Count me I the 'use the stock relay's camp. Find a wiring diagram of the switch to determine what sort of switch you need. You 'probably' want a three pole switch that will have two on positions. One will be wired to high and one to low.
They have a built in relay after prodding around this weekend I realized that. And I got a wiring diagram off the Honda Service site so should be much easier to knock out than I previously thought. If it doesn't work, I'll just slap the stalk back in right where your fourth point of contact is.
Also, consider separate circuits for the lights (left/right side). That way if one relay or switch fails, you're not totally in the dark. And if you're going to be night racing, you're definitely not going to want to use the stock lighting.
I've run a pair of factory headlights on a 2000 Sunfire to a switch for roughly 6 years without a problem. Parts store switch. No other lights are on the switch.
The Sunfire has a flaw in the dashboard that a replacement is not available for, that will cause one headlight to stay on DRL. I didn't want to swap a junkyard unit it so went to the switch. I used decent gauge wire and an inline fuse. That was about 50,000 miles ago.
ross2004 wrote: Also, consider separate circuits for the lights (left/right side). That way if one relay or switch fails, you're not totally in the dark. And if you're going to be night racing, you're definitely not going to want to use the stock lighting.
We have ample lighting. Retrofitted TRS/morimoto H1 projectors that have hi/low. Using a morimoto h1 bulb and ballast. Massive LED light bar. And back up are pinkish orange HIDs in the high beam haha.
I got the headlights to work on toggle switches tonight. The relay has constant power, just had to add ground and viola it took me all of 10 minutes. Removing the combo stalk and excess wiring netted us a weight savings of 10oz.
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