Login Register Sign up for the GRM e-newsletter

Login to post Forums » Grassroots Motorsports » Replacing headgasket on my Integra
  • RussellH

    Jan. 31, 2010 11:14 p.m. RussellH Reader

    So I need to replace the headgasket on my '92 Integra (B18A1). I'm getting ready to pull the head this week. I've never actually pulled just the head before. Are there any tips or tricks to it? Here's what I have planned:

    1. disconnect battery, airbox etc
    2. remove the valve cover, timing chain cover, etc
    3. loosen exhaust manifold bolts
    4. disconnect all electrical, vaccum hoses
    5. pull the head along with the intake manifold

    Yeah I know it's easier said than done. I have the Haynes manual on order, mostly to help with the reassembly/torque numbers.

  • 93celicaGT2

    Feb. 1, 2010 7:34 a.m. 93celicaGT2 SuperDork

    One of the simplest cars ever to do a head gasket on. No real tips or tricks. Everything is easy to get to, and it's all straight up and down, the motor isn't canted at some crazy angle.

    You're lucky.

  • wheelsmithy

    Feb. 1, 2010 8:10 a.m. wheelsmithy New Reader

    Clean, clean, clean. both the top of the block, and bottom of the head. If you have a trusted machine shop nearby, have them surface the head, maybe even take a little off for a compression boost. Party on.

  • integraguy

    Feb. 1, 2010 8:25 a.m. integraguy HalfDork

    I used to own a '92 Integra, and still have the Haynes manual I bought for it. You are correct in assuming that Haynes is best used for things like torque figures as it is sketchy on the "complete disassembly procedures" for many parts of a typical car. I do have to admit though, it was a help in troubleshooting many electrical and even a few mechanical problems with that car.

    BTW, I stupidly ran my Integra out of oil (loose oil filter, I think....my own dumb fault) but at 216K miles it was running strong. I really wish I hadn't destroyed the engine and was still driving it. Integras.....solid as a rock.

  • RussellH

    Feb. 1, 2010 9:51 a.m. RussellH Reader

    So last night I started looking at what things I'll need to remove etc. Most things are accessible but I noticed the intake manifold is bolted to a bracket on the bottom and the bracket is bolted to the subframe. The only way to get at it would be from underneath and even that might be tricky.

    The other option is to remove the intake manifold before pulling the head but the lower bolts are just about inaccessible.

    Also looks like the exhaust manifold would probably need to be disconnected at the collector pipe and pulled with the head.

    The accessory belts etc are burried against the fender very little room to get at the pulley bolts.

    So a little more tricky than I was expecting it to be for a 1992 car

  • Shaun

    Feb. 1, 2010 10:57 a.m. Shaun Reader

    RussellH wrote:

    1. So last night I started looking at what things I'll need to remove etc. Most things are accessible but I noticed the intake manifold is bolted to a bracket on the bottom and the bracket is bolted to the subframe. The only way to get at it would be from underneath and even that might be tricky.

    2. The other option is to remove the intake manifold before pulling the head but the lower bolts are just about inaccessible.

    3. Also looks like the exhaust manifold would probably need to be disconnected at the collector pipe and pulled with the head.

    4. The accessory belts etc are burried against the fender very little room to get at the pulley bolts.

    5. So a little more tricky than I was expecting it to be for a 1992 car

    Buy the Haynes.

    I have a 96-00 civic. A close relative of your car.

    1. I think you will find the bracket that supports the IM is bolted to the block at the other end. It is just a couple bolts. Call me Lazy but I did not replace it when I put the IM back on.

    2. Pull the IM with the flange completely bolted to the head. Yes, detach stuff from underneath to free it. PVC, vacumm, oil pressure, electrical harness stuff, a sensor or two mayby...

    3. That is what I did. piece of cake. Leave the EM completely bolted to the head as well.

    4. There is further access from inside the fender. remove the splash guard on the inside of the fender, or fold it up along a provided crease.

    Honda's are nicely engineered cars. They do provide room for tools and have a pretty low special tool requirement. It is a FWD package so it's a bit tight, but I have worked on much more confounding pieces of automotive jigsawpuzzlery. A FIAT once owned comes to mind. I traded it for a guitar.

  • RussellH

    Feb. 1, 2010 9:14 p.m. RussellH Reader

    Shaun, Thanks for the tips. I got started this afternoon when I got home from work. I have just about everything pulled and unplugged on the head. I'm waiting for the Haynes manual so I can start undoing the cam journals etc in the proper loosening sequence as well as figuring out how to undo all the v-belts and pulleys in that tiny corner. My wife's 2004 Accord has more room between the fender and the serpentine belt.

  • digdug18

    Feb. 1, 2010 10:26 p.m. digdug18 Reader

    Do you want a factory manual for your car?

    If you goto hondahookup.com and become a member(its another honda forum), you can download factory service manuals. I've downloaded their manuals before, they even have motorcycle manuals. The Helms manual is soo much better then the haynes manual, there is no comparison.

    The one for your car is 43 megs.

    Andrew

  • DILYSI Dave

    Feb. 1, 2010 10:30 p.m. DILYSI Dave SuperDork

    Leave the manifold on the head. It's only bolted to that bracket with a couple of M8 bolts. Leave the bracket on the block.

  • Streetwiseguy

    Feb. 2, 2010 7:21 a.m. Streetwiseguy New Reader

    I see no mention yet of cam timing.

  • RussellH

    Feb. 2, 2010 10:28 a.m. RussellH Reader

    digdug, awesome, I'm downloading it now, thanks!!

    Dave, that's what I'm doing, I have the two IM bolts out and the bracket is left attached to the block

    WiseGuy, yeah that's the part I'm a little concerned about but I have the first cylinder at TDC with the "up" marks on the sprockets pointing up. I think I should be able to undo the cam journals and remove the cams at this point. I'm not sure how difficult it'll be to put the cams back in the same way with the valves pushing on on the cam.

  • Shaun

    Feb. 2, 2010 11:56 a.m. Shaun Reader

    RussellH wrote:

    digdug, awesome, I'm downloading it now, thanks!!

    Dave, that's what I'm doing, I have the two IM bolts out and the bracket is left attached to the block

    WiseGuy, yeah that's the part I'm a little concerned about but I have the first cylinder at TDC with the "up" marks on the sprockets pointing up. I think I should be able to undo the cam journals and remove the cams at this point. I'm not sure how difficult it'll be to put the cams back in the same way with the valves pushing on on the cam.

    You can leave the head completely assembled and remove it before checking the flatness and condition of the mating surfaces and valves, guides, seals, and whatever. The cams may not need to come off the head at all. Have a some wood set up to set the whole widget on before you yank it to protect the Japanese aluminium.

    It is pretty damned easy to pull the cam back down on the valves if need be.

    Before pulling the head drain the coolant from the system. It keeps coolant and gunk out of the threaded holes in the block where the head bolts engage, and other places, which is good.

    either d-series.com or honda-tech.com or both will have pictorials stickied on doing all this stuff.

  • RussellH

    Feb. 2, 2010 3:47 p.m. RussellH Reader

    OK I have the manual now. Sooo much easier. Thanks again digdug!

    Based on what I've read the DOHC motors require the removal of the camshafts to get at the head bolts. SOHCs typically don't.

  • RussellH

    Feb. 6, 2010 4:36 p.m. RussellH Reader

    OK guys, I got the head off this morning.

    Bad news: the headgasket is fine though it did have traces of milkshake on it. The gasket is three layers of metal, I was expecting it to be that graphite material which easily gets torn. So now I'm wondering if the head is warped. Come to think of it since even the block is aluminum the block itself could be warped too.

    Now it is possible that it was condensation that blew out the exhaust even though it was a lot but the loss of coolant, overheating on the dyno and the smog mechanic asking me if it has a blown headgasket after looking at the coolant dripping out the exhaust all pointed to a blown headgasket - or possibly a warped head.

    Questions: Does Acura sell a head headgasket kit with all the gaskets and seals? I've seen the Autozone ones but not sure about the quality. Should I just reuse the head bolts? Dare I ask: should I reuse the headgasket? Afterall it's survived 170k miles on it.

  • 93celicaGT2

    Feb. 6, 2010 4:46 p.m. 93celicaGT2 SuperDork

    Do not re-use the head bolts, don't reuse the head gasket, either. I'd take the head to a machine shop and get it re-surfaced if at all possible.

 
Tire Rack- Revolutionizing Tire Buying

You'll need to log in to post.