Steel gas line broke off in fitting how to get it out.: Grassroots Motorsports forum: Grassroots Motorsports Magazine

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Jan. 1, 2012 2:49 p.m. dean1484 SuperDork

I was changing the gas tank on the mustang today and the steel lines from the in tank pump snapped off flush with the fitting on the flex line. For those that don't know these are the type of line that required a tool be slid into the end of the flex line fitting to release the tangs so you can slide the flex line off the steel line.

Obviously I will be getting a new fuel pump (it is a while you are there item anyway) but how do I get the stubs of the steel line out of the flex line? Heat is not an answer.. .. . Well it is an answer if I really don't want the car any more . I have them in PB Blaster at the moment. I was thinking of seeing if I can screw something in to the line and then use that to pull the tube out with the release tool in place. The real issue is that the steel line seems to be welded / rusted to the inside of the flex line.

I guess another option is to replace the lines but that is probably a dealer part with a dealer price.

Anyone got any idea's?
Jan. 1, 2012 4:06 p.m. Streetwiseguy Dork

If I'm reading right, the end of your tank unit is stuck in the line on the car, and its still got the retainer spring holding it in, correct?

If so, I would approach it in two steps. First, I would work at getting the stub to rotate in the fitting, so penetrating oil, and a self tapping screw just the right size should work. The screw needs to bite, but not stretch the tube too much. Once its rotating, it should come out using the compressing tool and a pair of pliers.
Jan. 1, 2012 5:10 p.m. erohslc HalfDork

Yeah, maybe a glob of fast setting epoxy putty on the threaded end of the largest diameter bolt that will fit inside the tube, 2-3" long.
The bolt head gives you something to grab and rotate/pull.
Jan. 1, 2012 5:36 p.m. dean1484 SuperDork

@ Streetwiseguy: Yes you are correct those are the lines. I was thinking of trying an easy out in the line. I was actually thinking that if I put the release tool in place and then insert the easy out. If it flairs a bit it will wedge against the release tool thus preventing it from over flaring and the tool has a handle that will give me some leverage to try and brake it free if it wedges against it. Otherwise I can work the end of the easy out with small wrench. Once free it should then just pull out.. .. . . Why does it all sound so easy

Plan B is to see where the flex lines meet the steel lines. Cut the steel lines and flair them and put fuel hose designed for EFI systems on clamp it in place and then run those up to the top of the tank. Not an elegant solution but simple and doable. No matter what I have to get this done tomorrow as it is the last day in the 40's around here we are going in to the 20's for the next week or so.
Jan. 1, 2012 8:38 p.m. 93gsxturbo HalfDork

I think you are going to be running flex lines.

If you don't have the plastic release tools, get those. They work super good compared to the metal ones and cost less as well. I like the epoxied in bolt idea but if its in the 40s, the glue wont cure. You are going to need to get a self tapping screw in there, or use a regular tap and see if you can get some threads on the pipe then thread a bolt onto it.

Russell makes AN to push connect adapters, and Mastercool makes a DIY flaring set to make push connectors, just in case you decide to get really serious on your repair.
Jan. 1, 2012 8:55 p.m. curtis73 SuperDork

You might be surprised at how inexpensive the dealer is on many things. After spending 7 years running repair shops, I often hit the dealer first for Ford stuff.

I recently replaced the fuel filler hose (from the neck to the tank) on my E350. Buying generic 2" fuel filler hose from O'Reilly's with two new clamps was going to be $28. Buying the correct molded hose from Ford (which comes with clamps) was $21 wholesale... which is 20% off list price.
Jan. 2, 2012 9:26 a.m. dean1484 SuperDork

Well the update is.

I got the steel line out of the supply side. PB Blaster over night got it free and I was able to pull it out with my smallest pair of needle nose pliers.

However the return line is a whole different problem. It seems to be really stuck. At this point I will probably just cut the flex line and install a barbed fuel line splice piece. I will then add on a bit of EFI fuel line and use a good old hose clamp to attach it to the flaired fitting on the tank / pump.

Since my wife is using the other car at the moment I have all morning to fiddle with this line. Once she gets back I am going to the parts store and get serious about getting this project done.
Jan. 2, 2012 10:41 a.m. curtis73 SuperDork

Sounds like a good plan to me. GRM engineering
Jan. 2, 2012 3:12 p.m. Travis_K SuperDork

Make sure you use a proper efi hose clamp. Worm gear clamps aren't acceptable for use with efi line.
Jan. 2, 2012 7:10 p.m. dean1484 SuperDork

I actually found in the help section replacement ends for the flex lines that connect to the in tank pump. I cut the braided steel flex line. In it was a standard plastic EFI line. So I got a barbed EFI line splice kit and used the double ended barbed splice fitting. Heated the line and the double ended brass barbed splice piece and inserted it in to the fuel line. I added a hose clamp for good measure. I then put a 3 inch piece of EFI hose on the other end of the splice connector and connect it to the new end piece I got from the help stuff.

I am not worried about using standard hose clamps as it is the return line and it only sees 6-7 psi max. No more than a standard carbureted fuel system.

BTW having a 1800 deg industrial PVC thermal welding gun to use to heat up the EFI line and the Brass connector worked like a charm. I have tried the soak it in hot watter for 10 minutes as the directions say to do on previous repairs and it almost never works correctly. As soon as you insert the brass connector it cools the plastic so fast that you can not get it fully inserted in the line.