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Oct. 20, 2011 5:27 p.m. peter Reader

When I put the engine back in my WRX, I had a small issue where the clutch pedal would not come back off the floor. No leaks at the slave, so we checked the master and it didn't seem to be pushing much fluid. Replaced it and after a good bleed, things seemed OK.

Ever since, the clutch action seems "slow": sitting at a stop light in neutral, I get a grind when I go to first unless I wait heartbeat from the time my foot hits the floor until I move the stick. It's shown up in a couple of other gear changes too.

I didn't get many miles with the car before replacing the motor (d'oh), but I can't think this is normal. Clutch fluid is full, no leaks at the slave.

What could this be? Clutch and pressure plate were new when the motor went in.
Oct. 20, 2011 5:32 p.m. 92CelicaHalfTrac SuperDork

Slaves can leak internally and screw stuff up without giving any outwards signs. Might be worth throwing another one in there, it's cheap and easy on that car, right?
Oct. 20, 2011 6:47 p.m. wbjones SuperDork

and a habit I got into YRS ago with my worn out E type was to push in clutch, pull gear lever into 2nd then forward into 1st... no grind/crunch... still have that habit to this day
Oct. 20, 2011 6:55 p.m. N Sperlo Dork

Make sure no part of the slave cylinder is wiggling around or busted. I can imagine that could cause a similar issue.
Oct. 20, 2011 8:14 p.m. peter Reader

I don't think the slave is loose in its mounts, if that's what you mean. If fluid isn't leaking past the slave piston, what could be wrong? I thought the slave was rather simple.

I've run my hand over the hard lines, they don't feel pinched or anything, but since I had to jack the trans up to get the engine in/out, it's a possibility. Would that cause this behavior?
Oct. 20, 2011 8:22 p.m. N Sperlo Dork

A pinched line, I think may also make the clutch petal feel "heavier." I'm not too sure of that. I assume you didn't disconnect the clutch line at any point...?
Oct. 20, 2011 8:40 p.m. N Sperlo Dork

Oh, no. A shoe canoe!
Oct. 20, 2011 8:48 p.m. peter Reader

If you're going to canoe in my thread, you'd better be referencing Monty Python.
Oct. 20, 2011 8:49 p.m. peter Reader

Only disconnected the clutch line to diagnose and replace the bad master. Thought I did a decent job bleeding it, maybe that's the issue?

Pedal doesn't feel particularly heavy.
Oct. 21, 2011 1:53 a.m. ValuePack Dork

The slave may still be the culprit. Had one go on my '02 TS that didn't leak a drop, but had degraded and gummed up internally until the piston was hung up and slow to move. 'Twas a $45 part and less than an hour to replace myself, if memory serves.

Barring that, the rubber hose from master to slave may have degraded as well, there's an ungodly amount of heat where it lives. Could be swelling when the pedal is depressed quickly, slowing the action of the clutch. I still get the occasional grind into first on mine when underhood temps are high, as well... The rubber feed hose is the only bit of the system I haven't yet replaced.

Best of luck!
Oct. 21, 2011 6:59 a.m. foxtrapper SuperDork

To me, it sounds like your pilot bearing is dragging.

Second would be suspicion that the clutch isn't being 100% disengaged. You don't have a spring connected to the throwout arm do you? Where it holds the throwout arm away from the throwout bearing, resulting in incomplete disengagement.
Oct. 21, 2011 7:04 a.m. RossD SuperDork

Bulge in the hose that slowly goes down after the initial pressure wave?
Oct. 21, 2011 8:11 a.m. N Sperlo Dork

May want to bleed the line a bit as it might simply have some air in the line. Makes a spring effect as you press the clutch and it would not disengage quickly.