Rules to turbocharging - what are they?

Run two turbos on one bank? Don't want to run it under the truck. That is all the space there is. The engine bay is so tight that the fan had to be mounted on the outside of the radiator by Ol' Shel.

Moparman wrote: In reply to PseudoSport: Two turbos present budget and packaging problems. The drivers side of a Shelby Dak is tight.

So you might have to do a remote mount turbo?

That would add some complications. Nothing bad, just an external oil pump and extra plumbing.

Well I was just thinking of taking the exhaust from the drivers side and running it under the engine like the factory crossover pipe then up to the passenger side of the engine mounting both turbos next to each other if there is space. That way you don’t have to worry about an external oil pump. Since the turbos are next to each other this might actually cut down on some of the plumbing.

If you were going to do that, you might as well ditch the second turbo and do a single large.

I think I am going to get the largest I can for my budget. Heck, if I push too much air I am just going to blow it up.

I think a nice remote mount HY35 or wh1c from an early ram cummins turbo would be just fine for a low boost remote mount setup on that truck. heck you got room under the bed for twins. Run a true dual exhaust, crossover if you have $$$ for it, power each unit with one bank and GLH.

I'm not a fan of remote mounts, I think they are suboptimal, but they do work and they do help with the mounting issue.

Ignorant wrote: I think a nice remote mount HY35 or wh1c from an early ram cummins turbo would be just fine for a low boost remote mount setup on that truck. heck you got room under the bed for twins. Run a true dual exhaust, crossover if you have $$$ for it, power each unit with one bank and GLH. I'm not a fan of remote mounts, I think they are suboptimal, but they do work and they do help with the mounting issue.

x2, this is the way to go, cheap, simple, and will work with the flow your motor will put out, in fact it should be able to keep up as far as you'd like to go... (I have an HY35 on our 2.3T Ford)

I think I like the single big turbo idea the best. I have seen some Cummins and Duramax used turbos on E-bay which may do the trick. Anyone have alternative sources than Ebay? My nearby Craigslists are dry.

Moparman wrote: I think I like the single big turbo idea the best. I have seen some Cummins and Duramax used turbos on E-bay which may do the trick. Anyone have alternative sources than Ebay? My nearby Craigslists are dry.

Sure that will work. For the challenge it will be fine, even if you lunch it because of surge, you'll be fine for the event.

An hy35 is not a "big" turbo. I used to work on stuff with HX50's and Hx60's. Holset also makes an HX82.

Here's an HX 82 next to a HT3B. An HT3B is a 10-12 liter engine turbo on par with various sizes of HX40-HX50. We used to have a v16 with 4 HX82's on it.. YEEE HA

One more hint, on an HX35 or HY35 try to find a smaller turbine housing, so it will spool quicker. a 9cm or 12cm would be absolutely great for a race application. Not so awesome for the street. Look inside the T-housing inlet and you'll see a cast in number. A 9 = 9cm housing.

A automatic trans dodge will have a smaller turbine housing. A manual transmission will have a bigger housing.

For inspiration.. a Dakota with rear turbo.

http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/showthread.php?t=76091

Also be very careful about buying a turbo you cannot lay your hands upon. You need to check for shaft runout and excessive play in the thrust bearing. Buying a turbo off ebay is kaaarazy.

I wouldn't run an HX/HY35 on any decent-sized V8...

We spool those on our little 2.2 4-bangers pretty early...

I still vote HX40 at a minimum. But on a Challenge budget, you get what you can get.

I've got a nice Garrett with a water-cooled turbine housing sitting here in my living room for challenge budget...

Actually, shipping might blow that challenge budget away

92CelicaHalfTrac wrote: I wouldn't run an HX/HY35 on any decent-sized V8... We spool those on our little 2.2 4-bangers pretty early... I still vote HX40 at a minimum. But on a Challenge budget, you get what you can get.

what size turbine housing are you using? Do you even know? If not how can you say it won't work? Come on man really.. There are about 30 different combinations of hx35 out there.. You can find 6cm housings out there as well, which would spool quickly on just about any engine.

The HX35-Hy35 would be a great choice for a small turbo on a low rpm running v8. Simple back of the hand if the turbo will work with a 2.5 liter engine up to 8krpms without surge you can get away with one on a v8 of 5 liters up to about 4krpms.

What HX40? There are hundreds of different combos out there?

Moparman wrote: In reply to PseudoSport: Two turbos present budget and packaging problems. The drivers side of a Shelby Dak is tight.

If you relocate the battery there's a bunch of space opened up on the driver's side.

Ignorant wrote:

92CelicaHalfTrac wrote: I wouldn't run an HX/HY35 on any decent-sized V8... We spool those on our little 2.2 4-bangers pretty early... I still vote HX40 at a minimum. But on a Challenge budget, you get what you can get.

what size turbine housing are you using? Do you even know? If not how can you say it won't work? Come on man really.. There are about 30 different combinations of hx35 out there.. You can find 6cm housings out there as well, which would spool quickly on just about any engine. The HX35-Hy35 would be a great choice for a small turbo on a low rpm running v8. Simple back of the hand if the turbo will work with a 2.5 liter engine up to 8krpms without surge you can get away with one on a v8 of 5 liters up to about 4krpms. What HX40? There are hundreds of different combos out there?

Got me there, forgot about all the combinations. I've always just run whichever ones i can find on Craigslist.

What Ignorant says, I <3 my HY35w (the w is for internally wastegated) 9cm turbine housing on the 2.3 Turbo Ford motor... I calculated at one point running a HX50ish on my Cadillac Northstar 4.6L V8 to 6850 RPM redline at 15psi no sweat, remotely mounted, though I was going to use a VGT version in order to alter my turbine housing size and dial it in for best response. That's one of the cooler things to consider if you're going to remote mount it, because getting your A/R right is important in a remote setup, proper sizing of a non-vgt would be better, lighter, smaller, less parts...

Moparman wrote: I think I am going to get the largest I can for my budget. Heck, if I push too much air I am just going to blow it up.

There are Chinese knock-offs of large frame Garretts on eBay, might be worth looking into.

Here you go!

Works out to $15/turbo.

http://www.govliquidation.com/auction/view?id=4189465&convertTo=USD

Rob_Mopar wrote:

Moparman wrote: In reply to PseudoSport: Two turbos present budget and packaging problems. The drivers side of a Shelby Dak is tight.

If you relocate the battery there's a bunch of space opened up on the driver's side.

Thought of that. I also may be able to get a used dry cell.

In reply to 92CelicaHalfTrac:

Wow!

92CelicaHalfTrac wrote: Here you go! Works out to $15/turbo. http://www.govliquidation.com/auction/view?id=4189465&convertTo=USD

GRM Group Buy?

Duece and a Half turbo. You're going to need a big and potent motor to move that sucker. Think HX55 or HX60.

I noticed the big nasty interesting flange...

Would it really be THAT bad, though? I know it only tells part of the story, but i have a bigger compressor inlet on my turbo, and those housings don't look THAT big.

Of course, i also can't see the wheels.

In reply to unevolved:

i'll take 2

Looks like it's a twin-scroll T6 turbine inlet:

Larger rectangular bolt pattern with 4.5" and 2.75" center to center bolt patterns.

http://www.himni-racing.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=81

I'm afraid that won't fit my Miata, I'm going to have to opt out.