I hear rust will take a 240 wagon before anything else does. So I wanted to be pro active and take care of the small sections of my car where rust shows. Most of these are just place where paint and clear coat was scratched off.
I'm a complete beginner so if you could share tools and spray I need that would be great. Most the cars clear coat is gone so I don't really care too much about looks but I'd like it to be at least decent looking.
Rust all looks pretty dry except for the door sills. Sand/scrape/wire brush down to bare metal. Make sure you get all the rust out. Spray over with some kind of rust inhibiting primer - Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer is my go to. Complete with your finish coat of choice.
NordicSaab wrote: Rust all looks pretty dry except for the door sills. Sand/scrape/wire brush down to bare metal. Make sure you get all the rust out. Spray over with some kind of rust inhibiting primer - Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer is my go to. Complete with your finish coat of choice.
Finish coat is just paint?
And can I put a wire brush on my Makita house drill to scrape off rust?
Finish coat is paint.
I've never had success with a wire brush on a drill; usually there isn't enough torque.
Flap disc or wire brush on a grinder would be fastest. You could also hand sand.
I use a combination of the grinder and drill approach. Sand or soda blasting would be most effective
NordicSaab wrote: Finish coat is paint. I've never had success with a wire brush on a drill; usually there isn't enough torque. Flap disc or wire brush on a grinder would be fastest. You could also hand sand.
Hand sand just as good? I'm fine with that as I'd rather spend an extra four hours than get a grinder I'd use once!
Clean it up with a wire brush on a grinder, make sure you get any scale off (it looks a lot like metal after hitting it with the brush but will scrape off if you go after it with a screwdriver or pick), hit it with some Rustoleum rusty metal primer (I prefer the brush on) feather it in with fine sandpaper if you care about it that much, then topcoat with rustoleum, that's about it.
This is relevant to my new to me Pathfinder with a rust spot.
Does using a liquid rust converter make this process easier? Should I do abrasives or converter?
I've been please with POR 15. Eastwood used to sell a product called Corroless which has worked well. Eastwoods rust encapsulator seems to be the same product that corroless was.
Coldsnap wrote Hand sand just as good? I'm fine with that as I'd rather spend an extra four hours than get a grinder I'd use once!
If you do any work making anything metal (or even wood) a grinder is invaluable. I really don't like most harbor freight stuff but one of their 4" grinders might last long enough to convince you of their value.
No experience with their wire wheels but I'd suggest getting a good one from elsewhere, which might set you back as much as the hf grinder.
Or consider it an early christmas gift :). They're awesome and you'll love it for this job.
Metal etch (diluted phosphoric acid, same thing as concrete etch) will remove the rust and prep the metal. Scrubbing the treated area with a wire brush or scotchbrite pad washes the rust away. Clean with water to neutralize. May not be needed, but the easiest way to get rust out of pits, gouges, welds etc.
All good advise above. There are any ways to get the job done.
I would very much agree on buying a grinder if you can swing it. Just remember they are a disposable tool, none of them last forever.
If hand sanding is the only option go get some 80 grit and a small block of wood to bake it. That will get the job done... eventually.
I'd also try your wire brush on drill. I've never had luck, but ymmv.
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