1989 Nissan 240SX, 167,000 miles, 5 Speed, Single Cam, new tires, straight body (little bit of rust). Good clutch, no leaks, strong motor.
Interior is great with the exception of the HVAC controls are wacked. Heat/AC works, but only sends it to the defrost vents.
Needs brakes, an alignment...and I think that's it.
I put a down payment on it, but I won't lose much if I don't buy it.
$1500.
Am I spending too much?
I'd try to talk the guy down a little, but $1500 isn't unreasonable, especially considering the dorifto tax some guys tack onto S13s. S13s in my area easily go for $2000 or more, unless it's a complete basket case like my old S13. What do you plan to do with it?
Daily driver until a really good high MPG car comes up first.
I'm thinking suspension and wheels, exhaust, and tune for better/best MPG.
btw: he was already at $1900.
So far I've got a list of possible cars:
240SX Neon ACR Civic Wagon Another ZX2
An example:
Swap that single cam out. Fortunatly, thanks to the SR craze, Ka's are dirty CHEAP!
Though I've got to say, as an FC owner, I'm obligated to hate 240SXs.
Haha, I had an FC. Those triangles scurred me.
+1 on the KA24DE; peak numbers aren't that much better, but it's got a lot more meat under the curve.
Lots of drifters gut their cars, so finding the miscellaneous HVAC bits shouldn't be all too hard.
I'd go for it.
Well, I'm kinda sorta looking for reliability at this point, because it'll be my only car. Engine swaps and what not aren't being considered. I'm a college student, coming from a 30+MPG ZX2 with a tow-hitch on the back, that I hauled bikes around on. It often times used as a truck to haul tires back and forth to my garage. It worked as a car.
A 240 is not nearly as versatile. This is my first "real" sports car. In the past I've always dreamt of making my DD into something fun, but never about making a sport car something I could drive everyday. I'm sure a Miata would be no better than a 240 (in fact alot worse) but a 35mpg Neon ACR or Civic Si would certainly make much more sense.
I talked to my good friend about my dilemma, and he did nothing but talk me further into the 240.
I'm more or less looking at the ability to resell if I end up needing something economical, the ability to fix it cheaply, and being able to run a track event or auto-x...and maybe a drift event...
If the car is as good as u described, go for it .. The 'drifter market' have made the price of these S13 cars shoot up, , but that price seems reasonable enough. Beware of broken timing chain guide on that SOHC motor.. Good Luck and keep us posted 
Tune for best mpg? why not just drive like a grandma and down shift every down hill you come too? congrats on getting a 240, when you go to resell it post on your local ricers board, and use appropriate rice speak and you should make your money back.
You can't lose money on it, plus it's a sweet car. You'd be surprised just how good the mileage can be in one of those. I say good show!
You're paying a little bit of drift tax, but keeping that in mind that's a reasonable price for that car. You'll get the drift tax back when you sell.
I've got a set of NIB Tein S-Tech springs for an S-13 that are yours for the price of shipping if you pull the trigger on that car. I think I also have a never-been-used refurb of one of those wheels--same deal.
PHeller wrote:Haha, I had an FC. Those triangles scurred me.
I ain't afeard of no triangles! Hell, the engine on my FC has been the least problematic part on it.
PHeller wrote:Well, I'm kinda sorta looking for reliability at this point, because it'll be my only car.
Among the myriad other problems my '92 S13 coupe had, it had over 245K on the clock, a blown head gasket and piston ring, and overheated easily. It survived a year of me beating on it and only needed to be towed once when I spun it into a ditch. Trust me, it's reliable.
PHeller wrote:I'm a college student, coming from a 30+MPG ZX2 with a tow-hitch on the back, that I hauled bikes around on. It often times used as a truck to haul tires back and forth to my garage. It worked as a car.
The KA24E is a truck engine, after all. I think tow hitches are available for it. In terms of hauling your stuff around: Granted, it would be able to carry more stuff if it was a hatchback, but the rear seats in the coupe fold down, and I've seen a coupe and a convertible fitted with a luggage rack before (not sure if it's factory or aftermarket).
You guys aren't doing very well at talking me out of it.
Oh darn. Guess I'll have to buy then.
Wish I could get a CarFax though.
Dude, you're talking to the biggest bunch of automotive enablers on teh Interwebz. If it wasn't for these guys, I wouldn't have my FC!
PHeller wrote:Wish I could get a CarFax though.
A carfax on a 167K $1500 car? Why? What would it tell you that would change your mind? It already has rust, high miles, and is 10 years old. It is a $1500 beater, carfax would be a waste of money.
Datsun1500 wrote:PHeller wrote:Wish I could get a CarFax though.
A carfax on a 167K $1500 car? Why? What would it tell you that would change your mind? It already has rust, high miles, and is 10 years old. It is a $1500 beater, carfax would be a waste of money.
I treat every car like a $20,000 car.
Not really...but a carfax would be nice. A waste of money, but I wasn't planning on buying one either. Maybe talking a DMV into telling me some title background or something...
check the frame rails (under car near firewall and under seat) and the area where the firewall and wheel wells/frame rail meet inside the engine bay under the brake master cylinder. rust hides there. and never sleeps. it waits. just like chuck norris.
if its rusty there... dont even bother.
It is actually a little rusty below the master cylinder. Not so rusty that its weakening the frame, but rusty enough the paint is starting to turn etc.
While on that topic...I didn't really consider rust much of a problem...but apparently 240s are plagued by it. I've been driving pretty rust-free cars for 8 years now, so I didn't think to make a big deal out of the rust I did see.
I was concerned with the wheel wells, and there is no rust on them.
No rust below the doors, but I didn't check under the seat area carpet.
Rust below the master cylinder, but I think it just started, just has some discoloration of the paint in that area. No rust around strut towers or any other spot in the engine bay.
There was some rust on the spare tire well, creating some bubbling through to the area behind the rear license plate. Probably the only spot on the car where rust is visible from both sides. I think this is because the previous owner removed the spoiler and left the holes open.
Remember, I still don't have to buy the car if something serious shows its ugly head. That's why I asked you folks, so you'd tell me the areas where I need to be damn sure its sound.
Apparently I'll have to bug the kid and have him jack it up and get under to check out the frame.
The only spots showing rust on mine were the frame rail just above the muffler, the wheelwell/fender just in front of the rear wheels, and the area below the master cylinder. All of which you can see without jacking the car.
Mine spent it's whole life in central PA, land of road salt. The car looks solid and relatively unmolested. Go for it.
Absolutely check for rust. Mine had half the frame rails rotted away, the rocker panels rusted, the rear lisence plate holder rusted, and the spare tire well flooded.
I bought it.
The car had been rust proofed or whatever you want to call the rubberized undercoating that they throw on them.
Frame rails looked pretty good. It may have had rust, or the beginning of rust at one point, but the undercoating kept it from spreading. I was beating on the frame rails pretty hard with the flashlight I had and they seemed pretty sturdy.
As far as the spot below the master cylinder, it appeared to be only surface rust, and get tap with the flashlight confirmed this, no problems there.
Turns on the car did have a small dent behind the passenger wheels that looks the result of some drift damage, but pretty minor, if unnoticeable at night (i didn't notice it).
Now I need a set of door locks, because these don't match and the one side doesn't work.
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