Spitfire tie rod end., help: Grassroots Motorsports forum: Grassroots Motorsports Magazine

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May 17, 2011 4:18 p.m. triumph5 Dork

Getting the '79 Spitfire ready for sale, and decided to replace the tie rod ends. 46k, so I assume these are OE. Jack up front end, remove bottom bolt from the tie rod end--and nothing, Used a proper size pickle fork, still won't come out; put nut back on and hit with BFH, and nothing. Stuck. I've thought of cutting it apart; I don't really want to use heat--with the proximity of the upper ball joint and the caliper.

What am I missing? Suggestions?

EDIT: Steering is fine, no binding, I'm doing this simply because I have the parts, and it's one less thing for a buyer to nitpick.
May 17, 2011 4:25 p.m. GrantMLS New Reader

welcome to my world... I ussally cut them off..
May 17, 2011 4:27 p.m. pigeon Dork

A bit of penetrating liquid (PB Blaster) to the socket where the tie rod sits in the knuckle. Then use two BFHs - one held firmly on one side of the knuckle and the other to apply a firm impulse to the knuckle opposite BFH one. The theory at least is it will ever so slightly deform the knuckle and allow the tie rod end to pop free. I've had reasonable success with that method.
May 17, 2011 4:55 p.m. triumph5 Dork

GrantMLS wrote:

welcome to my world... I ussally cut them off..

One cut using a cutoff wheel to the vertical "bolt" portion of the rod end? Has the "remaining portion" ever then need to be drilled out? Or does it all kinda fall apart once the bolt is cut--although with no stress on the bolt, there's no real change in the dynamics of holding the tie rod in place, so......
May 17, 2011 5:01 p.m. triumph5 Dork

pigeon wrote:

A bit of penetrating liquid (PB Blaster) to the socket where the tie rod sits in the knuckle. Then use two BFHs - one held firmly on one side of the knuckle and the other to apply a firm impulse to the knuckle opposite BFH one. The theory at least is it will ever so slightly deform the knuckle and allow the tie rod end to pop free. I've had reasonable success with that method.

"reasonable"? Have you ever broken a knuckle doing this? Minie look good, no apparent cracks or bend marks. Almost sounds like setting up a type of heavy duty harmonic vibration, to pop the tie rod end free.
May 17, 2011 5:04 p.m. mith612 Reader

pigeon wrote:

A bit of penetrating liquid (PB Blaster) to the socket where the tie rod sits in the knuckle. Then use two BFHs - one held firmly on one side of the knuckle and the other to apply a firm impulse to the knuckle opposite BFH one. The theory at least is it will ever so slightly deform the knuckle and allow the tie rod end to pop free. I've had reasonable success with that method.

That's pretty much SOP around here (Maine) when it comes to ball joints. Usually with a pretty big sledge too, and no knuckle has never broken from it in my shop.
May 17, 2011 6:34 p.m. JohnyHachi6 New Reader

Yeah when I 1st got in to racing in upstate NY we would always have tie-rod ends stick in the knuckles on older cars. A sledge hammer works wonders and I've never broken or bent anything, but be a little careful with the tie rod (the rod itself), if you haven't already detached it. I think backing off the nut on the rod end and pounding on that is a good way to go - it can take some time though, keep pounding! In really extreme cases we would break out a torch and heat up the knuckle where the ball joint end goes through, then pound some more.
May 17, 2011 7:15 p.m. Curmudgeon SuperDork

The 'two hammers to deform the hole' method has never failed for me. You might, if it's rusty, need to soak it first then use two BIG hammers (I have a pair of drilling hammers for the real tough stuff). Once, I had to have a bud apply upward pressure on the stud with a pry bar while I wailed on it. You might give that a shot.
May 17, 2011 7:16 p.m. JoeTR6 New Reader

I've used a method similar to Pigeon's on TR6 tie rod ends. First, PB Blaster and wait a few. If I'm not reusing the part, I'll apply a little heat to the end of the steering arm (but not enough to temper the metal), give it a tap with a 5 lb. hammer, apply a little more heat, give it a tap, etc. It usually pops loose after a few hits. I start soft and work my way up in force, but never swing very hard.
May 17, 2011 7:20 p.m. TRoglodyte Reader

Air hammer? Oops sorry, Airchisel .
May 18, 2011 8:03 a.m. triumph5 Dork

Thanks to all for your input. I never thought this would be such a PITA to take care of; so often it's the little things... The air hammer usage crossed my mind as I read this, I'll try the hammer and heat route, and if that doesn't work, out comes the cutting wheels. Again, thanks for the input. It's killing me to have to sell this car, so much fun, very theraputic, but, life has gotten thrown me a U-turn. Oh, welll.