I noticed in the budget that you had 2 aluminum seats for $40. Do you need both for challenge? If not, that's another $20 into the budget.
I noticed in the budget that you had 2 aluminum seats for $40. Do you need both for challenge? If not, that's another $20 into the budget.
In reply to sleepyhead:
Part of me says yes for cosmetics and fun runs. Part of me says no, its a freaking race car and doesn't need a passengers seat. But thats definitely an option uf we get tight. I still need to make a battery hold down to save 6 bucks as well.
Well for the event you can remove the second seat, and just add it back later for other stuff. Who wouldn't want to ride in this beast?
I really admire the work you guys have done, this is really amazing.
I can see about trying to suck the most recent update into the budget spreadsheet on theGoogle... maybe this weekend? Do you have an account, or would an excel/openoffice export be more functional (assuming I can get it done)?
I have open off ice AND excel, depending on which computer im at.
Thank you so much for the offer. Youre welcome to a fun run or two in Gainesville if there no failure and time.
I really appreciate it sleepyhead.
At the risk of sounding like an infomercial...If I am sanding anything, I have a Durablock in my hand.
Tons of tutorials on youtube that all explain the method of using sanding blocks.
So, i cant seem to pop the small chunks of steel that define the wheel lips out of my over fenders. They are really stuck. Why is this bad, other than weight?
The weight thing is largely concerning because of the added stress on your mounting points and having the fiberglass crack.
Other than that, depending on how they were cut out, someone might want to buy them for rust repair on another car.
I don't agree with the no DA palm sander idea. I wouldn't expect be able to do finish work with it but with amount of leveling you have to do I'd absolutely use it in concert with a 12-18" block.
Use the block to find your peaks then do the bulk of the work with the power tool checking periodically with a block.
In this instance, I'd focus on getting the lines smooth/straight, then work on blending the lines together.
You're probably going to have more sag in the middle than you want, so don't chase the middle to smooth until you know where it needs to be.
I managed to get the chunks out with a bit of heat and putty knife. Was afraid of breaking the overfenders. But they are now rpugh trimmed, somewhat smooth and purely bolt on overfenders. Wife and i are going to temporarily mount them and finish trimming them tomorrow. Art said im close enough to do a very thin skim of body filler and block them. He offered to show/do/help. Im supposed to go over to his shop monday.
Dusterbd13 wrote: He offered to show/do/help. Im supposed to go over to his shop monday.
Is that in the budget, don't you have to pay labor rates for work done in a professional shop?
His shop at home. He does nicer stuff on weekends, like streetrods and such. Im bringing my own body filler, and a roll of 80 gris self adhesive sandpaper for his air file.
Not going to let him do them for me, even though he offered. Im just going to use his tools and learn. I need to learn. I also need to save up for proper body tools at some point, though he was impressed on how far ive gotten by the advice from this forum and sheer guesswork.
| thumbs up |
just trying to keep you in the clear 
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Dusterbd13 wrote:2 dog [leashes] 1.98
I'm curious, were these a real "bitch" to find? This about where I'm at with the spreadsheet, although there's a lot of holes of where you got things... and either I need to go hunt through the thread for some details, or you'll need to add them. TBD.
Dollar tree dog leashes. 99 cents each.
I probably remember source for most stuff, and if i dont i can wade through the last 28 pages to find it. Usually on big parts/used parts i will take a picture, note source and price in a post. So hopefully thats the saving grace.
And thank you. Both for spreadsheet help, and keeping me honest. I try to be honest as humanly possible.
So, this is the update I used to suck into the spreadsheet (last one I saw, back on page 28)...
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Dusterbd13 wrote:Challenge Budget: Car/parts $200
Donor Lincoln town car: 410
Engine crossmember: 120
Sold transmission crossmember from Lincoln: 10 Sold rear axle from lincoln: -50 Scrapped what was left of lincoln: -89
Sold AOD from lincoln (300, but can only recoup 261)
Engine swap: 5.0 plus 300 boot
Sold kelstar wheels-200 (cant recoup more than we spent)
2x2 angle iron, tractor supply 12.05
Brand new Watkins glen nascar slicks and wheels, which were bought for $50, and promptly sold to Dallas dad for $50 and some weld wheels with really old drag slicks. So, slicks were $0, but $50 taken out of the recoup limit.
4 5/8 heim and jamb nuts: $37.50
Pair of aluminum seats, $40
Sheet of flame retardant high density foam $10
Fire suppression system parts (not included in challenge budget. But ive had 2nd degree burns on the boys before, so were getting safety gear come hell or high water)
1/4 plate, scrap metal yard: 7.50
Mustang convertible mounts 22
Bending plate cost 25
Swedged tubing, ebay: 31.90
Threaded adjusters and 650lb springs, SRI performance: 65
2 used billstein shocks, pull-a-part: 14
Cage materials: 271.40
1/2 Spool welding wire: 16.50
Leaf spring sliders: 40
Clamps for spring adjusters: 23.59
Adjustable brake bias valve 18 (amazon)
2 cans of flat black spray paint (lowes project source) .97 ea
Half melted, used 21 circuit ez wiring harness cut from my duster after the mice chewed it up and it had a meltdown. $5 is what I was quoted as FMV due to the fact that copper prices are down.
Accessories and flexplate: see link in update
Battery cables and relays, pull-a-part: 12.75
Steering box, pull-a-part: 27.50
25feet 3/8 steel fuel line, ebay: 25.75
Bypass fuel pressure regulator, ebay: 29.23
Used, noisy, and mostly dead fuel pump: 6.50
Used mix and match nitrous kit: 32
Two half cans of ford engine blue $7
3/8 plastic line clamps, lowes: 1.78
1/2 metal line clamps, lowes: 3.48
Throttle return springs and brackets: 5
3/8 2x compression fittings, 3x npt-compression, 1x t fitting from plumbing supply house: 6
battery hold down, oriellys 5.99
2x 36 inch 1x1 holey tube: 2
Driveshaft safety loop (dad bought it at an auction last week) 5
Tractor supply run for bolts and angle iron: 18.08
Wheels for monster slicks: 50 from facebook marketplace
Lower radiator hose: 14.82
Oil filter: 4.17
Bucket of hose clamps (pull-a-part doesn't charge for these, so I added the admission charge to the yard): 1
Scrap chunk of 16gauge sheetmetal: .25
Suspension, driveshaft, and 3.73 posi 8.8, offerup: 100
Traded ultralights and sun tach for pro-tach, mechanical 2 5/8 gauges and chunk of diamond plate from a 4x4 buggy guy down the street
Rear brake hose: Challenge budget exempt
Spark plug boot insulators, ebay, 11
Spring perches, amazon 17.49
Pipe standoffs (5) and 3/8 allthread, rhulens supply 8.22
Chunk of diamond plate dad scrounged it somewhere, and said he got got for free.
Misc crap (zipties, sheet metal screws, wiring terminals, used toggles, nuts and bolts, etc. Pretty much the little oddball crap that goes into every build that I had laying around from over the years) 50
Starter solenoid: 7.90
2 inch glasspacks, chunks of 2 inch exhaust tubing, and a little bit of stainless 2 inch: steves buddy: 15
Tow hook: 3
Steering wheel from swap meet 5
Quick release, ebay: 19.99
Manual trans: 50
Flywheel: 45
2 dog leases 1.98
2 u joint straps 5.99
Clutch kit, clutch master, clutch slave: 107.13 shipped
Power steering hose: 15.99
3/8 coupler: 2.50
Welding: 5
Alternator plugs: 2
Starter: 34.39
ARP pressure plate bolts: 12:50 bradley auto parts
Shocks from scrap metal pile: 5
Hood pins: 7.50. Ebay
Hoosier f40 scrubs (budget exempt, byt I bought 16 with a max of 13 laps for 15 each!!!)
Hydraulic clutch line: 25 from the local tow company
3 inch blocks: 25.89
Trans seal: 4.50
Secret weapon: 100
T-shirt material. Bought 5 yards, but the number will change when I see how much I have leftover: 5.98 a yard for a total of 30.90. Used 2 yards. So, 11.96
3/4 gallon of bondo brand fiberglass resin my sister in law was donated at the school and couldn't use. Very old, and possibly expired. $free
1/2 gallon of new resin: 27.99 at walmart for full gallon, 13.99 to the budget
Gsllon of bondo: 18.99 on sale at napa
30 foot by 50 inch Roll of fibrglass mat: 39.98 but only used 13 feet (rounded up) 17.32
New challenge budget total: 1922.41
I've got it all sucked in, but haven't cross-checked that I've got all the numbers correct yet. A couple things that'd be easy to help is what the actual sale price of the kelstar's was (spreadsheet "automajically" limits recoup.
My numbers aren't adding up, yet... but I'm going to sleep on it and then nit-pick things a bit, see if there's any fat-fingering I've done (has happened before). But it'd be helpful if you eyed the list above too, see if you see anything that's been discussed for removal which isn't yet.
Kelstars tha t came with the car sold for 400. We got 20 for the stock rear axle, and 75 for the stock 14s.
The list looks right. Were probably going to run circle track slicks on the strip instead of the old wrinkle walls i traded for. So that whole chunk can come out.
Thank you so much for the help. You have no idea how much i appreciate it.
My wife has now helped far more than she wanted to. We've spent the last hour finalizing the cut lines and shape of the overfenders. Not exactly what i started out to make, but good nonetheless. I need to find an old big rig mudflap now.
Dusterbd13 wrote: My wife has now helped far more than she wanted to. We've spent the last hour finalizing the cut lines and shape of the overfenders. Not exactly what i started out to make, but good nonetheless. I need to find an old big rig mudflap now.
That moment when you realize someone has probably taken your advice... which you think is true/right, but is largely theoretical... and now you really hope you haven't |cough| steered them wrong. 
also, PM on the way
An air file and block make an amazing difference.
Dude you got this. Sounds like you're past the doubting yourself part anyways but this thing is legendary.
I don't think I could build this car on 5 times the budget. Very impressed, especially for starting with an oddball platform for a racecar.
Keep up the good work!
In reply to Gunchsta:
Im past the doubt. But only because sleepyhead and stafford1500 helping with the spreadsheet, and everyone encouraging me. I really appreciate it.
And dont doubt what you can do. You only fail when you dont try.
Dusterbd13 wrote: An air file and block make an amazing difference.
Yes they do.
Dusterbd13 wrote: And dont doubt what you can do. You only fail when you dont try.
This seems worth quoting.
Glad you're past the doubt, I'm excited to see how the finished flares look!
Gunchsta wrote:Dusterbd13 wrote: And dont doubt what you can do. You only fail when you dont try.This seems worth quoting. Glad you're past the doubt, I'm excited to see how the finished flares look!
So am I!
Nick (Bo) Comstock wrote:Dusterbd13 wrote: An air file and block make an amazing difference.Yes they do.
Between you and nohome sharing, and art showing, and me doing, it really made a shocking difference quickly.
Thank you for the education.
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