Any insights on how to handle large tapered balljoints that are very stuck without using heat?
Car in question is a 85 e30 and the job in question is the front lower control arms.
I have various small hammers, floor jack, various hand tools and also an air hammer I just bought. Only issue is that it only has a chisel attachment...
Used to have a pickle fork but it has gown legs and walked off on me apparently.
find a hammer that is the thickness of the casting it is stuck in then with a quick sharp blow hit the side of the casting yes the side don't try to hit in the direction of the stud. do this twice then hit in-line it should pop right out.
DILYSI Dave wrote:http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-point-joint-separator-99...
+1
Load that up with a bunch of force and then if it is still resisting - whack it with a hammer while under load and it will pop.
I just saw this air hammer attachment used for rattling loose tie rod ends posted on another forum: http://www.tooltopia.com/lisle-54640.aspx
This thread has introduced me to two more tools i need. 
Pickle fork + BFH always worked for me.
Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote:DILYSI Dave wrote:http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-point-joint-separator-99...
+1
Load that up with a bunch of force and then if it is still resisting - whack it with a hammer while under load and it will pop.
+1 the +1. I love that tool. When I got that tool, my day improved tremendously.
I've always used the 44Dwarf method, or a slight variation in which i just pound directly on the knuckle. be sure to leave the nut on the tapered stud during the pounding if you're going to reuse the ball joint. you can guess how i learned that lesson.
oh, my BFH of choice is a 4# sledge on a 4' handle. i use my right hand as a pivot in the center of the handle and pull with the left.
Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote:+15.99DILYSI Dave wrote:http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-point-joint-separator-99...
+1
Load that up with a bunch of force and then if it is still resisting - whack it with a hammer while under load and it will pop.
That thing has allowed me to separate Subaru BJ's without screwing the boot.
I always used the BFH method until I had one that just would not move. So I broke down and bought the tool. It works so well, I've never BFH'd again.
I ended up finding my pickle fork and using a BFH and lots of jumping and swearing. They both popped, but next time I will snag that tool. God I wish we had a HF near by... closest one is 2+ hrs away.
Hocrest wrote:Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote:+15.99DILYSI Dave wrote:http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-point-joint-separator-99...
+1
Load that up with a bunch of force and then if it is still resisting - whack it with a hammer while under load and it will pop.
That thing has allowed me to separate Subaru BJ's without screwing the boot.
+1x4.0 or reinstall the balljoint nut halfway and hit it at an angle... and heehee you said bj
DILYSI Dave wrote:http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-point-joint-separator-99...
Fifteen bux? I think my pickle fork just became my new hammer.
friedgreencorrado wrote:DILYSI Dave wrote:http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-point-joint-separator-99...
Fifteen bux? I think my pickle fork just became my new hammer.
I got it for $6.99 at HF. They are $15 at NAPA though.
The 44dwarf/Angry Corvair method has worked for me every time.
Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote: I got it for $6.99 at HF. They are $15 at NAPA though.
Pickle fork or tie rod puller for $15 at NAPA?
I've had good luck w/the HF tool. Sometimes on it's own, sometimes by preloading the tapered joint and hammering the spindle, sometimes by preloading the joint, and then building a clay dam and filling it with penetrant overnight (my favorite - feels like a magic trick).
The only thing i have to add here is you need to be using a 4lb hammer for this kind of job.. a 2 or 3 lb just increases the chance of you hurting yourself because you have to swing it so much harder. I think there's a diminishing rate of returns after 4lb because the heads get too big to swing in confined spaces.
The funky HF tool is also available at NAPA as stated before more expensive as stated previously and it works on almost everything. Although I cannot find it on their website right now but, there is also a puller like this one available in several sizes that I have used with great success.
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=BK_7759097_0006508424
and
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=BK_7769097_0006508424
