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Somebeach (Forum Supporter)
Somebeach (Forum Supporter) Reader
11/22/20 7:29 a.m.

I am going to need to make a remote shifter on a challenge budget. 
 

what is a good way to do this? It will be a AR5 from a Colorado into a Mercedes 190e.  

Is there a best way?

Is there a cheapest way? 
 

I have found some different examples:



in the picture above what is the hardware at the bottom of C? And is that just a bolt that goes through it? 
 

I haven't done much fabrication so anything helps. 
thanks. 

Heim joint, and yes, just a bolt through it.

Also known as a spherical rod end.

 

Patrick (Forum Supporter)
Patrick (Forum Supporter) MegaDork
11/22/20 7:32 a.m.

That's a rod end.  Looks like you could build that out of a 3/8 rod end and some scrap.

Stampie (FS)
Stampie (FS) MegaDork
11/22/20 7:55 a.m.

How far do you need to go back?  I'd rather do a solid shifter than all those joints.

BarryNorman
BarryNorman New Reader
11/22/20 11:14 a.m.

Two electronically activated rams. Attached to a ratcheting mechanism. Controlled by paddles on the steering wheel. For extra design points! 

Edit. Obviously for an auto trans (cheaper option?) Challenge enterant.

Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter)
Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) MegaDork
11/22/20 11:17 a.m.

So, i had to move the shifter about 5 inches rearward in my miata challenge car. 

I just cut the stick in half, used a piece of 1x1 square tube and made a z shape. I adjusted the angles a little off of vertical on the ends so it felt better in my hand while running through the gears. 

bearmtnmartin
bearmtnmartin SuperDork
11/22/20 11:32 a.m.

This guy figured it out nice and cheaply.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJmB-lUfTZs

Stampie (FS)
Stampie (FS) MegaDork
11/22/20 11:50 a.m.
BarryNorman said:

Two electronically activated rams. Attached to a ratcheting mechanism. Controlled by paddles on the steering wheel. For extra design points! 

Edit. Obviously for an auto trans (cheaper option?) Challenge enterant.

I have thought of a manual trans version.  X and Z rams. Three positions each. Another ram for the clutch. Needs a controller but yeah paddle shift T5. 

John Welsh (Moderate Supporter)
John Welsh (Moderate Supporter) Mod Squad
11/22/20 12:33 p.m.
bearmtnmartin said:

This guy figured it out nice and cheaply.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJmB-lUfTZs

Wow, that's a nice looking finished product. 

Somebeach (Forum Supporter)
Somebeach (Forum Supporter) Reader
11/22/20 2:34 p.m.

In reply to Stampie (FS) :

I don't know for sure yet, but I probably need to go back 10"-12". 

Somebeach (Forum Supporter)
Somebeach (Forum Supporter) Reader
11/22/20 2:40 p.m.

In reply to bearmtnmartin :

Thanks. That might be the winner. I think I may have some parts to make that from the donor car. 

buzzboy
buzzboy Dork
11/22/20 5:05 p.m.

In reply to Stampie (FS) :

Chairslayer on Hoonigan showed off his car's hand control setup. It had exactly that but for a T56. All controlled with his left hand.

wspohn
wspohn Dork
11/23/20 11:28 a.m.

Talk to the guys that build Formula V cars - they are experts at creating long circuitous but effective remote shifters.

Is it not possible to use an AR5 out of a Kappa or Toyota, rather than a Colorado? Their shifter is already at the tail end of the trans?  At least that would get you part way there.

You might also call DDMWorks as they do the Polaris Slingshot and may have info or core trans around.  Ask for Dave.

Wicked93gs
Wicked93gs Reader
11/23/20 11:45 a.m.

Cheapest way? Get a ball joint and weld a shifter handle to it...then bolt the connecting rod through the shifter stub on one side and the shifter handle on the other...mount the ball joint on some type of plate.

nocones
nocones UltraDork
11/23/20 11:54 a.m.

My MG i basicaly did the same thing that in that Youtube video.

The trick with these is to make sure you have a large surface area at the joints to resist the twist in the link.  You can achieve this by having a larger plate with a simple hole in it, or use a longer bushing like youtube guy did.  I used a brass 1/2" OD x 1/4 ID bushing (From Home Depot)  and JB weld glued it into the closest size piece of weldable tube I could get.  You could leave the bushing out if you use a larger flange instead.    Here is mine (I started the video link at the brief 10 seconds I talk about it, and show it working).

 

Doc Brown
Doc Brown Dork
11/23/20 4:26 p.m.

 

The 2nd picture in the original post is of a remote shifter I fabricated for the G10 Miata.  This setup had a great feel to it and was accurate.  The only issue I had was there was some vibrations from the transmission that were amplified by the shifter.

 

Somebeach (Forum Supporter)
Somebeach (Forum Supporter) Reader
11/23/20 6:09 p.m.

In reply to wspohn :

thanks for the info, I could have used a different AR5, I am trying to build a challenge car and every dollar counts, the Colorado one I got for $150. 

 

Somebeach (Forum Supporter)
Somebeach (Forum Supporter) Reader
11/23/20 6:18 p.m.

In reply to nocones :

thanks is this the type of bushing you are talking about?

and is this where you used it? 


I appreciate all this good input, as I am trying to learn this stuff and it takes me a while to understand. 

Somebeach (Forum Supporter)
Somebeach (Forum Supporter) Reader
11/23/20 6:21 p.m.

In reply to Doc Brown :

Thanks good info. Did you make or buy the piece that clamps on to the actual shifter rod? 
 

Doc Brown
Doc Brown Dork
11/23/20 8:56 p.m.

In reply to Somebeach (Forum Supporter) :

The chunk of aluminum was fabricated with a hack saw, drill press and a mill.

nocones
nocones UltraDork
11/24/20 12:36 a.m.

The thing you are pointing at on mine is the Rod End.  The bushings are in the bolts that are attached to each end of the link.  My trans side bracket I just welded onto the stock shifter. 

For mine I used these as the bushings (~$1.00)

Olite-bronze-plain-bearing-McMaster-carr

The pivot is a 3/8 rod end ($2.99-4.50)

Rod-end-McMaster-Carr

Speedway motors has the best price on rod ends.  I just realized I actually used a piece of 3/8ID tube for the shifter and welded a 3/8-24 nut onto the bottom of it.  

The Olite bushings are available at most hardware stores in the little misc faster drawers.  I can't find them on Home Depot online stuff but usually ACE, Rural King, Tractor Supply, or the like have them.

For ultimate precision use 1/4" shaft shoulder bolts as the pivot.  It will cost a little more (Shoulder bolts are around $1.50 each instead of basically free for regular 1/4" bolts).  Mine uses regular bolts but relies on the plate surface area for some of the torsional rigidity.

I can take it appart and get some more detailed pictures if youd like.

Somebeach (Forum Supporter)
Somebeach (Forum Supporter) Reader
11/24/20 12:54 p.m.

In reply to nocones :

Thanks. The information helps. No need to take it apart now just to take pictures for me. I appreciate the offer though. I still have several steps before I start building the shifter. I think I have the general idea. 

Somebeach (Forum Supporter)
Somebeach (Forum Supporter) Reader
11/26/20 11:53 a.m.

I have a couple of no budget impact options from the donor car. Not sure which to use. 
 


 

I guess this is what I was thinking 

yellow arrow through floor with a washer and nut. 
 

then both red arrows would need bolt, nut and bushing? 


 

anything I am missing? 

also any ideas on a automatic Saab 9-3 for things to use as bushings? 
 

nocones
nocones UltraDork
11/26/20 3:23 p.m.

Tie rod end is a brilliant idea.  Should work great.  I would weld a plate on to both rods for your link pivots but it seems like you got the right idea.  You can go lower for the link locations.  You can also use slightly different heights to adjust the shift length to make it a quicker shift or longer.   

Somebeach (Forum Supporter)
Somebeach (Forum Supporter) Reader
11/26/20 6:17 p.m.

In reply to nocones : thanks for the help! 

 

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