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  • psteav

    April 21, 2010 2:50 p.m. psteav Reader

    So my girlfriend's '05 Taurus was recently sideswiped and totaled while it was parked and unoccupied. Some of you may remember that I recently posted asking for recommendations as to a replacement car. I'm kicking around the idea of replacing her Taurus with...another Taurus.

    As I said in my earlier post, she's not a gearhead nor can she drive a stick. The insurance company is lowballing us on replacement value (I'm currently slugging that out with them). She's decided that rather get into debt by financing something, she wants to spend ~$2k on something older but still reliable. She just spent $2k less than 3000 miles ago on rebuilding the trans in her Taurus.

    My idea is to buy the wreck back for salvage value, ($675) pull the trans that has been recently rebuilt, pull the 3.0 Vulcan boat anchor and sell it for whatever I can get, then find a nice Taurus or Sable with a blown trans that I can buy for cheap. I'm hoping to find one with the DOHC 3.0 Duratec, which is pretty spunky from what I understand.

    My questions on this:

    1) Is the transmission the same between the Vulcan and Duratec cars? If it's not, what's different and how hard is it to change?

    2) How difficult is pulling the trans on a Taurus? I've pulled the transmission on FWD transverse cars before. It's never fun, but I can think of worse jobs. Is this one easier or more difficult than average? Any tips or tricks to make it go smoother?

    3) What are the reliability concerns with the Duratec? I plan on doing basic maintenance (t-belt/water pump/etc., etc.) while I'm in there. Are they basically reliable? Prone to failure after indifferent maintenance?

    4) Is there a real-world fuel economy difference between the two? fueleconomy.gov says they're just about the same.

  • 16vCorey

    April 21, 2010 2:58 p.m. 16vCorey SuperDork

    1) No. The bell housing is different. Different starter location, etc. Just not going to happen.

    2) They kinda suck. The '01-up cars are a little easier since the exhaust comes apart in an easier way. The ball joints are usually a total bear to separate. Other than that, it's just bolts, but it kinda sucks.

    3) The Duratec seems to be a pretty reliable engine. 2005 was the last year for the Duratec, FYI.

    4) I don't know.

  • psteav

    April 21, 2010 3:03 p.m. psteav Reader

    So the bellhousing is integral to the trans? The car is at the insurance company's shop right now, so I can't just poke my head under and look. I'd have to have both cars pretty much completely apart anyways, so if if can be done without swapping internal parts, I'm game.

    If it can't be done, I guess there's probably no shortage of Vulcan-powered Tauruses with blown transmissions. Although that extra 50hp would have been nice...

  • April 21, 2010 3:09 p.m. 93gsxturbo Reader

    The duratec is a real sweetheart of an engine, when you consider that you can pay $500 for a running, driving car with one in it. Smooth and lots of power for what it is. Thirsty, though. And maintenance costs are significantly higher than a Vulcan.

    The trans is definitely different between the two engines, and odd year-to-year changes mean that you want to try to get a car that is as close as you can to the same model year.

    That being said, the price of a running/driving Taurus of that vintage is no different than one with transmission problems, so you might as well get a runner to get her back on her feet and put the trans you have under the workbench for a rainy day. Its not a super duper fun swap without a hoist, as the whole engine cradle has to come down, as I recall.

  • 16vCorey

    April 21, 2010 3:19 p.m. 16vCorey SuperDork

    93gsxturbo wrote:

    Its not a super duper fun swap without a hoist, as the whole engine cradle has to come down, as I recall.

    Yep, it does. Here's a little tip though, if you decide to swap one and you're by yourself. Brace the engine on the top, and when you go to drop the engine cradle, only separate the driver's side ball joint. That way when you unbolt everything and drop the cradle, you can just rotate the entire cradle out of your way and let it hang by the ball joint. And when you need to bolt it back up, just spin it back into place and you won't need an extra hand holding it up while you put some bolts in it.

 
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