Rotted transmission pan-Page 2: Grassroots Motorsports forum: Grassroots Motorsports Magazine

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Oct. 20, 2011 12:25 a.m. novaderrik Dork

ValuePack wrote:

In reply to novaderrik:

I worked part time at an indy transmission shop for a few years, the rule of thumb from the old guys was 30lbs for Mopar pans. Made sense, considering the heat under there, thermal expansion of the dissimilar metals being fastened, etc.

However!

Looking up torque specs on several truck-application Dodge autos now, I'm seeing no more than 9-13lbs called out for. I bow humbly, head held low, in my ignorance before the Internet Powers That Be.

"Snug, but not too tight" it is.

torque specs are for the stuff inside the engine (plus head bolts), trans, and axle.. everything else is done by feel. after you snap a few bolts and strip out a few threads, you kinda figure out the difference between "snug" and "tight" with different tools ranging from a small philips screwdriver to a 3 foot pipe on a breaker bar.
Oct. 20, 2011 12:51 a.m. Trans_Maro Dork

Tighten it until the hole strips, then go back 1/2 turn.

Shawn
Oct. 25, 2011 5:27 a.m. Mazdax605 Dork

Trans pan all changed out last night. Went pretty well. I just poked a hole in the old pan in the heavily rotted area to get it to drain easier,and then removed it. Only issue I had was after I was all done and basically cleaning up I noticed there was a round magnet in the old pan that I neglected to transfer to the new pan. Funny thing is the pan rotted the worst in that area. Do I really need it in there?

Also what is the best way to set the fluid level? I filled it up with about three quarts,and then started the van up. Shifted it through the gears without moving the van a few times,and then just let it idle to warm up. I then put the trans in neutral,and checked the fluid level. It seemed low so I adjusted it again. All told I put a gallon jug plus two quarts in it,and it seems to be around the right level but I plan on checking it again. I also took it for a drive around the block,and everything seems to shift just fine.
Oct. 25, 2011 6:30 a.m. 44Dwarf Dork

Sounds like you did it right. Not to worry about the magnet half the time there not in the pan. Filter should catch that stuf anyway. But if your worried you can JB weld it to the outside and it will still work fine.
Oct. 25, 2011 10:12 a.m. mad_machine SuperDork

or find a drain plug magnet.
Oct. 25, 2011 1:19 p.m. Mazdax605 Dork

There isn't a drain plug on the transmission pan,so a drain plug with a magnet won't work.
Oct. 25, 2011 2:24 p.m. 44Dwarf Dork

Oh crap someone should have told you to buy the drain kit....DOH http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/13010.html I spot weld the nut after its in just incase i get a leak i can tighten with out worry of spinning the nut.